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Old 01-09-2018, 12:51 AM   #85
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: gangcouver

I used software to do a site rip of the whole site a few years ago. From what I can tell I have most of the html stuff, and a few more things that i found elsewhere i think. Zip files of wiring diagrams for 200, 700, 900, Amazon and more.
It is a lot of info. I am going through what i see you have and comparing my info. My folder is over 7 gigs. I also have a copy of vadis somewhere. It is really the html i don't know if you have right now, because many of the pages are full of info not in the greenbooks. IE:

Mechanical Fuel Injection Power!
K-Jet Debugging Guide

There are a lot of different things that can go wrong with a mechanical fuel injection system. I will try to cover the most common symptoms and their usual suspects. I have included some basic info for testing things common to all cars (like the throttle body sticking) but this mainly covers K-Jet related problems. This is not intended to be a full course in fixing cars in general, so Iím not going to cover how to check your spark plugs or distributor cap and rotor or reset your timing belt.

Note: READ THE CI GREENBOOKS. Also, please refer to the K-Jet in Detail article for diagrams and descriptions of the K-Jet components.

Note: If you have not replaced your engine wiring harness (1980 to 1987 cars) replace it first. It can cause a lot of problems on its own. Due to the random nature of wire breakdown, the problems associated with a bad wiring harness can take almost any form. If you want to do it on the cheap, read this article.
Difficulty starting engine warm or cold

1) Vacuum leaks
2) Other air leaks
3) Airflow sensor plate out of adjustment or sticking
4) Fuel distributor clogged
5) Low fuel pressure (line pressure)
. a) bad fuses or fuse block
. b) bad fuel pump relay
. c) bad fuel pump check valve
. d) clogged fuel filter
. e) bad fuel pump
. f) out of gas
. g) line pressure regulator out of adjustment
Difficulty Starting Engine Only When Cold

1) Control pressure too high
2) Auxiliary air valve or idle air motor not working or sticking
3) Problem with cold start injector / thermal time switch circuit
Difficulty Starting Engine Only When Warm

1) Cold start injector stuck open or leaking
2) Control pressure too high or too low
3) Regular fuel injectors leaking
4) Wrong rest pressure
Idle fluctuates or Ďhunts,í surging in gears 1-4, abnormally high idle

1) Idle air motor not working properly
2) Throttle plate improperly adjusted
3) Bad wiring to CIS Computer
4) Vacuum leaks
Random no-start, or will not start unless left in Key Position II for a few minutes

1) Wiring problem at ballast resistor
2) Wiring problem at starter or coil
Difficulty starting engine warm or cold

If you turn the key and NOTHING happens, you probably have a dead battery or the wires that connect to the starter solenoid are disconnected. However, if you turn the key and the starter motor engages and the engine turns over but just wonít start, here are some common causes of this:

1) Vacuum leaks: The K-Jet system is very sensitive to vacuum leaks. It is dependent on vacuum lines due to the mechanical nature of the system. Unlike some EFI systems, K-Jet cannot compensate for vacuum leaks. If there are air leaks in the system, more air is getting to the engine than is being measured by the air flow sensor plate. Because of this the air/fuel mixture is lean meaning that there is too much air in the mixture. Vacuum leaks can also cause abnormally high idle problems, as well as many other weird symptoms.

The easiest way to check for vacuum leaks is to look. Check out your vacuum hoses. Are they all connected? Are any cracked or broken? Are they hooked up like the diagram under the hood shows (Vacuum hose routing sticker)?

Vacuum hose is cheap so itís a good idea to just replace all the lines when you get your Volvo. Major vacuum lines, like those coming from the idle air motor, the auxiliary air valve, or the brake booster, will make a loud POP! the first time they come off, and after that the car wonít start at all.

Tips for preventing vacuum leaks:

Always keep your vacuum lines in good condition.
Use the right size of vacuum lines (metric!).
When you replace them, use small hose clamps or cable ties to make sure that they are tight and donít pop off.
Use quality (OEM Volvo) gaskets (intake manifold, throttle body).

2) Other air leaks: If you can actually get the car running, but it runs rough or has trouble starting, you can check for air leaks at the intake manifold gasket (where the intake manifold attaches to the head) or at the throttle body gasket (where the throttle body attaches to the intake manifold) or at the injector seals (where the fuel injectors are inserted into the engine.)

Check for air leaks at these places by spraying a flammable solvent (such as WD-40 or carb cleaner) around the gasket or seals. If the idle of the car speeds up, it means the engine just sucked in that flammable solvent through an air leak.

To fix these problems, you probably need a new gasket or new injector O-Rings. These are also inexpensive parts, even from the Volvo dealer.

3) Airflow sensor plate out of adjustment or sticking: This is a very unlikely scenario, but it can happen. Basically, you have to take your fuel distributor and air flow sensor apart and re-calibrate it. Like I said, very unlikely that this would happen.

4) Fuel distributor clogged: Again, this is an unlikely scenario, but it can happen. Mostly it is caused by some contaminant in the fuel caused by a low quality fuel filter or by someone putting sugar in your gas tank. Anyway, fixing this requires dismantling the fuel distributor and cleaning it all out with carb cleaner or the like.

5) Low fuel pressure (line pressure): Low line pressure means that not enough fuel is making it to your fuel distributor. This could be caused by many different things, which I will go over in detail.

a) bad fuses or fuse block
Believe it or not, bad fuses account for a large number of K-Jet no-start conditions. The main fuel pump and the in-tank fuel pump are fused and if one of these two fuses is blown or poorly connected, your fuel pump wonít work. The best way to remedy this is preventative maintenance. Your fuse panel is located behind a plastic panel to the left of the driverís left leg, below the steering wheel and in front of the driverís seat.

With the battery disconnected (so you donít kill yourself) remove all the fuses in the fuse block and scrub all of the terminals with a wire brush. You can get a wire brush about the size of a toothbrush that is perfect for this at any hardware store for about $1. Once all the terminals are clean, put the fuses back in with the right amperage ratings in the right spots. Replace any fuses that are corroded or burnt.
That is just a section of the page.
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