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"Boat", the 1992 240 Wagon

More OHV park this weekend. This time with extra spring boosters in the front and 20" eibach springs in the rear

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New height:

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I'm so happy with this articulation. Ben's sphericals & johnny joint torque rods make it so easy. Rear bar delete is essential for this kind of stuff. Still comfy on the road though.

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Wow Ian!
Extreme articulation!
For a Volvo ;-)

Running the LLV Mail truck 195/75R15 Wranglers?

195/75R14
Yes sir! Expensive little bastards
I got them from someone who bought them at government auction, so half price for me.
As the LLV gets phased out though, they'll probably stop being produced :-(
Gotta grab a spare set to hoard. I love them. Surprisingly quiet on the highway, super deep tread, and the 5th wheel spare still fits in the OE spare tire compartment.
 
You continue to amaze! That looks extremely capable. Judging by the rest of this thread, I'm able to take your word for it's street manners as well. :rockon:

I took Moose camping over the weekend as well. I really want to steal your canopy idea. lol
 
For a Volvo ;-)



195/75R14
Yes sir! Expensive little bastards
I got them from someone who bought them at government auction, so half price for me.
As the LLV gets phased out though, they'll probably stop being produced :-(
Gotta grab a spare set to hoard. I love them. Surprisingly quiet on the highway, super deep tread, and the 5th wheel spare still fits in the OE spare tire compartment.

I used to run them, the set I had were recaps, and one separated as recaps do...
 
You continue to amaze! That looks extremely capable. Judging by the rest of this thread, I'm able to take your word for it's street manners as well. :rockon:

I took Moose camping over the weekend as well. I really want to steal your canopy idea. lol

Thanks. You should, the canopy is a perfect addition to the camping brick. 8.2' x 8.2' ARB canopy. About $300 new.

I used to run them, the set I had were recaps, and one separated as recaps do...

Glad I didn't go with the recaps. That was the conclusion that my research led to, that they would probably separate.
 
Video of the shenanigans:

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It's pretty tame stuff for the most part... not trying to thrash my car. I was also avoiding the water because they said some of the areas were deep, and I didn't want to have to summon anyone to pull me out, due to COVID & all...

Overall, I'm just impressed that a little swedish station wagon can be so capable, all things considered
 
Any plans for the rear valence? On a '89 245 I used to have, I deleted it and the attached rubber mudflaps (cut out of truck flaps) to the fender lip itself. I put a bit of color matched tape over the hole left in the butt cheek area. Looked alright. I'm thinking of doing something similar again, but using black matte vinyl to wrap the area where the valence was, or filling the hole and painting the area black or grey to match the lower door cladding.

Too bad those tires are so expensive, I want a set... Your's look real good with those steelies.
 
Any plans for the rear valence? On a '89 245 I used to have, I deleted it and the attached rubber mudflaps (cut out of truck flaps) to the fender lip itself. I put a bit of color matched tape over the hole left in the butt cheek area. Looked alright. I'm thinking of doing something similar again, but using black matte vinyl to wrap the area where the valence was, or filling the hole and painting the area black or grey to match the lower door cladding.

I like the rear valence. I do want to scuff & paint it with some SEM exterior trim paint though. The faded grey is getting old.

I am considering custom mudflaps though. The volvo ones are pretty tiny. Love the way they look. I had a similar thought about a universal mudflap kit, & cut to fit. I'd probably still mount them in the stock location though.

As for the exposed rear fender lip that is normally covered by the plastic mud guard, I'm thinking about putting a black vinyl wrap just on the little section, to protect it & to aesthetically blend it better.

Now the front valence, I have been day dreaming a bit about rework. I'm not sure what it needs. But it is scraping at the OHV park, so that needs to be addressed. I don't like the look of the car without it though. I'm considering buying a spare and maybe cutting away the lower 2" that extends forward... just to experiment. Maybe it'll look good, maybe hideous.

Too bad those tires are so expensive, I want a set... Your's look real good with those steelies.

Gracias. Check your local FB marketplace / craigslist. I know there's a guy selling used ones in Houston for $120 a set. Maybe you'll stumble across a similar deal. They have ridiculously deep tread (for a tire that would be put on a volvo). something like 17/32" new. So used ones are typically still grippy & capable
 
Today i'm tackling some engine bay rust. Nothing too extensive luckily (Thank you, Texas), but needs to be dealt with regardless. I've known since the time I bought the car that a PO had a battery explode and spew caustic acid in the engine bay, stripping the paint in many places under the battery tray. That, and for some reason (maybe related to front end collision in 2009?) there is a bit of rust poking through beneath the hood hinges. Boat will be out of commission for a while while I start this and potentially start tackling some other needed maintenance simultaneously:

-AC system
-transmission swap
-front coilovers

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OH ****!

I did not see that coming! If you really want to do the engine bay correctly, this is certainly the best way. What transmission are you considering?
 
OH ****!

I did not see that coming! If you really want to do the engine bay correctly, this is certainly the best way. What transmission are you considering?

It's a AW71 from roy (2manyturbos). Stronger than the AW70, and from cool weather PNW so less likely to be burnt up from heat.

I'll be installing a new filter, seals, TC seal, and kickdown cable on it.

Driveshaft is getting a new position #1 U-joint (it's partially seized), and new STS carrier bearing.

Engine is getting a new harness from Dave Barton, and STS stainless coolant pipe + silicone heater hoses, CPS, block paint, and possibly relocation of alternator with 940 accessory brackets (alternator on top driver side, compressor in normal spot, PS pump on passenger side). Also non-EGR manifolds :shh:

Also redoing AC system. Parallel flow condenser, new compressor (not sure if I'm going with nissens or sanden yet), custom hoses.

Playing with idea of stainless exhaust, but it's not an immediate need.

Beefed up #2 & #0 AWG battery harnesses.

Kinda want to convert to 940 coolant reservoir.

There's a LOT that I've been wanting to do, and now I have the time to do it. A bunch of the things would have been a PITA to do individually, but now with the engine & transmission out, I can do them all easily.

Also a big reason for this was definitely the transmission, and the fiancee won't let me drop the transmission from underneath the car. Mainly because I had a car fall on me when I was 16 :shh: :shh: :shh: I've learned a lot since then. Can't put a price on safety.

So the under-car activities I'm allowed to do are limited, and when I do them I triple check my vehicle support method
 
Lots of excellent ideas here. I need to connect you with a local Dallasite who converted to R134 with the sanden compressor and reused his original condenser after stripping it with an industrial AC cleaner. His puts out some insanely cool AC on an 87 244 with 400K+ miles even in our 100 degree heat.

Always a good idea to pull it out from above, absolutely can't put a price on safety. Let me tell you bench pressing the AW70 down out of there was an absolute pain and I wouldn't wanna do that again.
 
Lots of excellent ideas here. I need to connect you with a local Dallasite who converted to R134 with the sanden compressor and reused his original condenser after stripping it with an industrial AC cleaner. His puts out some insanely cool AC on an 87 244 with 400K+ miles even in our 100 degree heat.

Always a good idea to pull it out from above, absolutely can't put a price on safety. Let me tell you bench pressing the AW70 down out of there was an absolute pain and I wouldn't wanna do that again.

I'm thinking about continuing to use envirosafe (same as duracool) as the refrigerant.

I really enjoyed being able to just let the refrigerant vent (it's just propane/butane, very little environmental impact) without having to pay a tech to recover it. Makes working on the system easier if I ever have to crack it open again. Can't do that with 134a without giving the kangaroos skin cancer.

As much as I'd like to keep the OE Volvo fin & tube condenser , it just is no match from an engineering standpoint to the parallel flow. I redid the AC system in my 850, and now it's unbearably cold. It's pretty hilarious when its 100F outside and people ask me to turn down the AC.

And agreed with the AW70. It's already a pain working on the floor. Combined with haggling with a transmission, no bueno. Plus I would not have been able to do the other things I needed to do.
 
Is envirosafe made to be compatible with R12 or R134 systems? What's the molecule size compared to traditional refrigerants? I completely agree on being able to vent it freely though, always a pain to have to involve a shop for these types of things. I've heard that the only real downside to the parallel flow condensers is that once they clog, they're pretty much ruined and unflushable due to the smaller passages.

The M46 wasn't terrible to press back in as it was much lighter, but man, what a pain to get it lined up with the trans tunnel in the way along with getting the input shaft lined up while rotating and then to thread in bolts.
 
Is envirosafe made to be compatible with R12 or R134 systems? What's the molecule size compared to traditional refrigerants?

Yep, & much smaller. Propane/butane blend, about 75%/25%. I guess the main concern is flammability, but there's not a whole lot of mass in the system, and I've also read that even though r134a isn't flammable, aerosolized PAG oil is. PLUS, it's insane how hard it is sometimes to ignite a jet of propane. Try taking a propane torch and holding a small flame to it or getting spark near the stream. The propane puts out the fire unless you do a spark at the base of the jet. I also keep a halotron fire extinguisher in the car.

If I get 5-10 years out of my condenser, I'll be fine with that. My parallel flow condenser in my 850 is original, so 25 years old. Never been flushed. And the 850 is uncomfortably cold. No tinting on the windows either

The universal ones aren't that expensive either.

https://coldhose.com/parallel-flow-condensers/universal-parallel-flow-14x24-condenser.html
 
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