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Tales from the Dyno - the case of the NASTY Tune.

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ZVOLV said:
Look, I don't think I am any better than the next man. YOU were the one that resorted to name calling.

If my format of discussing advanced automotive concepts comes off to you as elitist and offends you, I strongly urge you to put me on your ignore list.
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I didn't once call you a name, I did, however, call you out on your nonsense. Elitist or not, your ability to have your theories challenged does not scale with how much education you have, unfortunately for you. You engaged, I engaged, you were condescending, I was condescending, I wasn't offended. Anyways.


Hit it with a hammer until it runs right.
 
Are you clowns done yet? :roll: The OP came in here looking for some help with a problem and many chimed in with useful information. But, as this community has become really good at, it had degraded into dick swinging contest. I don't really care who started it, keep it on track. This is a really good example of why many of our more knowledgeable members rarely visit this place anymore...
 
Canadan said:
$100 says if you put the injectors and amm back to stock it will run perfectly. But what do I know I only battled the exact same problems.
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The AMM was always stock and I've done as you and others suggested. Isn't that the point? I was amused as this thread went skidding into the ditch. If I could have found this information (instead of lots of "it's not running right, and I don't have any information but my butt dyno tells me it's off.") then I wouldn't have bothered asking. In fact, I search and read a lot. The fact that this information is not parsed out of the forum and put somewhere useful is a shame. There is a massive database of useful information here - it just gets really cluttered up with noise.

To whoever commented about this being 10 years ago - I'm not taking it personally - but for me this is new and I'm learning. We don't all have the same entry points to this particular dance. It's a good thing I've been on this forum for almost a decade and know how it rolls and who to listen too.

We all need a hand every once in a while.

If the Mods want to clean up this mess - it may be useful for future reference.
 
Fwiw my car behaved similarly when I was having massive spark blowout. 1st and 2nd would usually roll through without trouble but in 3rd and 4th it was like hitting a wall around 4500rpm. A set of new plugs and a tighter gap cleared it up for me.
 
245gti said:
Are you clowns done yet? :roll: The OP came in here looking for some help with a problem and many chimed in with useful information. But, as this community has become really good at, it had degraded into dick swinging contest. I don't really care who started it, keep it on track. This is a really good example of why many of our more knowledgeable members rarely visit this place anymore...
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At least the OP seems like he got his car running a lot better based on the advice I gave him pretty soon in the thread. Looked like around post 15. Yeah, I stirred the pot really well shortly thereafter with a remark a certain member and, oh yes, the poo flinging began.

It seems like many people just try to copy the guys who have made a cars go fast without really knowing what they are doing. I challenge people to develop their automotive skills using advanced tools and advanced education instead of just trying to imitate people on the interweb.

I realize I am going against the tide of imitators and I expect and accept the friction, but I strongly urge the average memeber here start to refine their skills beyond the multimeter.
 
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ZVOLV said:
I do not agree with this statement. Scopes see waveforms and have precision that multimeters can never get near.
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I wasn't going to touch this thread, but I had to comment on this.

A multimeter (in voltage mode) measures voltage. A scope measures voltage over time. A multi-meter (even a cheap one) will have generally in excess of 12 bits of resolution +/- 2048 counts, and a scope will mostly have 8 (256) with a real resolution of 7 (128)*. Even the cheapest Chinese multi-meter will have a precision that would cause most scopes to go green with envy. They are completely different tools used for completely different purposes. Like a screwdriver and a chisel, there can be some crossover when in the hands of the un-practiced, but it's not to be recommended.

Glad the OP got it sorted.

* There are some readily available 12 bit scopes but they are a bit more expensive than your average scope (car/boat and most light aircraft).

Can we please go back to recommending diagnostics with a multi-meter? A) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo. B) They are available cheaply anywhere. C) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo.
 
BradC said:
Can we please go back to recommending diagnostics with a multi-meter? A) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo. B) They are available cheaply anywhere. C) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo.
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This is exactly what it comes down to. Anyone who suggests you need a tool beyond a multi meter to diagnose an electrical issue with LH has no sense working on cars.
 
BradC said:
Glad the OP got it sorted.

* There are some readily available 12 bit scopes but they are a bit more expensive than your average scope (car/boat and most light aircraft).

Can we please go back to recommending diagnostics with a multi-meter? A) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo. B) They are available cheaply anywhere. C) it's all you need to fix an LHx.x volvo.
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Thanks - the OP is pretty happy that this may be done as well. I was advised by others via PM regarding diagnosing LH using a MM. Early in the discussion (funny, their prediction was this thread was going to go pear-shaped.).

Off to weld in another sensor bung so I can put my wideband on and see if these injectors are safe. I'll report back when I get more data.
 
Advanced minds use advanced tools. Simple minds use simple words.

I am not going to let a few bad apples discourage me. The ignore list works just fine!

I will continue to help members as much as I can and try to keep the attitude to a minimum.
 
ZVOLV said:
At least the OP seems like he got his car running a lot better based on the advice I gave him pretty soon in the thread. Looked like around post 15. Yeah, I stirred the pot really well shortly thereafter with a remark a certain member and, oh yes, the poo flinging began.

It seems like many people just try to copy the guys who have made a cars go fast without really knowing what they are doing. I challenge people to develop their automotive skills using advanced tools and advanced education instead of just trying to imitate people on the interweb.

I realize I am going against the tide of imitators and I expect and accept the friction, but I strongly urge the average memeber here start to refine their skills beyond the multimeter.
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dude you're a toolbag of the highest order, and apparently functionally retarded as well. Post #4 (your first post in the thread) : look at my boss's scope!

We have post #8 where I suggested a boost leak test after resetting the LH ecu (something nick hinted at in his first post but didn't come right out and say--that's that whole been there done that, if you read and cogitate what was actually posted you gain more insight as to what's going on than "derp reset ecu derp")

post #15 is where you should have bowed out of the thread, as you contributed nothing at all past that point. "I have no idea what's going on with your car, and I'm discarding what little information is available"

This is why I laugh at ASE certs. All the certs in the world don't actually help you to understand what's going on. LH 2.4 is simple. It's old school. getting a grasp on the basics and even some of the slightly higher functions is a matter of spending an hour or two reading up about it. Dirty filthy rich? Drives ok most of the time? Could be a maf but I'd look first at boost leaks and the owner's choices in regards to components. In this case, we have a basic setup with massive injectors (which, for some reason, is the most TB thing ever. I need 400hp worth of fuel injector to make 230hp). It doesn't take much to figure out what's going on, and it surely doesn't require a scope.

Again, twit, right tool for the right job. You don't take cylinder heads off to diagnose a leaking radiator just because you can.
 
ZVOLV said:
I honestly have no clue what is going on with your car and have "disregarded" your dyno graphs. Something is obviously wrong. Fix core issue.

Intermittent issues suggest to me that you possibly have a confused computer due to mechanical issues, but I could be wrong.
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ZVOLV said:
At least the OP seems like he got his car running a lot better based on the advice I gave him pretty soon in the thread. Looked like around post 15. Yeah, I stirred the pot really well shortly thereafter with a remark a certain member and, oh yes, the poo flinging began.
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Shouldn't you be passed out in a driveway somewhere?
 
ZVOLV said:
Advanced minds use advanced tools. Simple minds use simple words.

I am not going to let a few bad apples discourage me. The ignore list works just fine!

I will continue to help members as much as I can and try to keep the attitude to a minimum.
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Do you know that I work at the factory on new trucks that are much more advanced than any redblock or megasquirted redblock and we NEVER use a scope for anything. Whether it's doing diag on the canbus systems, checking position sensors, anything. And we're the engineers that build brand new vehicles.
 
ZVOLV said:
oh no....here it comes....(puts on fire hat!)
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It's not exactly flaming when you've been giving bad advice out the entire time. Take off the fire hat, and take off the dunce cap while you're at it. You've been tooting your own horn REALLY ****ING LOUDLY the entire thread, and not helping, but that's pretty much what you do... You were doing better when you just used to tell everyone to polish their multimeter skills until they were as good as you.

You should have just dropped out of this one after your first post and you were subsequently informed that a scope wasn't necessary to see what's going on here. If you are admittedly "no dyno tooner" and there are several present who ARE, back the truck up, instead of going so far to defend your methods and your "advanced mind" and your daily wrenching. If you're striving to be professional, ****ing sweet man, more power to you but your posts definitely don't reflect it and haven't for some time.
 
I am aware of my shortcomings and my achievements. I am PROUD of the fact that today I get to go enjoy the pocket full of cash that I have earned through hard work and skills I have learned from places such as tbricks. Sorry if my rhetoric came of as pompous, arrogant, or simply just rubbed somebody the wrong way.
 
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