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"Look at my 20's!"..."Pssh Man dem 10's"..."Your right. I keep em clean though"

Adaptec AKA Motorsport Tec probably has made me the most accurate adapters over the years, and the turn around time is quick. Just make sure you get the appropriate centerbore on the adapter to minimize as much wobble as possible.

I'm not going to jump on the hipster-hate band wagon, but the combo reminds me of this:

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Looking forward to pictures with the wheels mounted.
 
josh+ said:
haha as soon as i read the title i thought of this:
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Stephen said:
edit: and i love the title. i watched that movie earlier
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You guys are up on your ghetto trivia. My kind of site.

First one to give me a good Blankman quote wins a meal when I meet you at a meet.

DNAsEqUeNcE said:
No tig? just braze? sad panda :-(
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Ohh I can TIG too, the only time my Miller touches bikes is to tack them in the jig though. But it's used to for all manners of car tomfoolery. I'll post some fab work once it is done on this car. Brazing is the exact same motion as TIG'ing though. Just slower. Pull an old fart out of the woodwork that knows how to braze and he can TIG in a day or two.

You'll probably see some VW stuff too. It's a getting an Integra Type R K series drivetrain at the moment. Well I haven't bought the motor yet, but resto stuff is happening now.

Has anyone ever welded a 0.8mm bike tube? It ain't easy.


Redwood Chair said:
Tig is weak.
Braze is the real deal on thin chromolloy.
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Brazing is a very traditional method that is strong and very good looking once it's finished. Outside of the bike and small aircraft community you don't see it anywhere. Which makes it pretty cool.

Stephen said:
yeaa buddy. tig is too strong. it'll break the tube.
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Redwood Chair said:
I know huh?
The edges of the welds are work hardened and crack way before a brazed bike.
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Mahh, they both have their perks. Brazing places the stress concentration over a much wider area, but anneals the steel due to the longer process. TIG due to it's short duration doesn't anneal but causes embrittlement. Though bike tubing like Reynolds 853 and stainless 953 are metallurgically designed to become stronger than the original steel once welded. From a hardness increase without ruining the fatigue life perspective, which is veryyy important with bikes that are built to last.

I'll build a sub 3 lb TIG road frame one of these days just to have it.

VQ said:
VW's make hipsters, not Volvo's.
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Prettty sure i've seen an urban outfitters add with a Volvo in it....:)

Have I aquired the nickname hipster already? sweet....
 
Old Iron said:
Is this the car that was just for sale a few weeks ago!
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Yes please!

blkaplan said:
how come everytime i in the kitchen, you in the kitchen, in the god damn refridgerator
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I love you....:nod:

schaff70 said:
How many people will it take to rotate your GTI? Post up a date & time & we'll see who can get over there to help out
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I'm off everyday at 4, and could muster up one dude of my own. I got beer too!

980-355-twenty five twelve

Ohh ohh! I put down a deposit on a set of not produced anymore IPD sway bars with a big dip in the front one. Who knows what that means?!
 
savestheday said:
Once I find the correct color touch up paint (does anyone know what volvo color this is?)
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Looks like Carlsbad Yellow (code 128) in the pictures. You can check it on the chassis plate for sure though. Plate in the engine bay riveted on the pass side strut tower. Look at the right hand column, a couple rows down. There should be a 3 digit number followed by a - and a couple more numbers. The 3 digits before the - is your color code.

savestheday said:
Ohh ohh! I put down a deposit on a set of not produced anymore IPD sway bars with a big dip in the front one. Who knows what that means?!
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V8.jpg




That's my guess at least. Can I ask ball park price for a bike frame? PM me or email me if you prefer :)




Edit:
savestheday said:
First one to give me a good Blankman quote wins a meal when I meet you at a meet.
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Slap me around and call me Susan.
 
I am on a mission to finish my VW in the next six months or so. I just have to buy my damned expensive Honda drivetrain.

I keep telling myself that pretty well the best available factory NA drivetrain is worth the 7k or so it is going to cost me to buy it. I need to stop spending money on this Volvo for now. I'm over the "new car, buy stuff" syndrome for the moment I think.

And as far as bike frames go. They start around the $800 range for non off the wall frame. I have my hands tied up in cars for a little while though, just finished all the customer stuff before I moved to Virginia. I love building the bikes but they start to drive you crazy after a while. Because if it's not perfect i'm not happy with it. Get back with me in a year and we can whip you up a real cool one in trade for some IPD parts!
 
I was testing the waters to see if I wanted to do it for a living and then accepted a job and moved recently. So no website, but I will work on that one day. I am attempting to have some professional photo work done with previous customers, but that is pretty low on the priority list at the moment.
 
Alright alright alright. Time for an update!

A few things have been finished up with the little cutie of a Volvo since my last post.

- Got some older IPD sway that should be in the mail soon.
- Rewired the OD to the rear defroster switch
- Got tires and wheels mounted
- Went to the Mangochick meet!

The morning after.....

IMG_7638.jpg


Now onto the wheels. In hindsight the 8.5" wheels would have probably been a better choice, but these are 9.5". And 0mm effective offset all the way around would look a little better. And I didn't want that much stretch, too Cali style ADAM!

Here is some info that I know would have been helpful for me when looking around for offset info. So if anyone cares here it is.

- '87 Vette wheels. 16x9.5" (10.5" overall), 38mm factory offset
- 225/40/16 Falken Ziex 512. Discontinued. So buy a set from discount tire now if you like the size. I wanted 245's in a 45 series but evidently they don't exist. ****ty 16" tire choices.
- 38mm front adapters (read 0mm effective offset)
- 28mm rear adapters (Sooo 10mm effective offset)

After putting them on this is what I would do if I bought new stuff. 245/50 tires, 38mm adapters all around. Live and Learn. And to put the issue to bed this is the absolute minimum backspacing you can run without hacking anything up. 5.25" front and 5.64" rear, keep in mind this strictly for the rims since these are stretched and have no tire hanging over.

I'm going to pull out the front fenders, roll the lips front and rear, and keep going lower and fix things as they rub.

Adapters. Adaptec (motorsport-tech.com) did a wonderful job with the adapters, just the way they should be and at a real good price.

IMG_7639.jpg


Comparo

IMG_7640.jpg


More stretch than I was hoping for. I'll go wider next time.

IMG_7632.jpg


I had to pull all of the clamp on weights and put stick on weights.

IMG_7643.jpg


Reused some weights I stole off some other wheels

IMG_7645.jpg


How to tighten adapters by yourself. With a garden hoe, and I didn't even have to use my pimp hand.

IMG_7641.jpg


Before...

IMG_7627.jpg


After. Definitely needs more front low and the front fenders pulled to combat the pokeage.

IMG_7646.jpg




I need to stop spending money on this guy and waste it on my VW. But the Volvo is so cool! And it's hard to spend money on a car that won't be done for a year when you have instant gratification with one that you drive everyday.

To do list: (in this order-ish)

- Shortened front struts
- Ghetto coilovers
- Install sway bars with shortened end links
- Camber plates
- Build 2" receiver hitch
- Khaplenke roll center adjusters
- Explore relocating rear struts, or replace with shorter stock car units
- Chevy rear end of some sort, or an 8.8 Ford.
- Secondary air assist struts in the rear. This car will tow my racer soon enough, so these will combat some tongue weight. Or I'll just get a tow dolly.
- Change the dinky motor and tranny.....
- A small square front end. But the coffin set up is growing on me.

This is more of a brain dump so I can come back to this list later. And so you guys can hold me to it.

Cheers
 
Yeah, I'm glad you dont like the stretch on it. Looks like you cheapened out... What is the factory size tyre for these rims?
 
^Although I agree that is a little too much stretch, will you ever learn that not everyone likes what you like? Just because it's not you cup of tea, doesn't mean it looks like he "cheapened" out.
 
grnmachine02 said:
^Although I agree that is a little too much stretch, will you ever learn that not everyone likes what you like? Just because it's not you cup of tea, doesn't mean it looks like he "cheapened" out.
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I'm aware of that. But with that being said, it's also my opinion. I love seeing cars that look like they can go fast, which means tyres that aren't over stretched, stretched tyres on wide rims do really look like the owner couldn't afford the wide tyres!
 
VQ said:
I'm aware of that. But with that being said, it's also my opinion. I love seeing cars that look like they can go fast, which means tyres that aren't over stretched, stretched tyres on wide rims do really look like the owner couldn't afford the wide tyres!
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I can assure you it isn't a monetary shortcoming on my part that dictated my tire choice. Also, if my goal was to make the car "go fast" I would have done so already. Surely not an issue of incompetence.
 
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