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Steve's 1982 244: Stage One

Yay!!! My AEM fuel pump just showed up to the shop, and it looks like a very nice unit. I also called AEM the other day to get some info on this particular pump and E85, and hte tech dept. said that these pumps have been proven to be very reliable on E85 and will support over 500whp on E85. :) It make me giddy just thinking about it.

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1983_242 said:
Yay!!! My AEM fuel pump just showed up to the shop, and it looks like a very nice unit. I also called AEM the other day to get some info on this particular pump and E85, and hte tech dept. said that these pumps have been proven to be very reliable on E85 and will support over 500whp on E85. :) It make me giddy just thinking about it.

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Fantastic. I came across these the other day. Hard to beat for $80!
 
gross polluter said:
Fantastic. I came across these the other day. Hard to beat for $80!
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$80 is cheap, I bought mine for $98.98 shipped.

MrBill said:
How does that rate vs the deatchwerks or aeromotive?

It's a little under $100 new on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/AEM-50-1000-H...&qid=1353533337&sr=8-2&keywords=aem+fuel+pump

Second bullet says:
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My buddy was running a DW300 in his 240sx, and even with 10ga wire to the pump the pump shat the bed in less than a year on E85. I can't speak for the Aeromotive pumps, but the AEM tech said this pump has made 500+AWHP in Evos running E85. For $100, I figured I'd risk it before even talking with AEM. But, after talking with tech I don't feel that it's all that much of a risk anymore.
 
So how does the emusa wg come out? Heard/read many basd things about it like crappy v-bands and blowby at the valve itself?

Nice header ! :) will it change color or crimple when hot?
 
I can vouch for the aeromotive pump as that's what I currently run on my car. Still enough fuel for 600whp on E85.

But, for the majority 20lph less is insignificant for a pump that can supply 500whp on E85 for less than $100.
 
MadDog_945 said:
So how does the emusa wg come out? Heard/read many basd things about it like crappy v-bands and blowby at the valve itself?

Nice header ! :) will it change color or crimple when hot?
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Thanks.

The Vbands are crappy on the Emusa WG's, but 30 seconds with a die grinder fixes them. Basically, the Vbands they send you with the WG are finicky to open/close because the corners of the clamps hit the corners of the opposing side of the clamp. Grind the corners down until the clamps are free to open/close and you're set. I know the chinese WG's are not of Tial quality, but it seems that with correct install and keeping the diaphragm cool that they will last a long time. I built a header for Asher/RvolvoR with an Emusa WG about 2 years ago and his is still working perfectly as far as I know.

I don't know how well the paint will hold up, but I baked 3 coats onto it @ 500*F, so it shouldn't wrinkle up at all. I've had good luck with VHT Flame Proof paint, but I always sandblast, brake clean, blow off with compressed air, preheat to about 150*F, then spray paint on 'til fully covered and bake 'til dry. I usually use a normal color like Aluminum, black, Titanium, etc. I imagine the blue will hold up fine though.
 
gross polluter said:
I can vouch for the aeromotive pump as that's what I currently run on my car. Still enough fuel for 600whp on E85.

But, for the majority 20lph less is insignificant for a pump that can supply 500whp on E85 for less than $100.
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Exactly, the little AEM seems like a little monster of a pump for $100. I have a Bosch 044 that I'll wire inline after a surge tank once I get brave enough to go back to the compound turbos.


On a side note: Is there any advantages to running really large fuel pump wiring?...like a 500watt amp wiring kit (8GA or something of the likes). I was thinking of pre wiring my car for both fuel pumps by running a 500watt amp power cable kit to a power distribution block then to 10GA to the pump(s).
 
The data sheet says 15 amps at 80psi.
Shouldn't 12 gauge be enough?

Online calculator shows 15 amps with 12 gauge would be 13.69 volts with a 15 foot wire run. 10 gauge would be 13.95. Is that worth it?

edit: that's assuming 14.4 volts initial
 
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MrBill said:
The data sheet says 15 amps at 80psi.
Shouldn't 12 gauge be enough?

Online calculator shows 15 amps with 12 gauge would be 13.69 volts with a 15 foot wire run. 10 gauge would be 13.95. Is that worth it?
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In the instructions that came in the box it said 12GA is the minimum requirement for the pump to last. I have an 8GA amp kit laying around that I was thinking about cutting up to make a good solid link from the bat+, to the FP relay, then to a distribution block that is closer to the pump(s). Is this a bad idea for some reason? I just thought bigger would be better.

On a side note:

I had a bit of trouble mating the Ebay supplied flange to the bottom of my turbo, because the bolt spread was over 0.500" too wide with only 0.485" of material to mill out of the sh*t flange!!! :grrr: Luckily, I had an extra oil feed line flange for a T3/T4 that fit the bolt spread perfectly, so I drilled the 0.035" restrictor to fit the (0.500") 10AN male weld fitting from the oil drain kit. 15 minutes later....

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Love this thread! will be watching what's gonna happen here as i have some similar plans for my GLT in the near future ;)

Keep it up!! ;)

Adam
 
1983_242 said:
In the instructions that came in the box it said 12GA is the minimum requirement for the pump to last. I have an 8GA amp kit laying around that I was thinking about cutting up to make a good solid link from the bat+, to the FP relay, then to a distribution block that is closer to the pump(s). Is this a bad idea for some reason? I just thought bigger would be better.
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8gauge wire just seems like extreme overkill for a fuel pump.

I guess it can't hurt
 
1983_242 said:
and keeping the diaphragm cool that they will last a long time. I built a header for Asher/RvolvoR with an Emusa WG about 2 years ago and his is still working perfectly as far as I know...
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Keeping it cool? So you're watercooling it ? Doesnt only the TIAL has watercooling?
 
MadDog_945 said:
Keeping it cool? So you're watercooling it ? Doesnt only the TIAL has watercooling?
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No, by keeping it cool I meant placing it in a well ventilated area. I will be wrapping the DP with titanium header wrap from the exh housing flange to about where the WG recirc tube is.



Happy Turkey Day!!! :)

My lovely wife let me put a couple hours in at the shop this morning, so I brought my oil pan to the shop to weld in the 10AN fitting for the oil drain. Here's what I came up with.

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This looks about right.

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TIG welded with silicon bronze filler.

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Smoothed the corners with a carbide burr and hit it with a Scotch Brite wheel. Done. :)
 
DNAsEqUeNcE said:
Silli bronze ftw! So nice and you don't need much heat.
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Yep, that's the main reason I used it there. I had to keep the heat down low not to warp the flange face since its only stamped sheet metal. Also, after I drilled the pan to 0.750" I ended up with a 1/4" gap between the side of the pan and the baffle, so the silicon bronze helps there too because it's easy to stack it up to fill the gap.
 
I have some good news and bad news...

Good news is that all of my fittings and lines are now completely ready to go together, because the various fittings I was waiting on showed up. I didn't get a whole bunch done last weekend on my own car, instead I fabricated a bunch of IC tubes and a FMIC on my friends 240SX. He operates on a TB budget too, so I did the job in trade for a 2.5" IC tube kit and some future grunt work on my 240 build. I removed the front carpet section and the pass. side seat, then removed the heavy rubber floor mats......after which, I discovered a couple rust holes on the driver's side floor. It's no biggie to fix, but still a bummer to find out my pristine Diesel beauty queen was "ridden hard and put away wet" so to speak.

And, that's not even close to how bad my bad news is....

The bad news is that on my way home from work today some oblivious 20y/o girl t-boned my 242. I'll have to see what the insurances want to do with it all, but I'd imagine the 242 will be a total loss. And, to top it all off she drives a flippin' Volvo!!! Isn't there some sort of rule against this happening?! She's an S70 owner...'nuff said. :lol: I didn't think it was all that bad after pulling over and exchanging info and inspecting the vehicles. She completely squashed my passenger fender and the front of the door a little, but it looked pretty minor. Unfortunately, she slammed mostly into the face of my wheel which bent the hell out of my coilover on that side, to the point that the tire was rubbing on the spring seat and spring.
 
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