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91 Regina 740 No Start

Spark at the king lead doesn't mean spark at the plugs. If its not firing on alternate fuel and has spark at all 4 plug wires, it's mechanical. Like a timing belt jumped.
 
Harbor freight timing light would tell you if you have spark and if your timing is correct. $8 could have saved you hours.
 
ZVOLV said:
Spark at the king lead doesn't mean spark at the plugs. If its not firing on alternate fuel and has spark at all 4 plug wires, it's mechanical. Like a timing belt jumped.
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Checked timing and it is in time. Waiting for dip**** owner to try real starter fluid.
Lando said:
Harbor freight timing light would tell you if you have spark and if your timing is correct. $8 could have saved you hours.
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I have a timing light 4 hours from the car, but he doesn?t. If it doesn?t start on the real starter fluid I?ll suggest he borrows a timing light.
 
PromiseRing said:
I can?t say they ALL are, but i cleaned the injector grounds and valve cover grounds. Did not clean the ones that are on the firewall though:eek:ops
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My experience with this is limited but I have been working on a Regina 740 recently; so far when it cranks well but doesn't catch and start, it's been a slightly crusty ground that might look fine. That said, I know all the other parts involved in starting the car work OK so YMMV.

The points on the front fenders were prone to this due to exposure, and I started having issues with the ones inside the car after I, uh, removed all the windows and the interior and left it outside.
 
Never mind owner is lazy and useless and won’t get anything done. Car will sit broken in his garage until he decides to scrap it. Thank you guys for your help.
 
PromiseRing said:
Can you adjust ignition timing via the distributor on a Regina car? There seems to be a slot for adjustment.
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No. Computer controls it. It knows where the crank is. Dist mount hall effect sensors do not, therefore those are adjustable manually.
 
I had a Regina 940 for ~20 years, always starts in 0 F weather. Did you check fuel pressure, pump may run but not put out enough oomph. Going on memory you need 35 psi, when blipping throttle it should go up to 43 psi, again going on memory. Car will start with 20 or 25 psi, but hesitate when you want to accelerate. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel manifold, rig up a cheap gauge and check FP.
 
milanomike said:
I had a Regina 940 for ~20 years, always starts in 0 F weather. Did you check fuel pressure, pump may run but not put out enough oomph. Going on memory you need 35 psi, when blipping throttle it should go up to 43 psi, again going on memory. Car will start with 20 or 25 psi, but hesitate when you want to accelerate. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel manifold, rig up a cheap gauge and check FP.
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Schrader valve wasn?t until 93+ i believe. Even if it wasn?t getting fuel that wouldn?t explain why it wouldn?t start on starting fluid.
 
If you have fuel and spark, and it still won't start with a little throttle pressure to bypass the IAC, odds are that it's the MAP sensor. It's a $30 GM part. They go bad once every 300K miles.

-Ryan
 
Ryan_R said:
If you have fuel and spark, and it still won't start with a little throttle pressure to bypass the IAC, odds are that it's the MAP sensor. It's a $30 GM part. They go bad once every 300K miles.

-Ryan
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Would a bad map sensor cause a no start though? Maybe I can grab one from the JY and parts swap. Bet they?re cheap cheap.

Heading to Springfield tomorrow to mess with the car again. Plan to bring some real starting fluid and also swap out a spare CPS I have.
 
So I drove there today, reinstalled the dist, and it started right up. Runs like absolute garbage. Any ideas? Smells very rich. It was in time last time I checked. Adjusting the dist does nothing as expected. Unplugging the map or iat (whatever the thing is that’s located in the amm position) also does nothing at all.
https://youtu.be/pvCQQKBsJ7w
 
Car has spark and kind of runs off of ether but not really. I made a triple jumper to jump the FPR (pump and RSR) and still nothing. Any ideas? Injectors not firing? I’m 100% sure the pump works and pumps a LOT of fuel.

Plugs are dry after pulling them.
 
Smells extremely rich. Got it running on its own. Timed correctly I’m 100% sure. Barely idles but sometimes idles very smoothly. I can hear injectors clicking. Doesn’t respond to throttle at all except for idling even worse and maybe stalling/backfiring. Wtf
 
PromiseRing said:
Unplugging the map or iat (whatever the thing is that’s located in the amm position) also does nothing at all.
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The one in the air hose is the intake air temp sensor. The MAP sensor is in the left rear corner, hanging off the diagonal strut brace. Needs electrical and vacuum line hooked up. They work together to tell the computer how much air is getting in. Coolant temp sensor for the computer is under the manifold, by intake runner #4. Bad connection or bad sensor might be telling the system that it's -40 degrees. Or +450 degrees.
http://www3.telus.net/neatcrap/volvo/sensors.gif

PromiseRing said:
Smells extremely rich. Barely idles but sometimes idles very smoothly. Doesn’t respond to throttle at all except for idling even worse and maybe stalling/backfiring.
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Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose (pull it off while pressurized) for gas leaking from a torn diaphragm. Check the idle switch on the throttle body for proper adjustment. Should click just as the throttle starts to move. Check everywhere else for vacuum leaks.

PromiseRing said:
Car is for sale at $10 firm local pickup only in Springfield, MO. Friends don’t let friends drive 7/9 cars.
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Maybe it would run better if you stopped "texting and driving while blaring your music", then running into innocent hobos in trash cans? :-P
 
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