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Volvo 144 Simplest Performance Boost

The DGAS carb has an accelerator pump and a seperate idle circuit. It also doesn't need to be synchronized like SUs do. Besides, you already have the manifold and linkage.

Truth. I'm honestly pretty interested in the Mikuni dual 42s, as it seems like a good carb for my current usage and plenty of room to grow. I might end up sticking with that one, and giving it a go. Agreed on the DCOEs, though, as my local carb shop was quoting $400 for tuning.
 
I have a pair of Mikunis that came on my 122. They worked fine but had some quirks. Too tired to go into detail but let me know if you are interested. I eventually fuel injected the Amazon so the Mikunis are just sitting in my basement. Would be up for unloading them if you are interested. I also have a DGAS.

I've messed around with the old redblocks quite a bit. Of all the changes I made, porting and milling the heads had the biggest impact. Not sure how effective that would have been without all the supporting upgrades I had already made, (sidedrafts, exhaust, cam).
 
You are a saint. I already own a set of 45 DCOE's, but it's sounding like having them tuned professionally will run me around $400. I have some SU's but they're missing the float bowls and need a complete rebuild.

This will be my to-do bible for the next year or so. Thank you again

You want to have some strangers Roger you royally? $400?/ Who? My old friends downtown?

I didn't wade thru all the above but simple more power is in this order, same for any engine:

Compression.
Camshaft
Carburation...

The 3 Cs

Camshaft makes for the powercurve shape.
Powercurve shape makes the demand for the gearbox ratios

And depending on what you have or will have in the box that can be a big limter on just how much of a fun cam you can get aways with..
Make a peaky motor and the motor will go "whhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa (crunch) duuuuuuuuuh uh uh uhhhh uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhh " on gearchanges and that ain't quick...

45s are fine. I have them on my little V4 and have run different motors over the year from 1886cc to 1815cc to 1730cc And won a round of US National Championship Stage rally with the damn little "spare 1730" and now with 1965cc, 38 venturis and no nothing done between those motors...

$400 is absurd..Unless you WANT to get reamed.:wtf:

Some people are into that...:oops:

You need to talk to somebody with sense on Planet Earth that doesn't need to make this into "The Long March of the PLA"
 
Weber 36/36 (DCD?) + a K camshaft gave better hp (approx 130), tuning, driveability and milage compared to the gas guzzling twin SUs. Weber 45s looks fancy but overkill for decent power boost.

MN
 
You want to have some strangers Roger you royally? $400?/ Who? My old friends downtown?

I didn't wade thru all the above but simple more power is in this order, same for any engine:

Compression.
Camshaft
Carburation...

The 3 Cs

Camshaft makes for the powercurve shape.
Powercurve shape makes the demand for the gearbox ratios

And depending on what you have or will have in the box that can be a big limter on just how much of a fun cam you can get aways with..
Make a peaky motor and the motor will go "whhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa (crunch) duuuuuuuuuh uh uh uhhhh uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuhhh " on gearchanges and that ain't quick...

45s are fine. I have them on my little V4 and have run different motors over the year from 1886cc to 1815cc to 1730cc And won a round of US National Championship Stage rally with the damn little "spare 1730" and now with 1965cc, 38 venturis and no nothing done between those motors...

$400 is absurd..Unless you WANT to get reamed.:wtf:

Some people are into that...:oops:

You need to talk to somebody with sense on Planet Earth that doesn't need to make this into "The Long March of the PLA"

Hah, thank you! Yeah, Carbs Unlimited quoted $400 for tuning and $300 for install of the DCOEs. I'm plenty comfortable installing them, but don't have all the tools to tune them carefully. Honestly I'm still pretty into the Mikuni set. From what I hear the biggest difficulty is linkage.
 
You want to have some strangers Roger you royally? $400?/ Who? My old friends downtown?

You need to talk to somebody with sense on Planet Earth that doesn't need to make this into "The Long March of the PLA"

Speaking of getting Rogered, who would y'all recommend going to for head work? VPD is appealing for the price and quality of work, but there's obviously the hassle of having to make sure I can get my money back if he flakes (PayPal, firm delivery dates, etc). Is there somebody in the Seattle area or am I best sending out for one?

The head on there currently is an F-Head from the 80s (factory rebuilt engine), so I'm tempted to keep that core and get a new one. (I'm thinking the head on there has hardened seats, considering it's coming from the 80s).
 
Alrighty all, clearly head work is in order as a solid first step. Car currently runs quite well, so I'm interested in picking up a spare head to do the work on while I keep drivin it around. Anybody have one they'd be interested in selling or a direction they can point me in? Not sure what the best head would be for my application - I've heard F Head, though considering I'm going carb'd I'm not sure what I'd do with the injection ports.
 
Injected heads are better than the carbed heads. Bigger intake valves already. And your late F head might already have hardened exhaust seats.

All you have to do with the injector ports is seal them up somehow. Some people JB weld nickels in place. I tapped mine and screwed in some bolts (trimmed to be flush on the inside) when I was still running my old F head.

The injector ports are a very small issue.
 
Injected heads are better than the carbed heads. Bigger intake valves already. And your late F head might already have hardened exhaust seats.

All you have to do with the injector ports is seal them up somehow. Some people JB weld nickels in place. I tapped mine and screwed in some bolts (trimmed to be flush on the inside) when I was still running my old F head.

The injector ports are a very small issue.

Legit! Now to find an F head!
 
All you have to do with the injector ports is seal them up somehow. Some people JB weld nickels in place. I tapped mine and screwed in some bolts (trimmed to be flush on the inside) when I was still running my old F head.

The injector ports are a very small issue.
I have some freeze plugs in mine, easy and cheap!
head%2011_zpsg95ffwye.jpg
 
Ive got a b20 head... carbed.. not sure what it is. looks like someone may have tried to port it, maybe. It needs a good going through, but you can have it.
 
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