Project Lucifer

Where the heck are you getting these numbers??

klr142 said:

Where the heck are you getting these numbers??

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Which ones? The ones from the first section are things that I've weighed, the 2nd section are from anthony hydes web page, a couple from turbobricks threads and posted weights of things, which ones do you think are the wrong weight?

I just took the car out to a truck scale, it came in at 2950 without me in it. If here-say is correct and my fully loaded 244 with sunroof, leather, p/s, a/c/ trailer hitch, fog lights, cruise control, spare tire with tool kit was 3100lbs from the factory, I have pulled about 150lbs off the car. I still need to work on gutting the trunk and removing the tar. It's getting there!

Thinking about driving this thing around a lot more in the summer and I need to make a list of things it needs to be a "reasonable" daily driver:
1. new steering rack ($250)
2. new windshield, mirrors, rear glass seal ($350)
3. heatercore/blowermotor ($300)
4. fix speedometer, I've replaced the speedo and cable but it still fluxuates and reads about 10mph too high. I've been using a GPS on my phone for now ($100?)
5. new seats (sparco evo2, $750ea)
6. all new poly bushings, panhard rod, lateral links ($300)
All that should make it not so sketchy to drive?

New steering rack, poly control arm bushings, trianglesunlimied.com adjustable swaybar end links, front wheel bearings and new strut mounts were installed a few weeks ago. One of the techs here at the shop made me some shortened front coilovers that we are going to try and install next week. Saab struts and some welding made coilovers that were about 3" shorter then the factory strut tubes. Those strut tubes and an alignment should make the car handle pretty good.

-The car has developed an oil pressure problem now. The light comes on at idle and goes up to about 2.5 bar when the car has some RPM at it. Running 10w30 Royal Purple oil in it right now.

-The car has almost no horsepower below 3000rpm, so it's pretty painful to drive.

-Last tank of gas averaged 11.5MPG. I think I need to drop the car off at RSI or somewhere to have the power tuned, k-jet must be running like garbage.

Coilovers being installed right now. I weighed the stock setup and the new coilover setup. It is saving exactly 10lbs per side. another 20lbs off the front of the car!

Nice! Let me know how the tire/wheel clearance is at the same ride height. So, those are stock 240 spindles that you had cut down and re-welded to work with the Saab inserts? What spring rate and hardware are you using? Where'd you get it and how much $$?

Old man John built them. They're turned down 740 tubes slipped into 240 spindles and welded. I don't recall which lock rings he used...

And he'd be happy to build more

I guess there's some progress being made:



Bought ben's vurbo's/john(the asperator)/doug's old blueprinted 300hp+ shortblock to replace the no oil pressure original 200k miles engine that is in Lucifer right now, been cleaning it up and painting to install it in the car. Been waiting 4 weeks for the salvation army to come pick up a 10' giant old couch that's been living in the garage so I can bring the car in and start with the cleanup and engine swap. I have all the parts I need and the engine hoist and everything, just need this couch out of the garage to get started.

The plan is to install this short block and do some light porting to the 90- manifold that's on there then drop it off at RSI for a dyno and baseline then retune for 200whp on k-jet. Once that's sorted out I'll focus more on sorting through the chassis (LSD, Seats, steering wheel, brakes, and buttoning down the rear end)

Spent the weekend working on the car again:

Engine is out, starting to clean and transfer pieces to the new shortblock. I found out that my throw out bearing was broken and flopping around, my clutch fork rivets for the pivot point was broken and cracked and the clutch friction disk has a date stamp of 1997 on it, still about 50% material left on it also.

I found that my idle air control motor has been unplugged for at least 6 years since I replaced the engine harness with a n.o.s one back in 2005. Thinking of removing the cold start equipment since it doesn't work anyway, might simplify the wiring even more.

strangely, about 5 seconds after the transmission cleared the front bumper as the engine was being removed, the power went out in the garage and I was stuck in the tiny garage with an engine hoist taking up 80% of the available space in the absolute dark. I thought it was funny that the power went out as Lucifer's heart left the confines of his body. Is that a good or bad omen?

Nice! And, no idea on the omen... Haha

It's alive!
It turns out that everything was hooked up correctly and my hours and hours (I think I ended up spending about 12 hours total retiming and double checking wires, relays, fuel pressure, etc) was kind of a waste of time. The breather hose from the crank case to the turbo inlet pipe had hardened and made a big vacuum leak. In addition, the fuel distributor flap had been gummed up pretty bad and was very hard to lift so the vacuum wasn't lifting the plate enough to give it enough fuel.

To the nay-sayers: I removed the cold start injector and warm up regulator assemblies and complete wiring and blocked off the ports on the fuel distributor and the car runs fine without them. You have to give the car some revs when it is cold to warm up enough to idle on its own, but once it's warm, the car runs fine without them.

Cooling system is hooked up with the heater core hardlines removed and plugged off, no coolant leaks anywhere.

New problems:
-I reused some crush washers for the oil cooler lines and they didn't crush enough and are not leaking a significant amount of oil on the ground. Jim fisher has ordered OEM ones for me which cost about $2.50 for the 4 of them.

-Alternator ground wire exploded, so the 2 alternator I have are dead. I ordered an 80A one for a 940T which looks like the same size, but higher power from the 200k + miles 55A OEM one that was on the car.

-I need to order a driver's side motor mount, the OEM diesel mount I installed on it last year popped when I was removing the motor. The motor flops around pretty good with only one motor mount.

-I think my starter is on it's way out, it makes lots of noise when it's cranking. It is also the original one on the car, so probably very worn out after 200k+ miles. It's good enough for now.

-original t3 turbo is probably dead, it makes bearing noise and lots of blue/white smoke out of the tail pipe under boost. No coolant in the oil or vice versa so most likely not a headgasket. (Elring engine gasket was used with proper torque and installation)

-It won't idle below 1300RPM. The throttle plate isn't sealing completely, the idle lowers if you manually close the throttle plate, probably needs to be readjusted?

-The licence plate expired within the last year that the car has been sitting in my garage, so the idle has to be below 1k before I take it through emissions.

Making progress!

I dropped Lucifer off at ARD (http://www.ardideas.com/) last week for some major work to make the car more reliable.

• Remove K jet system/install LH fuel system & wire
• Quote for custom wiring, brand new wiring loom
• Fabricate intake and shroud
• Motor mount replace
• Gasket match/port intake, head, t body, spacer
• Powder coat intake manifold, brackets, etc..
• Check Fitment on AEM gauge, fit blanking plate CNC
• Upgrade wiring to Coil +
• Alternator, test and confirm operation. Includes remove and replace
• Ground wiring update alternator, chassis, engine block
• Remove head studs (intake) install Yoshifab studs
• Install strut brace
• Install phenolic spacers, check for porting
• Set MBC and wastegate for 1 bar
• Fit skid plate, may need hardware

He said it'll take a couple weeks, and I can't wait until it's on the road again!

hahahaah my old motor! That dirty slut motor gettin all over town.

BTW if you paint it red, it won't leak oil but it will be stuck in the 14's. If you keep it blue, it WILL leak but +10hp.

lol, it's ford red now.

update: the car is still at ARD and eating more $$$$. The engine is looking really good with the EFI installed and K-jet removed and wiring cleaned up and tucked. Powdercoating everything is making it look good. I bought an NPR intercooler from a vendor at work for $130 so we are upgrading that at the same time. ARD recommended to upgrade to s70 T5 blue injectors for a 320hp goal and improved tech/fuel economy/cold start/response versus the green 740T injectors he was going to install. Once it's buttoned up I'll probably drive it to a local dyno and see what it makes now that it'll run nicely. I've got my fingers crossed for 200+ whp!

Shoot, I am starting to like the 80's 240 front end more and more! Especially with those old school amber turns. Good to see the car coming together nicely, replace the darn crush washers next time!

Still at ARD, the new wiring harness was upgraded to thicker gauge wires for the ignition system and additional thicker grounds were installed to help the electricity go where it's supposed to go. They used my car to prototype a heat shield and cold air intake system for 240s with turbo and efi. They are selling them for $45


The alternator has also been updated from the 45A 240 giant 20lb one to one off an early 90s 740 with 90a and only weighs about 6lbs. Custom intercooler piping has been made to attach the tall/thicker NPR intercooler to help with more underhood temps. There is a slight misfire that he's been diagnosing. The car is going to be rock solid reliable once he's done which is why I've been spending the additional for the increased attention to detail.

I'm finally having my Group-A spoiler installed by them also, they are working on designing me spoiler spacers like I see on the original group-a car to give an increased spoiler angle for more down-force.

months later...making progress. ARD got everything wired up and running, but i had really low compression in one cylinder. Turns out that one valve was bent some how. He took the head off, ordered up some fancy double valve springs and had the head skimmed and rebuilt for me. I thought it would be a good idea to put 10mm exhaust studs in while everything was off so my custom exhaust manifold has something solid to hang off of, plus he's port/polishing everything up a bunch. I sent him pictures of the group-a heads and a couple high power heads from Europe to base my head off of. The motor is almost very solid so i can focus on the chassis build and weight reduction again (still shooting for <2700lbs). Here are some pictures:
double valve springs, ipd turbo cam and adjustable cam gear:

ported exhaust ports:

ported intake ports:

resurfaced head:

we are still deciding what to do with the combustion chambers, maybe polish and even bowl size?
hopefully the car will be on the road by the end of the year, he's got a lot left to do for me though.