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242 DL -80 4.6l V8

Lankku

Lankku

Active member
Joined
May 23, 2015
Location
Finland
Yep. Did a thing that doesn't seem to be done too often because last winter found only one 240 from Norway with a 4V Cobra engine. At least that's what the internet says :lol:
Here is a rough explanation on what has happened.

Early this year bought a -06 Crown Vic Police Interceptor 2V engine with original oilcooler and 122k miles, -07(or newer) Mustang TR-3650 transmission with hydraulic throwout bearing and got them shipped from the States. Also bought Ford Racing clutch kit and flat flywheel between them. Was thinking another destination but bought the car in early Spring and in the end of June decided to put these together. Got it "ready" in just under 5 weeks of work(weekends and after work).

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Only major body mod was to raise the lower edge of firewall to clear bellhousing when installing/removing transmission. Modified sump because I didn't want to modify crossmember. Moved lower end of steering column as far left as hole in the firewall allows and moved steering gear 1.5cm left as much as tie rod thread on the right side allows. Replaced brake booster with 90s GM Hydroboost and made 700/900 master cylinder fit to it. No power steering, steering pump is only for Hydroboost. Made exhaust manifolds and 2.5" Y-pipe to join with 3" pipe under rear floor.

Used MS2 V3 ecu that was lying around, stock engine harness, two VAG wasted spark coils, newer Mustang original Motorcraft EV14 injectors(cheap from Rockauto), older 960 fuel regulator with feed and return and custom fuel rails. Stock rails were damaged in transport. Injectors are ~600cc depending on source and part number CM5216. Replaced electric throttle body control with K-jet parts and stock cable.

The car itself received suspension, brake and some other parts from another car. Front coilovers with 500lbs 9" springs, adjustable shocks all round, polybushings, 305mm front brakes, 3" exhaust, 1031 with 3.54 gears and Truetrac, 24mm front and 19mm rear sway bars, etc. Repaired right skirt because of badly done damage repair and it had a dent again. Did also weigh the car and without the driver its 1370kg/3020lbs, 730kg front and 655kg rear with some tools in the trunk.

Dynoed it just to check adjustments and get some feel what sort of power it has. Engine is rated for 250hp(?). Dyno showed over 250hp 3900-5800rpm and 273hp@4680rpm. Soft limiter is 5800rpm and hard 6000. Torque is over 350Nm/258lb-ft between 2000-5300rpm and 451Nm/332lb-ft@3830rpm.

I've driven it on the road for some time, around 18 laps on the track and it's a blast. Suspension is great on the track and engine has nice wide range of use(would be nicer with more power on top). Hopefully having some more track time with it before winter.

Dyno pulls: https://youtu.be/W2onHRWIxj8

Track incar: https://youtu.be/0WJKbsDc_MA

Some pics of the build: https://lankku.kuvat.fi/kuvat/242+DL+-80+4.6/Laitot+2017/

Repair of the right skirt: https://lankku.kuvat.fi/kuvat/242+DL+-80+4.6/Peltihommat/

Unfortunately to make it fully roadlegal here it'll need a special permit which costs enough itself. But even if you'll make a good and thorough application it's not sure to if it'll be accepted. At least I can say that I've done this and it's not that big of a job :-P

Btw. Aux belt is S60/V70/S80 2.4D/D5 double sided. Perfect fit without AC.

Before engine swap and other minor adjustments:
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That's just awesome. There's another motor that fits with little modification. Not many have done a 4.6. Good job. :clap:
 
Cool swap! :)

I'm curious about the legality. A T6 was fine which has similar power? It has to do with displacement?
 
R?da said:
I'm curious about the legality. A T6 was fine which has similar power? It has to do with displacement?
Click to expand...
Regulations allow 20% increase compared to highest factory hp and 25% displacement increase compared to biggest. Anything over that requires special permission. Basically "T6" is fine as long as you use an engine which is rated to low hp. Therefore 170hp B6254S converted to 2.8l with 3l or T6 crank, T5/6 pistons and low boost can be dynoed to suitable numbers for street use.
 
Converted to E85 and dynoed it again. Not much of a difference but somewhat noticeable. Just 4-5hp and 13-15Nm more across the whole range. 5 degrees more timing was max. 7 gave same numbers and dropped a couple hp with 9. It's still a stock engine though.

Took it to another track(Ahvenisto) for a couple of laps with Polaris and Federal/Nankang semislicks. Which unsurprisingly are quite heavy compared to Galaxy and Hankook Ventus Prime2. Car worked fine, needs way more camber for track driving(and more power). Drove mostly on 3rd gear, 4th only on the main straight. Gearing didn't fit that well to this track as it did Botniaring. 2nd might've been better for coming out of tight corners but didn't want to rev it that much.

Two laps incar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwThX5xGxIk

And some hauling was done:
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Shell of a -90 745 GL which I converted to 2.5l "T6" with T6 turbos a couple years back. Sold it as a rolling chassis in the spring 2014. Picked it up last thursday after a couple of owners. Second owner did install a T6 and HX40 (which he bought from me :lol:) Those were transferred to a 240 by third and last before I got hold of it. Hasn't been on regular street use after I sold it. Had to install rear lights, tailgate and weatherstrips to doors to prevent water getting inside.

Just gotta take the opportunity when the price is right compared to the condition and papers :-P And luckily it still has the same adjustable rear shocks which I installed.
 
Thought I recognized the GM Hydroboost. :lol: I've often thought that would be a good idea for engine swaps. They're dirt common here and take up a lot less space than the vacuum servo and are generally very reliable.

Have you thought about making an adapter to the common Koyo electric steering column with the 2.5 turn guts for the manual ZF rack? Manual steering is a real bummer except on very skinny tires and ice.

Or have power steering & hydroboost with the MR2 power steering pump?
Often thought that in the modern days where robust electric accessories exist and 200A police alternators exist for the modular motor, it's possible to have all accessories be electric and save some engine bay packaging space...
 
I was going to buy a Hydroboost unit from Ebay but luckily found one faster locally. The sheer power difference compared to a regular booster is significant but it's made for much heavier cars so it's not that surprising.

Haven't seriously thought of power steering. Easiest way would be changing to an original power steering rack and adding lines. It's not heavy to steer the way it is now and is fine on track. Tires are only 205/55/16 and it wasn't bad with 215/45/17 semi slicks either. I've driven years with my 245 "B6284T" with a power steering rack without pump and even that isn't too heavy with same semis or same size street tires :)

What is the idea of using a MR2 pump? There is plenty of space for stock modular pump and it doesn't need brackets or such.

The way i've done this is the same as almost anything else. Which is as cost effective as possible without trying to complete cheapskate :lol: I don't know yet will I transfer the engine to a 745 or facelift 965 body(have both), keep it as is and drive it sometimes or try to sell the car as a complete. Keeping that in mind I won't be making big changes in the near future.
 
Very cool; thanks for sharing. Do you have any photos of the exhaust manifolds, particularly driver's side? Curious to see what you came up with, and how much clearance you had between the exhaust ports and stock location of the steering column.

I'm planning my own similar low-cost V8 swap, with a 3-valve 4.6L into a 245. The 3-valve is forgotten because it's not as cheap / common as the 2-valve, and it doesn't make as much power as the 4-valve. I got mine for a song but I think it will work nicely in the 240. I also plan to use some manner of hydroboost and likely will modify the oil pan to clear the rear of the crossmember. I may also look into finding a small diameter vacuum booster and making that fit somehow.
 
Well, i guess if My 02 F-150 w/ 4.6L ever gets wrecked I have a home for the motor in my 240.

Nice Work!:cheers:
 
Duder said:
Very cool; thanks for sharing. Do you have any photos of the exhaust manifolds, particularly driver's side? Curious to see what you came up with, and how much clearance you had between the exhaust ports and stock location of the steering column.

I'm planning my own similar low-cost V8 swap, with a 3-valve 4.6L into a 245. The 3-valve is forgotten because it's not as cheap / common as the 2-valve, and it doesn't make as much power as the 4-valve. I got mine for a song but I think it will work nicely in the 240. I also plan to use some manner of hydroboost and likely will modify the oil pan to clear the rear of the crossmember. I may also look into finding a small diameter vacuum booster and making that fit somehow.
Click to expand...
Did take some photos but they were so low quality that haven't uploaded them.

Making drivers side manifold was pretty easy. Passenger side is more difficult because of starter. Manifold has to come down between starter and crossmember. Had to make both manifolds in two parts. Two front cylinders in one piece and two rear in the other. No way to make them one piece if you want to install or remove them with engine in place. Made small flanges for all manifold pieces with just enough surface for sealant. One bolt on the outer edge of each flange and one shared in the middle. Exhaust side has a one piece 3-bolt flange.

As mentioned in the first post, lower end of steering column and rack are ~15mm/0.6" to the left. Also engine is a little to the right. I didn't move them because of exhaust manifold but for more clearance for the cylinder head. The edge of the head took contact with upper steering shaft joint and now it clears it with some room to move. I don't know if 3V heads are wider than 2V but it is something to think of. At least 4V heads are much wider. I don't know how much a Norwegian guy moved the steering column when he installed a 4V engine into a 240 some time ago. Topic of that car can be found somewhere here and other info elsewhere.

If you want to use a vacuum booster you might have to move it to where battery is originally. Only place where it isn't in the way or difficult to handle. Even now one Hydroboost banjo bolt is so close to the valve cover that I had to grind it down a bit. Stiffer engine mounts would help.

I chose 2V because if I want to make any RWD brick fully roadlegal here with a modular, it is the easiest option considering legislation and permits. And fitting it to a RWD engine bay is a little easier than 4V because of width. If not thinking about legality, getting more power out of a 2V is just a question of adding a suitable turbo. Stock rods, etc. can handle about the same power on all basic engines so it's not a big loss if base engine is milder. Just add more boost :)
 
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