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M47 flywheel bolt fell out

Just as an aside, I've found that timing gears are the perfect diameter to use as a driver for a RMS. Get the seal started, put the gear on it, gently tap in the center of the gear with a deadblow hammer, the seal goes right in.

You mean like a cam/aux gear off an 8v?
 
Yep, or a 16V. PVC pipe would probably work as well, if it's the right diameter. I just happened to have some gears laying around.
 
Yep, or a 16V. PVC pipe would probably work as well, if it's the right diameter. I just happened to have some gears laying around.

That's convenient! I'm not pulling the tranny until I need to. I haven't noticed anymore oil accumulating down there, now it's just a cracked heater hose spewing coolant:grrr: Pretty sure I have to pull the intake manifold to do those hoses, and I just had it off last night!
 
You don't have to take the intake off, but it would make it a be easier to do. Otherwise it's mostly blind fumbling work done by feel underneath it. But it's probably better than spending the time taking the intake off to make it a little easier.
 
You don't have to take the intake off, but it would make it a be easier to do. Otherwise it's mostly blind fumbling work done by feel underneath it. But it's probably better than spending the time taking the intake off to make it a little easier.

I don't mind pulling it, took about 30 minutes. I just ordered 2 new hoses and another intake manifold gasket so it'll be coming off soon. The more I take sh<z>it apart, the more I learn.

Under the intake I saw the temp sending unit, the ECT, the knock sensor and 1 other plug. Do you know what this one is?
The oily one under my single wire temp sender.
 
That's the knock sensor. Just for fun, Volvo has 2 or 3 of the same plugs on the harness in the same general vicinity. The knock sensor uses a shielded green wire.
 
That's the knock sensor. Just for fun, Volvo has 2 or 3 of the same plugs on the harness in the same general vicinity. The knock sensor uses a shielded green wire.

So on the head there's the ect and knock sensor that use the same connector (it appears that they do) then there's the temperature sending unit. I also saw a sensor that was lower on the block that's held in by 2 bolts, what is that?
 
The knock sensor isn't on the head, it's on the block. It's pictured above, black plastic with a bolt going right through the middle and into the block.
 
The knock sensor isn't on the head, it's on the block. It's pictured above, black plastic with a bolt going right through the middle and into the block.

Oops, yeah it's close to the head. The sensor I'm talking about it much lower on the block. I'll have to look at again next time I pull the intake off to see what it is.
 
Never mind I don't think it has any sensors. It just looks like a block off plate and its holding the wire loom, is that it's only purpose? I believe the green wire is for the AC.
 
Ah, that's not a sensor. That's just a dummy plate covering up the vestigial fuel pump location. That green wire leads to the A/C compressor clutch.
 
Yes. The car motors hadn't used a mechanical low pressure fuel pump for decades, but perhaps for other markets or boat motor usage, they left it in the blocks. Take it off and there's an eccentric on the int shaft.
 
Yes. The car motors hadn't used a mechanical low pressure fuel pump for decades, but perhaps for other markets or boat motor usage, they left it in the blocks. Take it off and there's an eccentric on the int shaft.

So there's another possibility for a leak? Yay.
 
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