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Pdx dl

Harlard said:
Meh, I promise no difference will be noticed.
Click to expand...

But jurbo is so much easier to mount on 90+ (once it's been milled flat and opened up).
Even if the 90+ 10hp increase over the early style is a farce, totally worth the upgrade just for ease of mounting... and for all the cracking that will inevitably happen.
 
It rotates 90deg forward in this pic and bolts to the bottom & right side of manifold (the right side bolt also goes through spark plug heat shield). [click for full size]
 
I need to install longer studs on the hot side of the turbo. I tried heating the cast iron housing with propane and backing out the stud with two nuts jammed together. Going to hose down with penetrating oil tonight. Would acetylene help? Do those weird stud tools that (I think) use an eccentric work?
 
Thx boss.

----

Need some help sorting my down pipe. Wish to connect the 3" V-band outlet from the ATP to the existing tubing. Need to check under the car to see what diameter the stock pipe is. Maybe 2.25"?

So, on Summit Racing we have a variety of 90* mandrel bends. Thought maybe a tighter 3" radius on top and a 6" radius on the bottom would clear things. Hopefully. Do I want stainless?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-10534/overview/

A stainless V-band top and bottom.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-694300

Braided, 12" long, flex pipe.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-8853/overview/

Not sure about heat wraps. Maybe this?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010127/overview/

Kind of struggling with the reducer. As mentioned, under the car want to take the 3" down to the factory pipe. Will measure to confirm diameter.

So then O2 bungs for the LH2.2 and wide band?

What else?

Plan to have first 90* on at start up. Drive it to the shop open pipe, have the exhaust guys fit it together.
 
LC4CARL said:
Thx boss.

----

Need some help sorting my down pipe. Wish to connect the 3" V-band outlet from the ATP to the existing tubing. Need to check under the car to see what diameter the stock pipe is. Maybe 2.25"?

So, on Summit Racing we have a variety of 90* mandrel bends. Thought maybe a tighter 3" radius on top and a 6" radius on the bottom would clear things. Hopefully. Do I want stainless?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-10534/overview/

A stainless V-band top and bottom.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-694300

Braided, 12" long, flex pipe.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aph-8853/overview/

Not sure about heat wraps. Maybe this?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010127/overview/

Kind of struggling with the reducer. As mentioned, under the car want to take the 3" down to the factory pipe. Will measure to confirm diameter.

So then O2 bungs for the LH2.2 and wide band?

What else?

Plan to have first 90* on at start up. Drive it to the shop open pipe, have the exhaust guys fit it together.
Click to expand...

Call Dan Crandall and have him sort ya out
 
E2609719-9158-44BB-AF3C-E93094642438-M.jpg
 
Making the exhaust really isn't very hard, you don't need a good welder as long as you have a can of paint. Used a mandrel bending solutions kit for my whole exhaust. Also KLRacing has full turbo exhaust kits I think.
 
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