Thread: 164RS project
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:41 PM   #9
john r h
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2009

Front suspension

All the new bushes are fitted to the wishbones and here they are in primer

Front cross-member has been sprayed satin black

And here's Steve dismantling one of the front hub assemblies, prior to refurb

Front cross-member refitted, and part-way through assembly.

I'm glad I went for satin black rather than the original light grey; looks better in black in my opinion.

Using extra shims at the top wishbone mounts, I have dialed in some negative camber (approx 1.5 to 2 degrees) and quite a lot of postive caster angle... I'm determined this is one 164 which won't understeer! The set-up is a guess at this stage. When it's up and running, I'll get the angles measured and equalised, then suss out how it handles and adjust it from there.

You can see that the top wishbone pivot is no longer parallel with the turret (the rear mounting bolt is shimmed more than the front one, to increase the caster angle). To avoid any undesirable stresses on the top wishbone pivot bar, I made and fitted some wedge-shape shims so that everything still bolts up tight and square.

The shiny black is waxoyl. Not very pretty, but this car is built to be used a lot and I want to avoid it going rusty as long as I can!

Lower wishbones fitted

Steve de-rusting the brake backing plates


Fitting and wiring the kill-switch into the dash

Front suspension

Here are the hub uprights and the anti-roll bar refurbished and ready to fit.

Springs, dampers and uprights refitted,

Steering being reassembled

Anti-roll bar and droplinks refitted (it is a 25mm IPD bar)


I've had several really lengthy sessions making brake pipes. I had to reposition the junction box for the front brakes because moving the radiator back (to allow for the intercooler) clashes with the original location. I fitted it on top of the chassis rail under the master cylinder. My relocation meant that all pipes had to be made from scratch with no patterns to work to. I wanted to make them look as neat as possible, and doing that takes a long time!

The brake pipe tool, which is a cheap and effective peice of kit.

Bending using the vice (I don't have a pipe bender unfortunately).

This shows the front/rear junction box fitted and piped to the master cylinder. Pipes for the front circuits in progress.

Front circuits finished (except for flexi pipes). I used the steering idler as a "clamp" for the brake pipes because it has a gap behind it which is exactly right to hold, but not crush them.

Trial fit of rear circuits. These will be neatened up and fitted properly later on, after the underside of the floorpan has been repainted.

Back plates refurbished and ready to fit. I am just waiting for new wheel-bearing oil seals to arrive, then I can completely finish the reassembly of the front cross-member.

Calipers refurbed; I fitted new dust covers because they were distorted but I choose not to dismantle the calipers at this stage; the brakes work fine and all pistons move freely. (I do have some new piston seals, in case I have any problems in future).


Steve is doing a great job of removing old underseal from the floorpan. I hope he can get it out of his hair!

I'm making a plywood rear shelf to provide a strong mounting for 6x9 speakers. (Wood is not my best skill area, we don't really have tools for wood and I can confirm that plywood smokes a lot when cut with the angle grinder!)

Original parcel shelf cover cut to accommodate the seat belt covers and the speakers.

This will be fitted as a cosmetic trim over the top of the plywood shelf... here's a mock up:

The seatbelt boxes and the speaker grills will all be sprayed satin black to make them less obtrusive.

March 09. Phew, that's the catch-up done... thanks to anyone who waded through this far!


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