• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Removing MAF wires from plug.

TurboDenny

Why am I here?
Joined
Nov 6, 2014
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Currently in the middle of a +t on my '89 244, and I've come to the point of relocating the MAF. Does anyone know how to remove the wires from the plug itself. I'd rather not cut anything if I don't have to.
 
They make special terminal tools for depinning and repinning connectors. You might have to find the right one that works for that connector.
 
^^ that is the best option, however...

you can also file down a paper clip or some other small pick-like instrument (so it is flat, not round) and carefully deflect the tab that holds the metal contact in the plastic housing.
 
The later pins found in LH 2.4 plugs will be more difficult than earlier ones. Earlier ones have only one barb that needs to be pushed in and a simple sharp pick can easily work. Later pins like yours will have two barbs and you must depress both at the same time. It can be hard, but can be done with two sharp picks. The proper tool is shown below for the later type, but not cheap. Generally about $40.
Dave B.
 

Attachments

  • juniortimer2.jpg
    juniortimer2.jpg
    4.1 KB · Views: 99
  • jpt-tool.jpg
    jpt-tool.jpg
    27.1 KB · Views: 98
I think you are making this too difficult. Either way you are going to have to splice extra wire in. Just use high quality crimp splices or solder and a good shrink tube. Offset your splices so they don't form a big clump.
 
Last edited:
I think you are making this too difficult. Either way your going to have to splice extra wire in. Just use high quality crimp splices or solder and a good shrink tube. Offset your splices so they don't form a big clump.

You won't have to splice anything if you can pull the wires out all the way back to the firewall grommet. But I agree that splicing isn't a big deal.
 
You won't have to splice anything if you can pull the wires out all the way back to the firewall grommet. But I agree that splicing isn't a big deal.

And then how do you take car of the computer side of the harness? Seems like a lot of work for no reason.
 
And then how do you take car of the computer side of the harness? Seems like a lot of work for no reason.

You'd leave the ECU side all connected, and just pull the wires through the sheath, just up to the firewall grommet point. Then just run the wires on the passenger side of the engine bay to where your AMM will now be.

Really though, either way seems like about the same mount of work for a very similar result.
 
You'd leave the ECU side all connected, and just pull the wires through the sheath, just up to the firewall grommet point. Then just run the wires on the passenger side of the engine bay to where your AMM will now be.

Really though, either way seems like about the same mount of work for a very similar result.

Yeah but you still need a splice if you do that.
 
No need, stock AMM wires are long enough for +T. I splice only sensor ground wire and connect it at intake manifold. Maybe not needed?

Small screwdriver works when removing pin.

It's either splice or remove the pins, I don't think it's possible to move them otherwise. I opened two harnesses to avoid splicing, spent two hours playing with a ball of wires, but at the volvo factory they criss crossed some wires, they can't be separated properly. At least not in the two I inspected.
 
After realizing the ground wire has multiple splits throughout the harness I just decided to cut the plug off and pull them through. Splice into the ground wire at the firewall and solder the rest. Boom.
 
After realizing the ground wire has multiple splits throughout the harness I just decided to cut the plug off and pull them through. Splice into the ground wire at the firewall and solder the rest. Boom.

This is the most painless option by far. Wish I had, instead of ending up in a labyrinth, and having to re-sleeve everything in the engine bay.
 
This is the most painless option by far. Wish I had, instead of ending up in a labyrinth, and having to re-sleeve everything in the engine bay.

definitely the easiest route.

Since I didn't quite make my goal of attending a car show this weekend, I will likely be making a new harness and adding a mil-spec connector at the firewall. Oh well.
 
After realizing the ground wire has multiple splits throughout the harness I just decided to cut the plug off and pull them through. Splice into the ground wire at the firewall and solder the rest. Boom.

Also what I did on my 140, only I just ran the ground from the AMM straight to the chassis ground by the passenger headlight.
 
I have had fairly good luck with Bobby pins. Scrape off the plastic bulbs at the ends and bend both ends inwards so they look like tweezers. Gently push into the end of the plug and gentle pull on the wire, it usually comes right out.
 
Back
Top