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Charisma.

Brake master cylinder apears to be going out. The pedal slowly sinks at a stop with light pedal pressure. Sourcing an ABS master should be fun. Borrowing a cam shim kit from a buddy, I’m hoping incorrect valve lash is contributing to, or causing the rough idle that has plagued this car since I bought it back. The guy who had it for a while put a B cam in it. Planning building the exhaust this weekend.
 
Threw together an exhaust, turned out alright. Like usual, there are a few things I’d do differently if I did it again.
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I also checked valve lash and discovered one valve was .002” too tight. Yah that’s a little bit of a bummer because I still don’t know why this thing idles like garbage.
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I got a brake master from O’riellys. Guess I’m doing that this weekend. I have some stainless braided brake lines I have been meaning to put on. Anything else brake related you guys think I should check/do while I have the system open?
 
Buy motive pressure bleeder and never look back. I just bought one after borrowing a buddies, had the 245 bled in 20 minutes, by myself. Totally worth it.
 
Met a really nice guy named Luke got an m47, STS flywheel, pedal box, front shaft, and a clutch cable. Making a shopping list for the ipd garage sale.
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Replaced master cylinder and installed braided brake lines. Feels so much better!
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Decided to toss together a strut tower brace with some material I have had laying around for years.
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You got to be careful with the new style clutch cables, they like to stiffen up and bend the firewall plate. Kjets on a Plane might have a used old style version for sale.
 
Went to hop in the whip to make a beer run and the door handle broke. None of the near by junkyards had a 240 so I gave welding it a go. It worked but omg was that material nasty. Reinstalled and it’s operational, should probably pick up a spare Incase it breaks again.
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Most are wise enough to pull the springs and cycle the suspension while building an over axle exhaust. I on the other hand, like doing things twice. Pan hard rod would contact the exhaust about a half inch before bump stops. Re-did the exhaust and have plenty of clearance now.
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Nice work!! Glad to see you chomping away on this thing again. Let me know when you are ready for the long travel setup in the front. Pretty sure we can do center mounted arms off a new crossmember and make it drive well.

I also like doing things two times......it doesn't get better with age.

Sean
 
Nice work!! Glad to see you chomping away on this thing again. Let me know when you are ready for the long travel setup in the front. Pretty sure we can do center mounted arms off a new crossmember and make it drive well.

I also like doing things two times......it doesn't get better with age.

Sean


I've wanted to do a long travel setup in the front for a while now, but I never could figure out where the rear pivot points would go. Front pivot is easy, you could even use the stock Kmember with some modifications. But those rear bushings that you've been fighting with, I never could come up with a design for it.

Unless you went with a 7/9 style control arm with a stay rod, but even then, the pivot point has to be on the same plane as the front.

Idk, if someone figures it out it'll be you lol
 
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