• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

Just another B234FT Conversion..

Don't be worry about the exhaust valves. If you start the engine ones there will be add carbon between exhaust valves and exhaust seat. This can't be close enough to seal it against brake cleaner. While running the carbon will be destroyed because of hammering of valves and speed of hammering. If you have a really good torch light try to have a look if the light is shining from exhaust port. if the valves don't shine like a sickle ")" like the moon at the beginning or end of his period, don't worry.
The polished parts of your liners from left to right site I don't like either.
if I remember right you wrote that this engine didn't start at the beginning. There will be add fuel to much and this fuel washed out the oil between liners and pistons.
A new rebuild engine that won't start but add fuel is the worst ****ty thing.
good luck, Kay
 
So... I've lapped the most leaking one over and over again.. Still leaking brakecleaner... the intake valves do seal.. sounds like new seats, guides, the whole programm??
 
Uhm? Irony i didn't get? :) Cause im also still on the belief that you can't bend valves when you turn it by hand... not like a retard for sure.. its like turning... turning.. uh.. impact.. now.. a little bit.. more.. *tock* and not like cranking the **** out @ the pulley with a 2 metre prybar ;)
 
Hey Maddog, do you know the diameter of shaft of valve?
if you try to lap them, you have already dismantled the Head. It is really easy to check if they are bent or not.
It is really easy to check the play between shaft and valve by hand too.

May be I can have a look on your head, if i have the right tool for they shaft I can even check and regrind your seats very easy at your workshop.
Sent me a PM with your e-mail address.

Happy Day, Kay
 
OMG

Hi MadDog,

first of all you got my sympathy for the sh*** that happened. You seem to be a bit clueless at the moment, therefore I registered myself, maybe I can help a bit. Here what my thought's are:

- you wrote that the Hydro's are clickering like hell, are you sure, that the noise came from them? Maybe you heard the valves hitting the pistons.
- Due to the acceleration forces the piston receives while reving, the upper position of the piston changes a few 1/100mm within higher rpm's. This might lead to a slightly contact above xxxx 1/min. You remember Stoni? He had this tight squish project, at 5000 1/min the valves touched the pistons (8V). In other words, I dont believe that these marks on all four pistons came from turning the engine by hand whilst the valves touched the pistons.

You can easily check if the valves are bend, takee a look: http://www.gs-classic.de/tipps/vent_04.htm

The 4th picture from above. All you need is a prism and a dial gauge. After that you will have certainty. I Would not mind about the brake cleaner leackage at the moment.

Take care,

Steve

P.S.: You where right, my engine has not reached 250HP on the dyno....but 248 :-)
 
hehe cool to see you here :)


Yeah.. i know that pistons reach higher positions while revving in higher rpm ranges.. but the rassling was almost gone after a few km..

Funny thing is.. the valves with hitmarks are sealing well.. the exhaust valves without marks are the ones who leak.. So when the intake ones should have hit while running they shouldnt seal like they do.. besides that i may have turned them while the spring was disassembled which could explain the marks going all the way around on some valves and on some not...
 
Ok, we both definitely do not know which mark a valve will leave on the piston while the engine is turned by hand with a disassembled valve spring....so if the outlet valves are the ones you are concerned about, just check them for bending and the play in the guidance. If both fits, I would ignore this. Remember, the valves get the pressure of the combustion chamber too AND the outlet valves have to divert their heat through the sealing/seat surface to the cylinder head, in order not to get burned. This has not happened yet...so I would say, no problem here.

Keeping in mind what a hell of work it is to dismount the head, get yourself a "Ruck" and get the head to a machine shop to get the valve sealings/seats changed, only to eliminate the possibility that there may be a problem...only a suggestion :-)

Steve
 
Last edited:
Hi
Without feeling the pistons, it's hard to say what play is in it, -- I reccon the inlet valves touched the pistons, so either re machine the piston heads or use a thicker head gasket. How much play in the valve stems of the exhaust side? If there is too much play, you will never be able to lap them perfectly tight. -- I send you pm anyway.
Seems to me its time for stock taking --- where to go from here --
Best of success, Hans
BTW.: mine is running like a Singer sawing machine.
 
Ok.... well.... I'm extremely Pissed now...


Disassembled the head Yesterday.. Edelschrott...

All guides are bend, some valves had to be forced out of the guides, some had a **** load of play in the guide, all inlet Valves have heavy marks on their shafts and look like sandblasted and.. ...yes...


So.. Have the seats regrinded, new guides, all new Valves + wages to get it done 700€? yeah.. .. i'm pissed...
 
Guides bent; I don't believe it. Worn out and sloppy certainly but not bent. Sounds to me like it ran with bent valves and the valves partially seized in the guides.

Question is, what did it do to the cam lobes? I also suggest you get the cam journals measured for ovality before stuffing new guides in that head.

I take it oil was getting to the top of the engine?
 
Guides bent; I don't believe it. Worn out and sloppy certainly but not bent. Sounds to me like it ran with bent valves and the valves partially seized in the guides.

Question is, what did it do to the cam lobes? I also suggest you get the cam journals measured for ovality before stuffing new guides in that head.

I take it oil was getting to the top of the engine?

Yeah.. the guides feel like a banana.. if you turn the valves in them it is stuck on 12h and turns free on 6h.. you know what i mean? ;)

And yep.. oil was coming.
 
Thx for the offer.. i have 4 16v heads here in my workshop.. but every one of them just jacked out of junked cars...

my head is @ the engineshop now.. they will have a look if there is something to rescue...
 
Back
Top