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Project - Georgia Coupe

Update
Earlier I had posted a pic of brass tool for cleaning the tips of the injectors. As you may or may not know the tip of the injector has tiny valve stem in it with a spring, very similar to an engine valve stem and spring. The stem has to sit flush in the seat to prevent the fuel from leaking out in dribbles in drops. The pic is to help others understand how I used it. You gently lift the stem off of the seat and rotate the injector trying to clean any small traces of varnish that may impede the stem from seating flush. The other end of the tool can also be used to clean around the seat and the other area of the injector. Hope the pic helps.<a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/nel6211/media/Georgia%20coupe/fuel%20injectors%20brass%20tool_zpsfu3q5xby.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh77/nel6211/Georgia%20coupe/fuel%20injectors%20brass%20tool_zpsfu3q5xby.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo fuel injectors brass tool_zpsfu3q5xby.jpg"/></a>
 
And now for the really good news! I wasn't happy with how the injectors were spraying so they got one more cleaning with the brass tool and the pump bottle. This time I filled the container with brake clean fluid. One note to everyone. Do this outside, the fumes from the diesel, painter thinner and brake clean will give you headache and worse. A good respirator is best. I have one but got lazy and didn't use it and yes I started to get a headache.
Now with the brake cleaner in the pump tool I put all the injectors through the test again, fast pumping to quickly push the chemical through the injector. This gave me a satisfactory atomization on all of the injectors. There were no dribbles or drips, leaks. The hold pressure was around 40 psi on some and less on others with the injectors losing hold pressure very slowly. I can't tell if it was the injectors or maybe the brass fitting on the tool. I think I forgot to wrap the threads in teflon tape so maybe I had small air leak. But I had no fluid leak which is what I was after. Anxious to get moving and satisfied to my liking I decided to reinstall the injectors. Got everything buttoned up and gave the key a turn. Some hard cranking for nothing. Keeping in mind that there is very little gas in the car I tried again. This time it coughed and sputtered but no go. Sensing I was getting close I gave it one more try and it started. Feathered the gas pedal a little to keep things going and it finally smoothed out. IT RUNS! I have 2 dash lights on one is the SOND light and the other is brake failure. I think I know the brake failure one. Need to figure out what the Sond is all about. Anyone know?
So throwing caution to the wind I decided to back out of the driveway. First it didn't move. Duh! had a block wood behind one tire. Then backing up and using the hand brake I made it out. Leaving my street I need to go uphill a bit and the car wouldn't go. Well the only fliud i forgot to check was tranny fluid. Ran back into the garage, found a bottle of fluid and a funnel and topped it up. IT MOVES! With no plates, no brakes took it for a short drive. Shifts smoothly, engine sounds strong, no loud engine cam noise. Went to get some gas and came back. Very happy. Next up is to change the oil and filter again. This time it gets Mobile 1 synthetic and drain the radiator of the water and add antifreeze.
It's looking like this car will get a cosmetic make over in the future. Now to get the other 81 coupe running.
 
Congratulations!

There is a mechanical device behind the dash to turn on the Lambda light that is manually reset when the sensor is changed.

The O2 sensors of that era were on a 25k routine maintenance cycle. When warm the lead from the sensor should read 0.7v or slightly higher. Without that 0.7v you need a new sensor.
 
If the car was running on dino oil you may want to think twice about the switch to synth. The detergent properties on new synth are quite good. On older engines it's not uncommon for teeny/tiny passages in old/brittle gaskets and seals to have sludge/debris "sealing" them that gets cleaned out by the better detergents - and voila - you have a small (or big) leak where you had none before. And switching back doesn't cure the leak. Pretty common complaint when switching an old one to synth.
 
This era PRV engine has a history of making the cam lobes round due to limited oiling. The enhanced lubricating properties of synthetic oil over dino oil is just what this engine needs. With only 28k miles there should not be a real issue with leakage.
 
Thanks for the input. All is not completely rosy. I noticed that if I let it SIT for a while it needs more cranking to get it going. So something is wrong. I don't think it is the injectors. As I said earlier they did not leak. But they also did not hold rest pressure very long either which I blame on a leak in the tool. Maybe??? About the oil change, need some input. Should I just go ahead and change it now or wait to put few miles on the car? I did consider the possibility of a leak if changing over to synth. so i have both at the ready.
Went over all of the accessories. All of the lights, radio, wipers, window, switches, etc. work. Yeah. Only the small clock doesn't work but I'm sure I have one somewhere. Also the ac compressor kick on and the unit blows cool air not warm. What a surprise there. No more work today. Tomorrow I'll revisit the brakes and maybe the oil depending on the feedback I get. You don't know how relieved I am right now.
 
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Great to hear you got it running, now you can start working the kinks out slowly with the peace of mind that you have a running driving car! I put mobil 1 synthetic in the 67' Amazon, I considered the oil leak issue, but out ruled it. Hopefully the switch to synthetic doesn't cause leaks, since currently it does not leak oil at all that i have seen in the two months since I bought it! On talks of leaks, I think it does have a leak from the exhaust manifold.

My mind is absolutely blown that you were able to get that car up and down that insane hill by your house!
 
OK.Car starts right up. Good thing. While it was running I put it up on jack stands to check out by brake issue. I did notice I can hear a slight cricket/buzzing sound. Maybe my so called 'new" in tank pump is on its way out? Still don't think this causing my hard warm start issue. Gathering parts to make pressure tool ala TestPoint.
 
<a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/nel6211/media/Georgia%20coupe/pressure%20gauge%20001_zpsak0qaw23.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh77/nel6211/Georgia%20coupe/pressure%20gauge%20001_zpsak0qaw23.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo pressure gauge 001_zpsak0qaw23.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s253.photobucket.com/user/nel6211/media/Georgia%20coupe/pressure%20gauge%20002_zps8g089bhg.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh77/nel6211/Georgia%20coupe/pressure%20gauge%20002_zps8g089bhg.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo pressure gauge 002_zps8g089bhg.jpg"/></a>
 
So a little more progress today. Been dealing with a no brake pedal issue. Finally got the Motive Brake bleeder to hold some pressure and went around the entire car including the MC and now i have brakes again.:) Took it for a spin around the neighborhood to bed the pads and also get some of the surface rust off of the rotors. I still have a brake failure light though.:-( I know it has to do with the "sliding" switch in the front proportioning valve, something about it not being centered. What would be the best way of centering it without having to bleed the brakes all over again? Next up is using my new tool to test the control pressure regulator. At least the car is back on the ground now, yeah!
 
Dang I read all about that re centering doing the 164 brakes a few years back-I don't recall the procedure but pretty sure I found it on K-jet.something. I lucked out and didn't have to do that.
 
Update
Put the gauge on it but the car does not hold pressure. What I did was to connect the gauge then started the car and let it run for a while. The running pressure was up around 60 psi. Once the car was off the gauge slowly but not that slow went down to about 18 psi.Then finally down to zero. Still not sure if it is the control pressure regulator or the fuel accumulator. talking to my mechanic friend, his money is on the accumulator. Granted he is only going by what I have reported. Interesting enough it would start right up after I let it sit. ???? Didn't do anything about the brake failure light yet. For those who know, can I just have someone sit in the car then open one end of the "octopus" and see if an assistant notices the light go out. If not then try going from the other side. Your thoughts please.
On a side note, moved some cars around so now the coupe is out of the driveway. :)
 
Old Iron said:
It lives!
Click to expand...

Yes. It was my goal to at least have it moving and stopping under its own power BEFORE the really cold weather moved in. The pressure test, brake light and other things that will need attention are not so critical right now. i will keep working on it as the time and weather permit but I really want to get back on my 79 coupe and finish the body work.
 
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