• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

What clutch fork with hydraulic T5 swap?

Essentially guess & check. With the trans out of the car, I mocked up the pivot ball spacing on the bellhousing only which was easy to mount up to the block a number of times. IIRC the slave cyl has ~.75 - 1" of stroke length with the stock clutch master cyl. As long as the initial position of the slave cyl piston is set so that it does not pop out of the bore at the end of the stroke, you will be ok. When setting up my pivot ball spacing, I allowed for ~1/2" of additional compression at the initial setting (to account for disc wear). Here is a pic of what it looks like at "rest".
Af26F0Zl.jpg


One item of note: after a certain point, spacing out the pivot ball will prevent the clutch fork from being removed with the trans in the car. Putting the shcs in the end of the clutch fork (as TLAO showed) eliminates this issue if it matters to you.
 
I put a few extra washers behind the pivot ball on mine to space it out a little bit and then I set my fork up to be basically 90 degrees out from the plane of the axis of the center of the race wagon. I took a bolt and rounded off the ends and it's a bit longer then the stock rod to get the fork where I wanted it. First time I ever did a getrag install at the drags my trans was sticking with the clutch engaged and slipping. Took me a while to figure out that the fork was pushing so far it was then wedging on the throw out and staying there so the clutch was not going back. I fixed that by spacing out the pivot ball and longer slave to fork rod and I put a block of wood under the clutch pedal as I was pushing it too far.


getragslave.jpg


I notice in all these pics, the slave lock ring is in the same spot with the ring holes! The dirt everywhere is when I went off roading up in the hills above scappoose last winter. You only need that rubber fork boot if you do that.

Pic of JohnV flywheel with the saab areo 9000 pressure plate and BMW Z3 clutch disc. 240mm or 9.5 inches.
saab240.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok well today I just order the m46 and m90 fork from the local dealer, they should be here by Thursday but I doubt I will have the time to pull the trans until this weekend. Once I get it all apart I can see how each fit and work out and then start the welding and grinding to make it work with the T5 Bearing.

I might also reinforce that one like Toby did (not quite that extreme) just to keep it from flexing again with this stiff pressure plate.

And that gives me either a Spare or one to sell when someone needs one right away.

Thanks for the pics and the info.
 
thelostartof said:
Well I found my failure

rps20180602_095605_340.jpg
Click to expand...

Harald!! This is what I was talking about, I noticed cracks on the pivot dimple, so I took a 3/4" flat washer, I laid the washer on top of the dimple, spot welded the middle of it, tapped it down while it was still cherry red, and welded the edge of it as reinforcement.
 
Last edited:
@Uncleknuckles
How many miles on your Viggen pp before the cracks showed up in the clutch fork? Was your clutch fork new when you put it in?
 
Good eye for the bend, it also looks like the metal has some odd marks on it, they didn't wipe off with some hard scrubbing, No chemicals on it to try to clean off, almost looks like stress marks

rps20180604_214333_512.jpg


rps20180604_214355_567.jpg
 
Well let me be the first to second that plan. I can tell you that just the annoyance of the welding I had to do on the new fork to hope it all works out and lasts already is making me want to go to an internal TO bearing design and ditch the fork setup. Who knows if the added materials I put on will last, I guess in 20k miles I will have to pull the trans and check.

Heck you could also just take an off the shelf unit and make it work for our setups and resell that.
 
I know it would have cost more but the RHD fork and Ben's adapters would have been a bolt on solution, no welding required (unless you want to reinforce the ball socket).

1058534.jpg


cableshiftblocks_1024x1024.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top