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AQ130 (B20) rebuild for a 122

sspony

sspony

Active member
Joined
May 15, 2012
Location
Maryland
Hello all!
About to take on a new project and thought I'd get a thread going for some questions I have now and all of the other ones that will certainly come up!

Here's the backstory...
I have a 65' 122s with the b18 and 4spd trans. I've done a full tuneup and upgraded to electronic ignition and higher flowing air filters. The car is a dog, as in I can only go 35mph up steep mountains. I did a compression test on the motor and all of my numbers were in the 80's and 90's. Checked the valve adjustment and they were decent. So I decided a rebuild or engine upgrade was in order. I picked up a late 60's/early 70's AQ130 (a B20 in a boat). It didn't run but rotated freely.

Current...
I started tearing the b20 down last night. Lots of corrosion in the coolant passages. The cylinders are also covered in junk (dirt/corrosion I believe). The head looks pretty rough around the valve faces as well. I'll try to post pics/measurements of the bore this weekend.

So the plan for the block was to hot tank, hone, re-ring, all new bearings and seals. For the head I wanted to hot tank, hardened valve seats and 3-angle valve job.

I'm hoping to increase my horsepower to a drive able level while keeping it low budget. This does not need to be a race car. Peppy is good enough. Reliability is important.

First question, any recommendations for the build? Should I consider upgrading the cam? Seems to be an expensive option.
Secondly, what are the main differences between the marine and auto versions of the b20? Have any of you done this swap?
Finally what's the best way to deal with all of the corrosion?

If you want more info here a thread that explains the journey so far...
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=310252&page=4

Thanks!
 
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The Volvo puller is the way to get the gears off...or a simple 3 jaw for the cam gear and you'll have to fab a puller for the crank gear (a steering wheel puller does work). Head work has been covered to death...and is a good idea. Tinus Tuning's TT4 or KG Trimning KG-17 is what I usually do for "wake up" cams.
 
Stock D cam for streetness.

What fuel system are you going with? Carbs. Kjets djets turbojets 11000rpm jets?

Aaaand what gearing is in your rear end?

If you're doing a reliable budget build. Just state 0 everything and don't worry about any fancy pants headwork.
 
Canuck said:
The Volvo puller is the way to get the gears off...or a simple 3 jaw for the cam gear and you'll have to fab a puller for the crank gear (a steering wheel puller does work). Head work has been covered to death...and is a good idea. Tinus Tuning's TT4 or KG Trimning KG-17 is what I usually do for "wake up" cams.
Click to expand...

I use a 3 jaw for steel or aluminum cam gears... hammer for fiber:-P

The crank... thats a fun one, it has 2 holes that are threaded, and the steering wheel puller works great, but if you dont have one, a 2 jaw puller with L brackets bolted to the gear works well.

Head work alone (3 angle valve job, cleaned up intake ports, and exhaust restriction removed) will wake up the boat motor, but the cam will bring on the pep. The KG-17 ^ plays nice with SU's, but if you're budget is super tight a D cam will be better than the boat cam, not much, but better. If you have a little bit of cash the schneider cams are pretty sweet. Personally I like to rev the piss out of these old pushrod blocks, so my first choice would be a schneider 264F or 274F depending on other mods. For a streeter, the 264F is probably the better choice.
 
I have a D cam with 10:1 or so compression with some light porting in my little old B18. Not exactly a powerhouse but makes for a fun drive. Nice wide powerband pulls nicely from a little below 2000 well past 6000.. I can easily maintain 60mph going up long 12% grades in 4th gear. 4.56 rear end helps there.
 
carbonmike said:
I have a D cam with 10:1 or so compression with some light porting in my little old B18. Not exactly a powerhouse but makes for a fun drive. Nice wide powerband pulls nicely from a little below 2000 well past 6000.. I can easily maintain 60mph going up long 12% grades in 4th gear. 4.56 rear end helps there.
Click to expand...

the 4.56 rear will def bring on the pep :-P
 
carbonmike said:
Sometimes I feel like it pulls harder in 2nd than in 1st. In 1st gear it seems to take more energy to get the flywheel going than the rest of the car.
Click to expand...

yeah, first is just for smoke,but second... Its just tall enough to use the whole power band...

Its kinda weird now that I'm running boost through it, I thought that I'd just be rippin out of first, but I can just barely get the boost going, like 5psi by 5500, but second I can roll into the throttle from 5mph, and hold 8psi from 2500, its almost like the turbo knows that first is useless :rofl:
 
Wow, awesome response so far! Forgot how much I appreciated/enjoyed this site.

Anyway I'll be home shortly and will snap some pics of the crusty motor haha. Also taking a caliper to the cylinders.

As for the crank gear, it's kinda weird I'll get a pic.
 
IMG_0016.jpg

TimingGear.jpg
 
The crank gear has three holes in the face. Unthreaded if I remember correctly.

Edit: yup that's it in the second pic.
 
cwdodson88 said:
yeah, first is just for smoke,but second... Its just tall enough to use the whole power band...

Its kinda weird now that I'm running boost through it, I thought that I'd just be rippin out of first, but I can just barely get the boost going, like 5psi by 5500, but second I can roll into the throttle from 5mph, and hold 8psi from 2500, its almost like the turbo knows that first is useless :rofl:
Click to expand...

With a N/A B-18, the only smoke I am going to make is if my head gasket goes.
:)
 
sspony said:
The crank gear has three holes in the face. Unthreaded if I remember correctly.

Edit: yup that's it in the second pic.
Click to expand...

ok, I forgot that theres the sleeve blocking the holes a bit, when I took my crank to the machine shop they somehow got the sleeve off... in your case a jaw puller will work, but you need to take the crank out of the block (attaching the flywheel to the crank and setting the crank nose up using the flywheel as a base), then I would hit the gear with a little heat, then as it cools fill the sleeve with PBlaster, and the 3 jaw puller, but remember that the sleeve will come off the crank too and you DO NOT want to scratch or chunk it up.
 
I removed the cam gear by backing off the nut and tapping on the cam. Then putting spacers between the gear and the bearing plate as it slides off. Failure to do so could shift the cam out of the bearings or hit the freeze plug behind it. This will probably bend the brass bearing plate, but that should be replaced anyway.

I removed my crank pulley with a DIY puller, just some bar stock with some holes drilled it it. Two bolts to thread into the gear. If I remember correctly I just backed out the bolt in the crank to push the gear off.

All redneck solutions. Not ideal but it will all work with basic tools.
 
cwdodson88 said:
ok, I forgot that theres the sleeve blocking the holes a bit, when I took my crank to the machine shop they somehow got the sleeve off... in your case a jaw puller will work, but you need to take the crank out of the block (attaching the flywheel to the crank and setting the crank nose up using the flywheel as a base), then I would hit the gear with a little heat, then as it cools fill the sleeve with PBlaster, and the 3 jaw puller, but remember that the sleeve will come off the crank too and you DO NOT want to scratch or chunk it up.
Click to expand...

I was able to get my sleeve off with very little force. I think I used a wide putty knife to start it, then a chunk of brass to pry it off the rest of the way.
 
carbonmike said:
With a N/A B-18, the only smoke I am going to make is if my head gasket goes.
:)
Click to expand...

lol, I found it pretty head turning when my b18 was NA to try some burnouts at the local car club events..... anything under 3500 and dumping the clutch and I'd just barely chirp a tire, trying to brakestand was useless unless I hit it at 4k.
 
cwdodson88 said:
lol, I found it pretty head turning when my b18 was NA to try some burnouts at the local car club events..... anything under 3500 and dumping the clutch and I'd just barely chirp a tire, trying to brakestand was useless unless I hit it at 4k.
Click to expand...

I have a dry rotted spare that is probably original. I bet I could burn that up.
 
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