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The Buchka 242 Fake Racecar

Cool! Any pics of the balance shaft wackiness?

Thanks!

-Ryan

You dont ever want to see deep enough inside to get into that balance shaft. Just plain no fun to do in the car & they dont pay you to pull it out. Im jealous that he gets to really play with a b8444s. We dont see to many thru the shop. I can confirm that they sound nasty w/o the exhaust hooked up. You have to drop a section to replace the rack on a XC90. Always get started before i reinstall.

I'll assume you are going to fab an intake to rework the stock ETM being at the rear. And that dopey 3200RPM intake runner switchover. Very nice build.
 
Nice fitment

Oh_No_You_Didn__t.jpg
 
Wow. So simple. I need to do this to the stock GTE VVTi cams to figure out what they're closest to since nobody seems to have info on those cams. Pretty neat for basic tools.

Just keep in mind that this shows lobe lift (valve lift if you tack on lash) and rudimentary data for duration. Since it is measured with a single point tool instead of with a lifter the curve doesn't show an accurate representation of the actual valve movement.

Also it is worth noting that I measured lift at discrete angular displacement. This works fine for when you're on the heft of the lobe, but it doesn't deliver enough resolution at really low lifts if you want to see acceleration and jerk numbers. You can see how noisy the data is at the base circle to lobe blending curve. It would have been better to measure angular displacement at discrete lift points. I opted for the dumb option since all I have is a junky chinese 0.001" dial indicator and an equally junky harbor freight degree wheel.

I mainly wanted to compare the intake and exhaust profiles so, in my opinion, the method I used is good enough.
 
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Yeah, it's not like I want to make a cam card from it. I'd just like to roughly compare profiles. It's just one of those things, "so simple why didn't I think of that?"
 
Just read the whole thread, such an awesome build all around.

Very jealous of your shop too!

Thanks!

Did you look at the JMR or ProTools benders? I'm looking at picking up one and would value your opinion. Also, is that all 1.75" OD tube?

I didn't look at those to be honest. A friend of ours has a JD2 model 3 that he uses daily. It has done thousands of bends in all kinds of heavy wall tubing without missing a beat. That's mainly what made the decision in my opinion. If you're choosing between JD2, Pro-Tools, or JMR I think you'll be happy with whatever you end up going with. They all work on the same principle of bending and all look like high quality machines.

Yep, it's all 1.75" x 0.095" DOM
 
Cool. I'm guessing they're all pretty solid and everyone seems to have a personal favorite.

Out of curiosity, what radius die was that and do you have a JD2 notcher?

We only got one die for it since they are kinda pricey. It is a 90 degree 5.5" CLR.

We got their notchmaster at the same time as the bender. For the money I would say it is very hard to beat it. It is extremely sturdy and easy to use. It doesn't do notches in bends like their beast model though. That is something Ive wanted to do a couple of times. Not a deal breaker, just a nice function to have when you need it.
 
My favorite details about this build so far are the deleted drip rails--really gives the car a completely different look. Of course, everything else is also superb.
 
My favorite details about this build so far are the deleted drip rails--really gives the car a completely different look. Of course, everything else is also superb.

Very few people notice that. It was a spur of the moment thing, we'll see if it pays off later when the car gets painted.

Before I went back to Sweden for school I tore the steering rack down and ordered a rebuild kit from Jorgen Automotive. It was only ~$60 shipped and Roger, the guy I spoke to, was extremely helpful and well informed. Definitely recommend them for steering rack rebuild kits. I took some of the rack parts with me for modification.

Turned new stainless gland nuts that hold the central steel tube onto the aluminum ends. I also cut the old rack mounts off and turned the aluminum parts down to a uniform diameter in order to accept a new, more stable mounting solution:

2013-01-22%252023.35.34.jpg


Whipped up a spanner wrench to aid in assembly:

2013-01-23%252023.38.44.jpg
 
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