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244, Holset, and 30psi.

Your '98 m90 has an updated design of the stop that keeps third gear in place and three-piece syncros.

The "synchro mod" has nothing with the syncros to do actually. And it doesn't really add any strength, it just makes it harder to break the part holding third gear in place on the input shaft :)

btw; I'm also running a holset @ 30 psi, it's quite fun!
 
I red on here that the stock pistons would hold the boost but the ring lands would not stay for long.
Since i hate de re do thing, i might as well go straight to forged pistons.

But for the love of me, i CANNOT FIND somebody who will sell me pistons it is driving me ****ing crazy. John doesn't answer anymore, ClassicSwede answer to my first email, than nothing. And ACM has nothing on the shelf for now.
The engine is stripped and ready for machining, the money is ready, but nobody wants to take it. Crazy.

Anyway, i made the transmition mount for the M90. Bit rough on the edges but i will correct that later.
Gotta make the 50mm spacer for te guibo, and open the tranny for the 3rd gear mod.



 
Re-gap the rings so that they don't expand and pinch, and the pistons will be fine if you have the combustion event under control (no detonation/pinging).

I've only got a small hy35w (single scroll 9cm2 housing) so it spools alright. Not mitsu fast, but I see positive pressure at around 2000rpm under normal use, and 30psi by around 4000-4200rpm. This is with a 7.5:1 compression b21, v-cam, stock head/valves, a 90+manifold and full 3" exhaust. Running 98ron gasoline. In the datalogs I've seen 4-5 psi @ 1800rpm and 30psi @ ~3700rpm with lots of resistance (going uphill and/or "brake boosting"). I may have gone a little too far when drilling out the internal wg hole, so don't know if the flapper is sealing as good as it should.

The engine feels just as strong as a 13c car at low rpms, minus the instant boost feature of the mitsu ofcourse. But from 4000-7200rpm it really goes :)
 
Thanks man.
What ring gap is considered safe for running 2 bar/ 400-500 hp ?

I am leaning towards an HX35 with twinscroll 12cm2 housing. I think that it's a great combination between fast spool and high hp when running E85 and twinscroll manifold, which i plan to.
 
kingkong said:
Thanks man.
What ring gap is considered safe for running 2 bar/ 400-500 hp ?

I am leaning towards an HX35 with twinscroll 12cm2 housing. I think that it's a great combination between fast spool and high hp when running E85 and twinscroll manifold, which i plan to.
Click to expand...

Sorry miss read the post :) saw ring and thought grearbox

Some guys say they are good all the way to 600hp behind a t6, I cant remember @ what boost
You should be good att 500hp if you dont miss and gear changes (keep clutch down ) and behave ..is the motto for m90?s :)

I?m running a m90h behind my t5...we will see how long that lasts ...I still have to start the engine so ...
 
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kingkong said:
Thanks man.
What ring gap is considered safe for running 2 bar/ 400-500 hp ?
Click to expand...

From memory, it's like .005-.007in of ring gap for each inch of bore for crazy turbo. Street would be .004-.005in per inch of bore. Wiseco, and CP list charts for ring end gap based on how the engine will be used. Definitely double check.
 
kingkong said:
Thanks for the tip about the prop shaft mate.
Good for me that 16v head isn't compatible with the b230, keeps me from spending unnecessary money lol.

I began to unplug the B200 last night. Even with -5?C outside, after a full day at work, it is so easy to work on the 240 it is still a pleasure. Lots of room in the engine bay.
Click to expand...

Who said that? Many of us are running 16V heads on B230 blocks + turbo. Not that hard to do actually with the right parts.
 
I will see when this 8v setup work properly.

So i made the big order at classicswede. H beam rods, gaskets, TTV 850R billet flywheel and a master cylinder for the M90. I will stick to oem pistons for now.

BUT the best part : i scored a HX35w for 250€ in Poland and that is great news. Can't wait to have it at home next week.

Now i need to figure out what camshaft and springs i need to make nice middle and top end power, and also rev to 7000+ rpm. Goal is 500hp on E85 with supporting mods.
(crazy for me to think that 7000rpm is "high rpm" as i am used to 10k with the rotaries lol)
 
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All right, i red a bit more.

As for the springs, i will shim them. No need to buy expensive fancy springs when using your brain is cheaper. I will shim them to the max my camshaft will allow me, and put the limiter between 7000 and 8000. I will see how it behaves. I am curious to know what valve float sounds like. If anyone wants to chime in.

As for the camshaft, i red more too and now i have a clear view of what LSA is, lift vs duration etc. Coming from the Wankel world, this stuff was non sense for me lol.

I emailed KG and they advised me to use the KG-0004.

Now that i think about it, i still have my B200E which might have a V cam in it. If it does, i will go that way for now.

Concerning the fuel setup, it seems the only aftermarket pump able to withstand my need in terms of power with E85 is the walbro 450lph. Either i'll go this way with 2000cc injectors, or dual in tank rx7 pumps which i know for a fact are very strong and reliable. and cheap as well.
 
I'm not sure, but believe 1,5 - 2mm about as much as you can shim the springs. At least nobody ever recomends thicker shims.

I've got KG's "gulm?rkta" valvesprings. Back in the day the stiffest springs volvo offered where marked with a dab of yellow paint, and kg sells these (or perhaps they just are springs similar to those old ones). If i remember correctly it's actually b20 springs. Works good with 30psi and up to 7200rpm.

The kg-004 is about the same as a stock K camshaft. If you can call a stock cam wild, this is the runner up in volvos lineup of performace cams for n/a motors.
 
Thanks poulrais.

eabras : ok good to know, great info thanks.

I just checked : i got an A cam in the b200E. Fuk. I gotta choose between an A and a T cam.
According to the lift and duration, i'll go with the A for now. Once it is running, i will see how much moneyz i have left for a cam. :-P
 
Very nice. Good choice on the pistons. Make sure the block is machined and matched with the head to have tight squish with the head gasket installed. Reducing the chance of detonation is worth it.
 
Thanks man. I will skim the head for flatness purpose really.
It seems everybody on here is concerned with detonation. I guess it has to do with the fact that most people put plug n play chips in their ECU, that will mostly not be on par with their setup.
I am going E85 and megasquirt so i am pretty confident detonation wont ever be a problem. But thanks for the warning.
 
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