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Saving A 245 Turbo, or How Not To Do This Sort of Thing

That's a rubber cover over the hard plastic fuel line. It's fine just the way it is.

Here's a repair kit.

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Good to know! :nod:
 
Well, I was able to get the main line off, but the return line is not looking so hot. Hose grip pliers look like they'll keep chewing the line and the line does not want to come off the fitting. Should I start thinking about sourcing a replacement?

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The plastic line is swedged onto the fitting on the sender. You're supposed to disconnect the fitting at the other end of the plastic hose and remove it with the sender.

Later cars just used rubber hose and clamps.
 
The plastic line is swedged onto the fitting on the sender. You're supposed to disconnect the fitting at the other end of the plastic hose and remove it with the sender.

Later cars just used rubber hose and clamps.

Ah, I see. That would explain a lot. I thought somebody did a bodge job years ago.

All the youtube videos I saw were of later cars and Bentley's wasn't the clearest about this. Will give it another go tomorrow afternoon. Thanks for the advice.
 
Well, got it onto a lift only for the hard line fuel hose to break while disconnecting since the fitting is seized solid. Fortunately some kind soul left a good foot long section of SAE 30JR7 hose behind so I should be able to fabricate up a replacement line to grip onto the remaining 1/4" on the fitting tube. I have a healthy supply of hose clamps and I'm not afraid to use them. Also, what is that clear hose for and should I be concerned that it's dry?

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Didn't graduate at the top of my class but I can tell you that's broken.


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I'm currently at a stand still. The supplied fuel hose doesn't want to travel all the way down the fitting on the replacement fuel pump. Do I really need to get it in there all the way or is just enough for a hose clamp enough?

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Update! I have the new in-tank pump in and I'd like to say the car runs better. I also fabricated a new section of fuel hose and it's as tight as a drum.

However, I noticed that the in-line pump's sprouted a bit of a leak, so I guess that's next on the agenda. Also, I noticed a pretty nasty amount of fuel spilling out of the right rear corner between the wheel and the bumper. My research led me to here. Could it really be a matter of me not clicking the fuel cap enough times? I noticed a little black hose running out of the opening in that area. Let me know if you guys want pics.

I wouldn't say it's a heavy leak, as it stopped after I shut off the engine and it was more of a pool that got sloshed out if anything. A good wipe down took care of the leak.
 
I noticed that the in-line pump's sprouted a bit of a leak, so I guess that's next on the agenda.

I had this leak issue as well (tightening the banjo bolt with a box wrench). I was irritated and impatient at the time, so I tossed a socket on the hammer drill and snugged it up with a relatively low clutch setting, and it seated the 2 copper o rings well enough to stop the leak.
 
I was going to work on it some more this weekend but the stupid Harbor Freight jack still needs a thorough bleed before I can use it to lift things. I'll probably tighten the stinking banjo nut as advised.

The weekend wasn't completely lost - I was able to salvage another section of the rear carpet. There was a nasty caked-on stain left behind when something melted years ago. I started with chipping off the harder bits using a flathead screwdriver. Warm water and laundry detergent & Borax applied with a stiff brush took care of the rest. It isn't perfect and the carpet is still bad in places, but it's a multi-fold improvement. It could use a final vacuum.

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One of the metal clips underneath is probably toast even after some aggressive wet sanding, but I think I can just put on a quick hit of flat black to keep things from getting worse. The structural integrity is there, it just looks awful.
 
Got sick & tired of trying to save the jack and decided to return it. As I was getting into the car, I spotted a deal for the low-profile version of the 3-ton jack for only a few bucks more. Let's hope my luck holds out.

Edit: If we're looking at the tray with the in-line pump & accumulator, from the back to the front, is the accumulator the little tube thing that sits on the right? Because it's the one on the "passenger" (right) side that's leaking.
 
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Edit: If we're looking at the tray with the in-line pump & accumulator, from the back to the front, is the accumulator the little tube thing that sits on the right? Because it's the one on the "passenger" (right) side that's leaking.

Yes, fuel pump on the outside, accumulator on the inside.
 
Does the accumulator play any role in how a B21FT idles? I know for a fact this is toast because it leaks when the car runs and it would certainly explain why the fuel splatters on the right rear corner. The filler neck gasket looks tight and I doubt it's a bad cap.
 
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All my volvo cars have been LH jetronic bosch ignitions, so I have no input there. I received the IPD upgraded in tank pump yesterday, I just need to install it to see if the hornets go away ;)
 
Does the accumulator play any role in how a B21FT idles? I know for a fact this is toast because it leaks when the car runs and it would certainly explain why the fuel splatters on the right rear corner. The filler neck gasket looks tight and I doubt it's a bad cap.

Yes, as they decay insdie the dampening action isn't as good and fuel pump pulses can actually affect the air flow sensor flap on really bad ones. They also leak inside untl it starts coming out of the screw on opposite end from the fuel fittings. Speaking of the B21FT version. A bad accumulator affects hot starting in the mid warm engine zone where the car has been sitting for say 20-30 minutes after being driven hot weather. The fuel pump check valve plays a part in that situation as well.
 
You don't seem to have a lot of experience with fixing cars, but you have a sane approach and I feel you're going to fix this thing just fine.

Just a side note: That arc welder you bought on the past page...If you plan on fixing that rust spot with it - it's not likely to work. Arc's are great for metal plates, but they're going to burn through sheetmetal and just leave your hole bigger and you frustrated. You need a MIG for that sort of thing.
 
Got sick & tired of trying to save the jack and decided to return it. As I was getting into the car, I spotted a deal for the low-profile version of the 3-ton jack for only a few bucks more. Let's hope my luck holds out.
I've had this low profile version for years. Works fine.
 
You don't seem to have a lot of experience with fixing cars, but you have a sane approach and I feel you're going to fix this thing just fine.

Just a side note: That arc welder you bought on the past page...If you plan on fixing that rust spot with it - it's not likely to work. Arc's are great for metal plates, but they're going to burn through sheetmetal and just leave your hole bigger and you frustrated. You need a MIG for that sort of thing.

The welder he purchased IS a wire feed welder, it literally shows the gun and spool of wire on the box. I'm sure it has the "MIG" option if it comes with a regulator and he were to purchase a CO2 tank. The CO2 as shielding gas and solid core wire will give you a much better weld than the flux core wire alone, but he can always grind it to look pretty. ;)
 
Ordered a few more parts over the weekend.

* Fuel Accumulator: This part mysteriously went up in price on Black Friday. Hmm... Still cheaper on FCP Euro than everywhere else though. I understand the p/n ending in 034 is the "correct" OEM part and I figured I'll go with it.

* Brake Pedal cover: Less of a need, more of a want as 266k thousand miles in LA has left it looking pretty disgusting and it was on clearance. I've spent 95 cents on worse things.

* Valve cover gasket & rear cam seal: Here's to hoping I can slow or eliminate the Volvo's commitment to return fossil fuels back into the ground.

I won't get too far on the interior until I can at least get the car past smog. Currently researching materials to redo the door cards and so far it looks like 3/16" thick fiberboard is the winner. I'll need to do the left door cards and the right rear cargo panel at the minimum.
 
The rear cam seal is pretty straightforward, just keep it flush with the back of the head and the #4 cam cap as you snug the bolts on the cam cap. Remember to put a dab of RTV on each side of the #1 and #4 cam cap to help seal the gasket where it bends sharply in those corners.

You might want to get the front cam seal too unless you are positive it isn't leaking. It's $4. However, pulling the front cam seal means pulling the timing gear. This can open another can of worms of you aren't really careful about not letting the auxiliary shaft or crankshaft move. If you are going that deep might as well do the timing belt too which means yanking the fan shroud, fan blade, and the auxiliary belts going to power steering and alternator. Weigh the options, the rear seal is just a valve cover gasket and popping cam cap 4. The front seal you may as well knock out all the wear parts while you're in there. Water pump too if you have any question about it. It's a lot more parts and labor, but will give you a solid foundation you can count on in the future.

I just did the cam seals on my brothers 244 this last weekend because the front cam seal was leaking. It turns out the front cam seal on his car wore a groove in the cam, so when I replaced it with a new one it still leaked because at the seal point the cam OD wasn't to spec with the ring seal ID. :( Fortunately, someone mentioned to me you don't have to seat the front cam seal all the way, and you can translate it a mm or 2 forward so it isn't riding in the groove, but honestly I'd just get a new cam at that point.

Just my $0.02
 
It turns out the front cam seal on his car wore a groove in the cam, so when I replaced it with a new one it still leaked because at the seal point the cam OD wasn't to spec with the ring seal ID. :( Fortunately, someone mentioned to me you don't have to seat the front cam seal all the way, and you can translate it a mm or 2 forward so it isn't riding in the groove, but honestly I'd just get a new cam at that point.

Just my $0.02

It's been a while since I've been in that area, but I'm fairly certain the Greenbook specifies the change in the groove location as common practice. Could be wrong.
 
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