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dirty, old and rusty: a tale of a $600 meatball

diff is leaking oil again. I cannot for the life of me get the cover to seal. I have tried like 5 times so far
 
diff is leaking oil again. I cannot for the life of me get the cover to seal. I have tried like 5 times so far

I had the same issue with my old 240. I tried just the cork. That didn't work well. I tried RTV. BIG no. I also tried a new cork with a thin layer of RTV, and that seemed to work best. I'm hoping somebody has tricks to share before I botch my girlfriends diff cover. lol
 
I had the same issue with my old 240. I tried just the cork. That didn't work well. I tried RTV. BIG no. I also tried a new cork with a thin layer of RTV, and that seemed to work best. I'm hoping somebody has tricks to share before I botch my girlfriends diff cover. lol

The RTV specifically made for differential covers has worked for me. The shop that rebuilt my axle and installed the truetrac recommended not using the paper gasket and using RTV instead

I cleaned thoroughly prior, followed instructions, and it's been sealed up now for about 5-8K miles, which means it'll probably stay sealed up
 
The RTV specifically made for differential covers has worked for me. The shop that rebuilt my axle and installed the truetrac recommended not using the paper gasket and using RTV instead

I cleaned thoroughly prior, followed instructions, and it's been sealed up now for about 5-8K miles, which means it'll probably stay sealed up

Steel diff covers use a gasket. It's recommend to use a Volvo gasket. Aluminum cover uses a sealant. I've personally used the green rtv and it works well. No leaks to report.
 
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Steel diff covers use a gasket. It's recommend to use a Volvo gasket. Aluminum cover uses a sealant. I've personally used the green rtv and it works well. No leaks to report.

Which years did the steel cover come on? I ordered a rubber looking diff gasket genuine Volvo.
 
I got a thing. i want to make the exhaust less obnoxious


the volvo assumed shadetree hackery position


so there is no way to just clamp on the muffler without it hitting something on my current exhaust. :-( I ended up just pulling the whole back side of the exhaust to get some better measurements. screw working on wet gravel.


I want to put it here, where the original resonator should have went. but it will definately needs to be welded and the hangers replaced. No way the clamps would seal on the bends.


I put it on the end just to see what it'd sound like. it is definately better but i bet it'll sound better/quieter in the res spot.

Sorry for no rev video. didn't want to piss off my neighbors!:lol:
<video width="560" height="315" src="https://esmth.com/f/200713/IMG_1512.mp4" controls></video>
 
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Sorry for no rev video. didn't want to piss off my neighbors!:lol:
<video width="560" height="315" src="http://esmth.com/f/200713/IMG_1512.mp4" controls></video>

:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Just drive it like that! :rofl:

But in all seriousness, that still sounds too loud even with the resonator. I'd be willing to bet your muffler is wasted. I didn't realize they could degrade internally until I took my old one off and looked inside. They have steel baffles inside that corrode away and eventually stop producing the acoustic effects that they were engineered to produce.

My car has no resonator and a new stock muffler. It is quieter than what I heard on your video... the only time I notice my car's exhaust it on the highway, when I hit the resonance around 2.5-2.7K RPM. Even then, it's not that loud, just could be quieter, ya know?
 
But in all seriousness, that still sounds too loud even with the resonator. I'd be willing to bet your muffler is wasted. I didn't realize they could degrade internally until I took my old one off and looked inside. They have steel baffles inside that corrode away and eventually stop producing the acoustic effects that they were engineered to produce.

My car has no resonator and a new stock muffler. It is quieter than what I heard on your video... the only time I notice my car's exhaust it on the highway, when I hit the resonance around 2.5-2.7K RPM. Even then, it's not that loud, just could be quieter, ya know?

It?s not the stock muffler, it?s a mangaflow 18x6x6 2.5? straight thru glass pack haha. nothing else in the exhaust. :oops: It doesn?t sound horrible but it hits maximum fart cannon like you mention from 2800-3100 rpm. Sounded nice when a turbo was muffling the tractor noise but now that it?s NA and the glass pack is getting worn out it?s pretty obnoxious!!
 
I got some new tires. Continental Extremecontact DWS06 high berformance all season. I'm going to try to break them in before going for some skids but braking feels 8.7 times better than the bald 14" winters I was using before. I did not realize how low I set the car as the old wheels were so much smaller. Before getting a real alignment I may bring it back up just a little.
 
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Sealed that rear differential yet?

If not:

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52416_100.htm

I used them on mostly 4wds... but it's for a Dana 30 and doesn't care what cover you have.

I have seen and thought about that gasket. What worries me is the difference in distance from the VR sensor in the diff to the internal tone ring with a thicker gasket like that installed. When I first pulled the cover to do the locker, it was a rtv chemical gasket only, no paper.

I ordered a paper gasket a couple weeks ago and am going to try that out first. I was also thinking about getting a large piece of sandpaper and a flat surface to re-finish the sealing surface of the cover.

I got a stock panhard par and put new poly bushings into it, so I will be pulling the cover again while the bar goes in in the coming weeks.
 
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How far does it go? Can we get the idle down to 0db?

**********-lawn-mower-with-huge-muffler-shows-how-ricers-fail-88589_1.jpg


edit, LOL ********** is censored hahahah

tractor.jpg
 
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Replacing the panhard bar to stock with poly and this aluminum bushing siezed to the mount. It was hell to get loose. Took a trusty hack saw. Stock panhard with poly is now installed, but got no pictures of that.



While I was in there, I wanted to attempt to re seal the diff again. The last time I went overboard with the green RTV and the sucker was GLUED to the housing. I bent it pretty bad trying to pry it off. Ended up using a vicegrips and sandpaper to get it flat again.


While fixing the cover I found out why it kept leaking... there are 3 tiny pinholes. I have no idea why I didn't notice them before. Cover was never even that rusty. :rofl:
 
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Two days after the diff re-seal (and rtv applied to the pinholes) without a new drip on my superfund site of a parking spot!

I didn't end up using the paper gasket I ordered, though I obtained an aluminum cover for when it inevitably starts leaking again
 
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