DET17's "Project cheap thrills" - '92 944T

I'm sorry to hear about your loss.

Today was the first time I've read through this thread and I love your attention to detail. It's nice to be at the stage where you can just enjoy your work and drive it.

Buchka-spark upgrade to Wasted Spark!

Well this is long overdue....I've not had any time to further enhance the DD, but rather I've just been driving the pee out of it. I would estimate since the redblock reconstruction was completed I've put around 20K miles on the 940. Runs fine, has surprised more than a few folks for a Grandpa vehicle....but of course everyone wants more.

I read up on the Buchka-spark modification a good year+ ago, bought the board from Karl, and began gathering the pieces to follow his suggestion to use the BOSCH Motorsports coil & BOSCH 203 power stage setup. After some searching, found this pair of coils from a Range Rover:



I've listed the exact vehicles which were in the US market over in Karl's thread on this subject so I won't do it here. After seeing that bracket, I decided it would be repurposed as a nice head top mount for my WS coil. Took the plate over to my machinist buddy, had him clean up the edges after I cut the original apart with my METABO (rough cuts). Next I used a bare 530 head I had laying around to make a mock up. But where to locate the coil? Based on my wire lengths, it had to be close to the original location. So did some fit checking and selected this:



The most space is available there...didn't want to run my control wiring near the turbo, and this spot provides an easy path back to the original power stage location (where I put the new 203 unit, connected to original heat sink with "special heat conductive paste"). With the location selected, let's see how the mount was fab'd.





I decided to use the B530 head valve cover studs with stand offs (M6x25mm each from MISUMI USA) to mount the coil where it just cleared the valve cover and as far aft as possible for clearance. MIG'd the mount together and sent it off to be powder coated with a big pile for my Chevelle EFI project.

Of course the EZK must be modified to adapt Karl's spark signal separation board. His thread explains all the details so I'll just show pics of the results. I used my original 92 EZK without daughterboard.....so no TLAO ignition chip in this one, just good old OEM EZK with wasted spark. Here is the modified EZK, complete with pass thru connector (Radio Shack) to get the pair of signal wires for the 203 Powerstage:





With the Wasted spark EZK ready, time to make the final install. Now, I did do a haywire quickie temporary install to make SURE this would work, before I made the permanent. Won't bother to show those pics, rats nest wires et al, but onward to the final. Many have warned to make sure to use the heat paste between the 203 power stage transistors and the heatsink....if you want it to live. As Karl suggested, I left the original 124 Powerstage connected to retain my tach function, tucked it aside as I figured the heatsink location was needed for the 203 which was doing all the heavy lifting.

Almost forgot, the coil mount standoffs and M6 studs:



Here are the MISUMI part#s if anyone cares to use them:



I stacked a pair of the 25mm hex nuts atop each other, blue loctited them together and then the BOSCH coil is sitting right above the valve cover, as such:



Finally, here are the pics of various wiring I installed under hood, with comments:





As a part of the WS conversion, when the old power stage is partially disconnected/replaced, you lose the tach. The easy way to recover it is to install your basic automotive relay, which you disable the output contact side (remove the hinge & spring & braided wire). Here are the detail pics:




If you note the last pic, I have the OEM wiring diagram for the 92 Turbo EZK under hood wiring. Anyone who tackles this should not be without this reference data, available online (don't remember where, just search. Volvo UK club maybe?).

The result - the Buchka-spark WS system is just fabulous. I ran TLAO chips in a Gold box EZK for the last couple years....and I think it put too much timing in under full boost, which is why folks have had to run the #18 ground pin trick to pull some timing back. All I know, is the butt dyne says that we have net improvement with the stock EZK and Karl's WS board, along with the BOSCH Motorsport coil. I like it.....it definitely pulls "harder" from 4-6K than my car did with TLAO chip setup.

Nice!

" Look Ma, no distributor! "

Well a quickie update for my DD 940. After the successful conversion to the wasted spark system, and fighting a persistent small leak from the head mounted distributor internal shaft, I decided it was time to remove it the distributor and improve my synthetic Mobil 1 0W40 retention....also improving the driveway stains!

The easy part.....15A sells these distributor cover plates, I'm sure he has plenty of stock. I searched for the OEM seal plug part #, and was pleased to find out that eEuroparts.com had these seal plugs for around $3 each. The required parts:

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Well here is the distributor looking from the drivers side. It is something of a bugger to get out due to the tight space available between the firewall and itself, as well as the REACH from each fender. First you must remove the distributor cap, which requires I think 3 total small hex screws to be loosened. I used a combo of my mini ratchet kit with - driver installed, and possibly an 8mm socket on one of them that had enough room. Let's just say it's tight to get out

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Once the cap is off, you can access the pair of distributor hold down fasteners....easier with the cap out as you have some breathing room. Pull it straight back and it also barely clears but will remove between the head and firewall. We have daylight:

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I cleaned up the back of the head from the oil dripping and fit checked the seal. Once you see the cavity vacated, it should be obvious which WAY the seal installs. There is a larger lip on one side of the OD. It also helps if you have a spare head you can inspect out of the vehicle I coated the full OD of the new seal with a light coating of anaerobic sealant (red) and pressed into position, leaving maybe 1mm outside flush. Then I installed the 15A sexy looking cover plate, and eased the screws down until it pulled the seals flush (i.e. DON'T drive the seal in, let the plate PULL it into position). Since the head is aluminum, I used the green Loctite "bearing locker" on the screw threads. Blue Loctite really isn't effective in aluminum, where the bearing locker will harden in any material. The screws are small, and IIRC they were 10mm hex caps. The cover plate ALSO only installs one way.....look at your old distributor and it is likewise obvious.

So, dead weight of the now useless distributor removed, and PITA continual oil leak remedied, we have goodness!

Since I was in there, and had recently scored some 7/9 8mm IPD wires from another TB member, I decided to go ahead and install them for a bit a dress up and hopefully improved function over the original Aurora set which I've run since 2012. Here are a group of shots of the IPD wires with their nice heat shields down in side the spark plug cavities:

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Functional and pretty good looking as well! Now with the persistent leak resolved, I proceeded with my Mobil 1 oil change......the oil itself I took to around 8K miles, while changing the MANN W917 filter each 4K miles. Gotta take care of the DD!

Time to put an update on the Project file.....the DD has continued to serve me well. One persistent problem since the original suspension was completed was the underdamped rear end of the beast. EDIT - I thought a little more backstory might help those who follow. With 3.5 years on the car since the restification, I noted whenever I crossed large bumps (RR tracks for example) that the rear end had excessive travel, to the point of rubbing my back tires on the fender lips. I also noted when driving thru a local parking lot with a nice washboard paving job that the rear axle would feel as if it hit the 1st harmonic.....giving a pogo stick feeling to the driver. Adding this up in my brain with the dozens of TB threads complaining about the underdamped Bils HD (factory specs), I decided a remedy was needed. The rear axle feels underdamped, while the fronts, not so much. No accelerometer data, this is strictly butt accelerometer data.....

Back in 2012 when this car went "live", I installed new Bils HD all around. Unfortunately I didn't do adequate research or I would have found out that these Bils HD are really underdamped with STIFFER than stock springs, especially the rears. EDIT - We confirmed with my oldest son's 745T that the Bils HD are well matched with the OEM wagon springs, but in my experience they are sorely underdamped for stiffer springs.....makes sense, Bils valved them for the stockers.

Given that the re-valving of the Bils HD costs $100 per piece plus shipping both ways to CA (and taking up to a month to complete), I decided to just buy the KONI Sport rear dampers ($130 shipped to my door) which have good reviews with 7/9 owners.

Here is the rear part # for the KONI sports:

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Out of the boxes, they are some nice looking pieces:

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Having installed these Bils HD more than 3 years ago, I had forgotten the trick to getting them out. I disconnected both sides from the rear 19mm sway bar, and let the suspension droop on a pair of OEM scissor jacks to help extend the suspension. The Bils HD use rubber bushing doughnuts at top and bottom mounting points, where the M12 bolts go thru from the body/suspension, so they are tight to remove. I finally remembered to rotate the bottom pin 90*s so it could extend right thru the lower control arms..... this gave me enough room to pull the top pin down out of the cavity..... it was pretty damn tight.

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SO, after setting the rebound damping to the lowest setting (seems like plenty based on the test drive) it reassemble with ease. The KONI sports are really nice, much better control of that rear axle. I used Loctite 242 BLUE on the threads of the mounting bolts.....no worries about torque as the damper must rotate slightly during suspension travel. After the test drive last night, I just might have to put a set up front well! As my Japanese Engineer friends say, "Good Condition!"

Coming next - how I fixed the horrible front roll center (which I ruined by lowering the car), and the results on handling. EDIT - and installation of new KONI sports in the front to match the rears.....

KONI Sport fronts and Kaplhenke "roll center correctors"

Well as promised, time for an update to the DD.

Over the last 4 years of DD service from my trusty 940, I slowly realized that my dampers were badly UNDER-damped for my modified 940. For some reason I ignored/denied this for most of that period.... hell, brand new BILS HD, how could it be? . Sadly, it is true.... the Bils HD are valved for the OE stock springs, and as soon as you add more spring rate, they don't cut the mustard. TB legend has it that the IPD Blue sport springs are in the neighborhood of 175 lb/in rate..... around a 30% increase over stock. Once I had the KONIs in the rear, you could feel the change in the car, and if magnified that the front suspension was now behaving like a pogo stick... oscillating rather than quickly damping the motion. Time has come (today) to fix this, and send the Bils HD onto someone with stock springs (for which they work quite well).

FIRST, here is the P/N info. for the 7/9 series front KONI sports:

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Misplaced my BILS HD nut tool, but those custom nuts were no match for my 24" pipe wrench! I put 6 wraps of masking tape on the nuts, so the marring was minimal. Out with the BILS HD, and in with the KONIs:

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These KONIs are rate adjustable "in situ" so no worries now about settings....I'll start with the base position for rebound and see how they feel. Per Michael Yount (and the Tech Reps at KONI USA) the KONI sports have plenty of damping for the IPD springs, and more. I know several TB folks running 275~325 #/in. springs up front, and use these dampers without issue. With my 18" pipe wrench and Blue Loctite 242 new KONI supplied nuts..... they specify 89 lb-ft, and I snugged them up well. Here is the nut, torqued in place:

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More ride quality feedback later......on to the next task at hand. I'd been considering that my front roll center had been degraded (elevated, actually) by lowering the car with the IPD sport springs (I think they claim a 40mm lowering). My old engineer brain had never fully processed the roll center location and effect of changes made to vehicle height. Last winter I was determined to figure it out...... reading my Herb Adams Suspension book, and the synapses finally fired.... I got it! The solution.....the Kaplhenke "quick steer" roll center correctors. At times my front end felt a bit twitchy when pushing the car hard, in spite of having lowered it, stiffened it (springs and IPD 25mm front bar), even the lower Cherry braced, but I knew something was still wrong. After a lot of research, I'm convinced this is the missing piece to restore a proper front roll center. SO, here we go, with parts inhand we begin:

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Very nice, quality parts! Ben's work is masterful, and I start with a fit check. First finding, it seems they don't play nicely with the rotor dust shield! See the outline of the area I decided that had to be clearanced (I tried to assemble all items, and the rotor drags badly on the dust shield..... so I chose to section some of it out).

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First one was modified with tin snips and Metabo.... then cleaned up with a Dremel. Wasn't crazy about the cut edge I got, but it certainly clearanced things! Next one will look better.... but now mocked up again, we have the needed clearance:

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With one under my belt, the next one much cleaner; layout with grease pencil, then most of the cuts cleanly made with the Metabo:

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These next pics illustrate WHY I found it necessary to trim the rotor dust shield.... look closely and you see where the roll center corrector won't flush up with the bottom of the strut register surface. Sure, those big attachment fasteners will pull it flush, but when you do that the dust shield has penetrated those rotors.... no good condition. This should give you the idea:

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So, now we've got adequate clearance for these RCC's..... the next installment will show them in the vehicle and torqued up per the OEM specs. Stay tuned for more Grandpa suspension improvement

I suggest you try camber plates as well, mainly for a healthy increase in caster angle.

I recently changed around struts in my car with stiffer springs. Lo and behold; vastly improved handling, with an additional improvement in ride quality and comfort, despite the heavier duty hardware.

I'm getting rid of the HDs in the back of mine ASAP...

Harlard said:

I suggest you try camber plates as well, mainly for a healthy increase in caster angle.

Click to expand...

Yes, possibly. I've done the "camber mod" to this car and it had a healthy effect on front grip. There is a 7/9 "poor mans caster mod" that some of the Euro TBers have done...involves some spacers near the cone bushings, and possibly another radius rod with a longer length. I know what big caster can do.... my 70 Chevelle Malibu runs it, I think around 4.5*

and the work continues.... when you get to be my age, these things take time!

OK, before I list more details on the struts, some words about spring/strut installations on the 7/9 series. As I've now been "in and out" about a half doz. times, I found the sequence that works best for me. This is what I recommend to reinstall your front struts with IPD Blue Sport springs (or any other lowering springs using STOCK diameter, top hats & bearings etc). This does NOT include custom coilovers. I recommend the following sequence:

1. Remove your rotors (and in my case, hub centric adapters), for weight reduction reasons
2. Lower BJ is disconnected from the lower strut ( or roll center corrector in this case)
3. Install your spring onto the strut, then top hat with rubber upper spring seat, top bearing
4. Vehicle is safely support (I used a pair of Volvo scissor jacks at each front side, PLUS a floor jack under the cross member). I also throw the removed tires under the floor boards just for added safety....saw a car fall off jackstands once, and that was enough
5. Place the top nut (M16 in this case) near the upper strut mount, top side. Don't need that fancy rubber/steel concave washer gizmo for now, but put it nearby
6. With your spring properly positioned relative to the upper rubber seat and lower steel strut spring seat, carefully lift the assembly up into position and "start" the threaded section of your KONIs / whatever brand, up thru the top hat (which I never removed... left in situ)
7. NOTE - no spring compressors required!
8. The top stud of the strut will be in the top hat, but not visible from the engine bay
9. Move the lower control arm, with ball joint, up under your strut (or roll center corrector in this case). Start the bolts up into the strut (yes, Virginia, everything will reach). Snug those bottom bolts which in my case required a M16 socket
10. Move a floor jack (not a scissor, bottle jack) under the strut bottom, beneath the ball joint, and raise the jack to contact
11. Slowly apply jack lift beneath the strut, whilst keeping an eye up top
12. Continue raising the jack (and slightly compressing your lowering spring) until enough of the M16 stud is topside and you can put the upper piece of the hat, lock nut and nut into position
13. In my case, begin twirling a M24 box wrench to tighten that top nut. You will begin pulling her snug up into position, and your spring is still perfectly positioned between spring seat and top rubber spring seat
14. Stop when the M24 nut goes solid....it's home! Later in the job, torque that top nut when you have the vehicle on her feet, suspension loaded

That's it! The easiest way yet that I've found to install the front struts, but this will NOT work with factory springs..... you must use spring compressors with those (free length of spring is far too long). OK, hope that helps those who follow....works great for those lowering springs. IPD says mine lower the front 1.75 inch net.

ALLRIGHT, now back to the task. Since this is my DD, and I drive in all weather, dust, sometimes gravel roads in N. Georgia and NC, I opted to use strut boots to protect the new KONIs. Given the fact that Ben Kaplan recommends to use a "bump stop" with them, I bought these from Amazon, only $16 each set plus shipping:

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NOTE that due to the lowering springs, I trimmed approx. 1.5 inches off the bottom of the new rubber/plastic dust boots. I actually was very pleased with these parts....nice quality bump stops and supple boots, all of it made in Germany. The bump stop fit perfectly up inside the stock top spring seat. These weigh nothing, and can only help, not hurt in any way I can imagine.

With those together, and struts installed, I finished the final install of the RCCs. The Brickboard 700/900 Maint. page specs recommend these fasteners be installed first with a 22 lb-ft torque, then an angle rotate of 90*. For an old guy like me, it takes a good grunt with a breaker bar to get the full 90*..... and I did not use Loctite in this instance (a lubricant at the point of torquing). I was concerned that the BNE supplied NORD LOCK washers might crack, but they survived just fine.

ONE MORE THANG...... in order to use my listed method above for strut installation, the lower control arm inboard rubber bushing mount must be released! Without doing this, you can't get enough travel from the lower control arm to get the strut past the wheel well inside and fender lip! These OEM rubber bushings are in shear as the suspension articulates... you must always leave them loose until the vehicle is sitting on the suspension at ride height, and then torque them.

Here is a nice shot of the Kaplhenke Racing roll center correctors, installed:

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Really looking forward to the test drive, to see how she handles with a properly restored front roll center I'm expecting a nice improvement.

Also, while they are fresh in my mind, some torque #s for this work:

Brake caliper attachment (socket head caps, large) - 74 lb-ft
Lower control arm inboard rubber bushing (set with vehicle at ride height, loaded) - 64 lb-ft
Bottom ball joint fasteners, into bottom of strut - 22 lb-ft, then angle rotate 90*
Metric lug nuts (M12 ?) - attaching my Gil Racing spacers to the front spindles - 65 lb-ft
Sway bar attachment bolt - threads into LCA on my year 940 - 64 lb-ft

Got about another hour tonight, and then that first drive to test out the KONIs and the roll correctors.......

Since it's been 6 months since the last update, find here the current status of the DD and planned upgrades this winter.

Current status: the BNE roll correction devices are fabulous. Every lowered 7/9 series should consider this a must have, unless you crawl around corners. Calling that work a screamin' success, and now moving onward to a plethora of upgrades that have waited a long time for their chance(s) to shine.

If you read the beginnings of this thread, the "cheap thrills" 940 has been in service 4+ years. She's been pretty much sledgehammer reliable thru that period.... with a lot of planned upgrades piling up in the queue, due to home improvement projects, honey-do projects, and other various and sundry activities intended to satisfy the better half (and stay married )

So in no particular order, the KAIZEN to be executed this winter season on my 940:

1. A new turbo, type TBD.... I have a T3/T04 hydrid at a rebuilder, and also am considering a TD04HL with 19t upgrade. Jury is out on which will be chosen, but the old Garrett T3 is tired and I likely screwed it's eyes out in the beginning when I had no CBV whilst running 16 psi

2. Install the 3 inch DP which I've had, like, 4 years. Remove the restrictive OEM CAT and install the "high flow" 3" size unit I bought from Summit. No full 3" exhaust system, keeping my TME stainless cat back, but replacing the OEM DP and CAT to address the perceived largest restriction.

3. Genuine "Cherry Turbo" upper strut brace, finally installing, but not until item 4. is completed first!

4. Upgrade to "old school" 7 series engine mounts/castings (the 84-85 type, I think). I'm still running the later OE hydro mounts, and I'm sure the driver side is dead. I know that the upper strut brace will be the 3rd engine mount, and break multiple throttle spools, if I don't change the mounts. When I received the Cherry brace, the seller told me he'd discovered the same after he broke the 2nd throttle spool assembly Yes, the brace has "a slight bend to it" where it was acting as a torque restraint.

5. Stage 0 my complete AC system. Around last July, all the R134a escaped, and testing confirms I've got a good leak. Considering the 24 years of active duty, it is time to refresh everything underhood including a rebuilt/new AC compressor.

6. Compressor intake airbox, with 3" AMM and RIGID non-collapsible suction side hose feeding the turbo. Can't/haven't proven it, but suspect my OEM replacement intake hose is being sucked shut on occasion. We'll take care of that with some super duty stiff inlet hose (do88 or similar).

7. Remove my IPD blue sport springs, and replace with B&G progressive springs. Just my old age showing.... but those blues feel just a bit too sharp for my old arse. Hoping the progressives will be a little kinder......

8. Front brake upgrade using the 850 conversion parts and bigger rotors. Not a full on performance brake upgrade, but improvement nonetheless over the stocker 9 series brakes. As was suggested by the Brit who wrote the original thread in Performance, I pulled a complete '95 model servo (booster) as well as the brake pedal assembly, which is reported to provide better mechanical advantage. Details of said upgrade found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=261539&highlight=940+brake+upgrades

Got to finish my 70 Chevelle rear disk brake conversion & Eaton LSD overhaul project.... just as soon as that is up and running I'll move the 940 into the Underground Swedish Garage and have at it

What struts and shocks do you have?

doucheNozzle said:

What struts and shocks do you have?

Click to expand...

KONI sports all around.

DET17 said:

So in no particular order, the KAIZEN to be executed this winter season on my 940:

Click to expand...

I don't see the M90 on this list

DET17 said:

Since it's been 6 months since the last update, find here the current status of the DD and planned upgrades this winter.

Current status: the BNE roll correction devices are fabulous. Every lowered 7/9 series should consider this a must have, unless you crawl around corners. Calling that work a screamin' success, and now moving onward to a plethora of upgrades that have waited a long time for their chance(s) to shine.

If you read the beginnings of this thread, the "cheap thrills" 940 has been in service 4+ years. She's been pretty much sledgehammer reliable thru that period.... with a lot of planned upgrades piling up in the queue, due to home improvement projects, honey-do projects, and other various and sundry activities intended to satisfy the better half (and stay married )

So in no particular order, the KAIZEN to be executed this winter season on my 940:

1. A new turbo, type TBD.... I have a T3/T04 hydrid at a rebuilder, and also am considering a TD04HL with 19t upgrade. Jury is out on which will be chosen, but the old Garrett T3 is tired and I likely screwed it's eyes out in the beginning when I had no CBV whilst running 16 psi

2. Install the 3 inch DP which I've had, like, 4 years. Remove the restrictive OEM CAT and install the "high flow" 3" size unit I bought from Summit. No full 3" exhaust system, keeping my TME stainless cat back, but replacing the OEM DP and CAT to address the perceived largest restriction.

3. Genuine "Cherry Turbo" upper strut brace, finally installing, but not until item 4. is completed first!

4. Upgrade to "old school" 7 series engine mounts/castings (the 84-85 type, I think). I'm still running the later OE hydro mounts, and I'm sure the driver side is dead. I know that the upper strut brace will be the 3rd engine mount, and break multiple throttle spools, if I don't change the mounts. When I received the Cherry brace, the seller told me he'd discovered the same after he broke the 2nd throttle spool assembly Yes, the brace has "a slight bend to it" where it was acting as a torque restraint.

5. Stage 0 my complete AC system. Around last July, all the R134a escaped, and testing confirms I've got a good leak. Considering the 24 years of active duty, it is time to refresh everything underhood including a rebuilt/new AC compressor.

6. Compressor intake airbox, with 3" AMM and RIGID non-collapsible suction side hose feeding the turbo. Can't/haven't proven it, but suspect my OEM replacement intake hose is being sucked shut on occasion. We'll take care of that with some super duty stiff inlet hose (do88 or similar).

7. Remove my IPD blue sport springs, and replace with B&G progressive springs. Just my old age showing.... but those blues feel just a bit too sharp for my old arse. Hoping the progressives will be a little kinder......

8. Front brake upgrade using the 850 conversion parts and bigger rotors. Not a full on performance brake upgrade, but improvement nonetheless over the stocker 9 series brakes. As was suggested by the Brit who wrote the original thread in Performance, I pulled a complete '95 model servo (booster) as well as the brake pedal assembly, which is reported to provide better mechanical advantage. Details of said upgrade found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=261539&highlight=940+brake+upgrades

Got to finish my 70 Chevelle rear disk brake conversion & Eaton LSD overhaul project.... just as soon as that is up and running I'll move the 940 into the Underground Swedish Garage and have at it

Click to expand...

I spot supply chain management terminology here.

As for turbo upgrades, get a GTX or an EFR if you have the budget.

Harlard said:

As for turbo upgrades, get a GTX or an EFR if you have the budget.

Click to expand...

lol

doucheNozzle said:

lol

Click to expand...

connorb850 said:

I don't see the M90 on this list

Click to expand...

You are correct. I've got the conversion kit, complete with TDI clutch system, and a disc to disc LSD Dana 40 rear axle. I'm going to resist that urge right now, as the modified AW71 is just shifting like a dream.... and convenient as hell to just leave the bugger where it is.

What is sitting in my USG, off to the right of where this 940 work will be performed, is my 84 242.... which has begun calling to me. That car will be B5244T5 powered, with, an M90 There has to be practical ending point for my DD when I declare "no mas" and move to the 2 door.

T minus 1 week..... to finishing the workshop 5S activity, and opening up a space for the 940 reconstruction project to commence.

Piles of parts are staged, just-a-waiting to join with it. We will rebuild him..... make him stronger, faster........

Well with all the preparations made, the car cleaned and the shop organized to get the 940 into the back location, and most importantly the wife gone to VEGAS for the week, it's time to start the reconstruction work.

Last Friday we had a decent day here in GA, and I washed & dried the 25 year old 940. Here is how it looks currently, prepared to go into a months long slumber in the workshop:

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I've been running these 16 x 6.5 MSW wheels I bought off fleaBay. I do like the 6 spoke look, and it's now shod with plenty 'nuff rubber for my needs. Less inertia to overcome when you drop the hammer, and hopefully enough grip:

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A couple of angle shots, attempting to mask those brick-like proportions:

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When the car shuffling was done, the 9 was in the back slot in my workshop (alongside my 242). I elevated the beast, as my intent is to begin in the rear axle area. So what is the first objective? Remove the G80 and install this:

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That's right, the hen's teeth / unicorn feather OEM LSD complete with ABS tone ring! Bought this complete rear end assy. from Billy 780 some years back, when my inlaws were conveniently relocating for New Jersey to ATL. He was only about 30 miles away, and delivered it right into their moving van....... timing IS everything. I've always wanted a true LSD in this car, so this swap is the first order of business. I'll retain the 3.73 that's already in my 94 940 rear end, and transplant this carrier with the current ring gear. Some disassembly pics tomorrow......

OK, here we go. First things first, get the car squared up in the bay where it will reside for the next several months. I use the HD 6 ton jackstands to help create room to work, especially since I will be upgrading the 1041 assembly in situ. TAKE NO SHORTCUTS with safety, the weight of this car falling will kill you! Here it sits:

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If you are going to remove/replace the differential (in my case going from G80 to Eaton LSD) you must remove the axles. Remove your brake rotors, suspend the brake calipers from wire (don't hang them from the hoses, DUH), disassemble and aside the E-brake system, then remove the 4 bolts which attach all this hardware to the ends of the rear end housing end tubes. Here are the shots with all the parts removed:

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A couple tricks I learned from the BB. Once you pull the 4 screws which attach the stack of parts to the axle housing flanges (M14 impact socket just fits thru the hole in the axle flange), you temporarily reinstall the rear rotor, flipped 180* so it faces you. Install said rotor over your axle studs, hand install 3 lugs evenly, and then using the rotor like a slide hammer, you pull the axle bearings and seals out of the flange. Don't overdo it, you don't need a HUGE force to free them up. Looking at your axles you will notice there is an inboard and outboard seal system. VOLVO/DANA decided to keep the diff. fluid from co-mingling with wheel bearing grease.... so they have a seal on both sides of the TIMKEN axle bearings. I have not decided yet if the bearings will be replaced, but I certainly intend to install new seals, unless I find my low mileage 91 1041 axles/seals are pristine. No decision until all parts are inspected. There is a good bit of work required to remove these wheel bearings, just to get to the seals for replacement. These axle bearings can certainly be destroyed with a cutoff wheel and split, and then HOTPLATE a new bearing and drop it on. There just isn't much room to hand pack grease into these bearings once they are on the axle. The Greenbook shows them pulled whilst at room temperature. More on this later. Who knows, there might be some JEEP guys with nice YouTube videos on this very procedure (note to self).

Here you can see the inboard seal, which of course will take a specific OD size tool to install, like all things VOLVO. I like the fact that they went to the trouble to keep the lubricants separate...... my old school 70 Chevelle has no such separation, and the outboard axle bearing is lubed by gear oil.

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Making note of locations of the rear diff. ABS sensor wiring and routing, as well as E-brake cable routing:

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The trusty 3.73 R&P will be maintained, just transferring the RING to the new LSD:

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This 1041 rearend assembly in my 92 came from a 94 Wagon donor (128K miles). I clearly see the fill plug point (no particle magnet used like a typical bottom drain plug - the 91 740 donor LSD rear has the bottom plug). I started loosening the cover attachment bolts, and was surprised to see the bottom center bolt is the drain!

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The last activity of the evening is to pull that cover and observe the G80. I was surprised to learn the 94 assembly did not use a paper gasket! Diff. cover to housing flange was sealed with anaerobic sealant. Sadly, DANA chose to put a seal plate over the screw heads on which attach the ring gear to the G80.... which means I must pull that driver side carrier bearing to get at the damn screws! Oh well, just another day in the life of the hotrodder......

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Next - removing the G80 as well as the Dana PowerLok LSD, and preparing to join them.