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1995 940 turbo *longterm* daily driver

I did my first 15 or so solders in my life to get the wasted spark board wired up. They did not come out pretty but I *believe* it will be good to go. Soldering isn't the easiest when dealing with such small spaces. Hopefully the hot glue will help also.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/lthINoT' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/lthINoTl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/q3IJEDT' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/q3IJEDTl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>


<a href='http://i.imgur.com/cmoYrDr' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/cmoYrDrl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

I used an aviation wire connector to leave the ezk box. I think I'm gonna run some wire to where the seat heater switches would have been for launch control, although I'm not going to bother figuring that out just yet. I've got the rest of the wasted spark components to get everything installed so I hope to put it together this weekend.

I've been lead to believe I need or will need a 3" -012 amm when I get larger injectors. So this prompted an order from do88 since I didn't want to cobble together my intake hose. I grabbed a 3" intake hose and their new pcv hose while I was at it. I think I've got their entire catalog at this point :omg:. My pcv hose was cracked in pieces inside of the foam cover thing so a new one was in order anyways.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/FcZHikN' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/FcZHikNl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

I thought I might have had an 012 amm laying around but I can't seem to find it right now. Has anyone rigged up a 3" amm to the factory air box?
 
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What size wire did you use to solder up the WS board? It only needs to be 18 to 22 gauge.... this is TTL (logic) circuitry, there is NO current to speak of in these wires. They strictly provide the control signals out to your "Power Stage" where the transistors do the REAL work in your ignition system. Are you going to use the 203 BOSCH power stage, or go with another setup for your WS? Regardless, if you use a BOSCH, make sure that you install it in the original heat sink. These things get crazy HOT in operation, and you need the cooling to the heat sink so your power stage will survive long term. There is a specific heat transfer paste that needs applied to the back of your Power Stage, in order for the heat to be transferred to the sink.... look it up, I think NAPA can order it.
 
I used 16 gauge wire for the board as that is what (i thought) I saw recommended in the giant wasted spark thread.

I am using the Mitsubishi j702t power stage from a Miata. I hadn't read any mention of heat sinks or paste in that thread, but I could just be forgetting. I'll look into it a little more.

I reread through that thread and see no mention of it, other than what you've posted in it in the past. I searched for images of how mine was originally mounted in Miatas, and it seems to just bolt to a bracket?
 
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Spent a half hour or so tinkering today. I got the other side of the connector soldered up and mounted the ezk. That third screw is awful. I ran my two wires through the driver's side firewall.

My goal is to mount this j702t ignitor where the factory one sits with some sort of heat sink. I'd like to rig up a bracket for the Bosch 2x2 coil in the factory 240 distributor position. That way I can use 240 plug wires. This idea is courtesy of Duder, but his bracket won't work in a 7/9.


What gauge wiring where for everything else?
 
My goal is to mount this j702t ignitor where the factory one sits with some sort of heat sink. I'd like to rig up a bracket for the Bosch 2x2 coil in the factory 240 distributor position. That way I can use 240 plug wires. This idea is courtesy of Duder, but his bracket won't work in a 7/9.


What gauge wiring where for everything else?

You can see in my build thread, the method I used to mount the Bosch 2x2 coil near the firewall, atop the valve cover. Range Rover "twin coil" mounting bracket, cut down and then using MISUMI standoffs that are the matching thread size to the valve cover studs. You don't have to use those standoffs, but the coil is fairly deep and will not flat mount to the valve cover. I chose not to hang the coil off the strut tower as some did in the WS thread (pics likely all gone now, Photobuggered), as I didn't want the turbo heat soaking it. Check with Range Rover folks, the guy I bought from was near Columbia SC and sells on eBay. You can of course mount in the original coil location (heat soak protected, bless their hearts) but will need to buy some LONG plug wires.

Do you have the proper coil connector to land your wires to it? Just match that gauge if you got a factory connector. Worst case, NO larger than the blue/red wire on the stock coil.
 
Do you have the proper coil connector to land your wires to it? Just match that gauge if you got a factory connector. Worst case, NO larger than the blue/red wire on the stock coil.

Yup, I bought all the proper connectors to give my self the best chance at successfully making this work, ha. That makes sense about simply matching the wire size that I've already got. And I'll dig through your build thread and take a look at your install. I'm sure it's as well documented as everything else, so thanks again.
 
You can use the stock heatsink for the j702t. I just drilled another hole and used a self tapping machine screw to mount it and one of the original module screws. I can get a pic when I?m home
 
You can use the stock heatsink for the j702t. I just drilled another hole and used a self tapping machine screw to mount it and one of the original module screws. I can get a pic when I?m home

Thanks for the response. For some reason, I was thinking the factory igniter thing was fixed to the heat sink, but that's good news. A picture would be great, but that makes sense and sounds like an easy solution.
 
I replied to a local Craigslist ad a while back selling an s60r that was missing various parts. The group buy for 7/9 s60r caliper adapters was gaining traction so I inquired about the calipers on the car. He didn't want to part the car at the time. But today, out of the blue, he texted me and the part out is on. He wants $300 for the four calipers which I know is a good deal, but now the group buy seems to have lost said traction.

The best news of all of this is he has the green giant injectors that are more of a priority to me right now. $40 seems like a no brainier. I'm gonna pick them up tomorrow. They have 93k miles on them. What do you all suggest, if anything, for refreshing these injectors. New o rings I assume. I own an ultrasonic machine..

Also, is there anything else useful I should ask about in the part out?
 
Tonight, I pulled apart the stock igniter and stole the heatsink. I used my tap and die set to tap the first hole in my life. It worked surprisingly well and my j702t igniter now bolts down perfectly and will look factory. Thanks supreme940 for the info.

I got my wires loosely laid out and twisted all my connections together. I checked everything twice. Turned the key and I could tell it wanted to fire up but didn't. I've read several times during my research that 1-4 and 2-3 may need switched. I pulled apart my temporary connections and made the swap. It fired up immediately and nice and smoothly. Another local friend also had to swap those two connections, in case anyone else has that issue.

This was all quite exciting. It was really my first dive into wiring anything. Tomorrow, I'm going to hopefully hard mount everything. I've got to pick up some heat shrink and heatsink paste still. But then I'm going to get some more soldering experience and finalize all the connections. I'm excited to finish this small project.
 
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Nice work! Both of the Buchaspark boards I've wired had the outputs swapped, despite their claims that problem doesn't exist! I wire nutted mine together for a neighborhood test drive..... just don't leave it that way, or the first time it rains you will be walking. If you can make it look "factory" and not "TB style", you will have outperformed the average!
 
Nice work! Both of the Buchaspark boards I've wired had the outputs swapped, despite their claims that problem doesn't exist! I wire nutted mine together for a neighborhood test drive..... just don't leave it that way, or the first time it rains you will be walking. If you can make it look "factory" and not "TB style", you will have outperformed the average!

The swapped output thing has been acknowledged. I believe it was a firmware issue. I added a note to my product page for the board, and as far as I know, it affects the entire batch.
 
<a href='http://i.imgur.com/zLg0RYI' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/zLg0RYIl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

This is what $40 gets me. Seem legit with the right part number off an '05 s60r. O rings seem fine to me so I guess just run them? I still have to find/buy an 012 amm to go with them.

I got my solders done and heat shrinked for the wasted spark setup. I could not find heatsink paste of any kind at any of the auto parts near me. Google says Walmart and best buy, so should be fine tomorrow. Really the main thing left is making a bracket to hold the coil. Oh! Another question, I got the 702 igniter for the tach driver. Do I connect that to... Which wire to regain my tach? Will read on it.

I'm looking forward to taking my distributor off. To plug the hole, is it really just that cap thing? I have one of those plates to hold the cap in place also.
 
So, I will not complete my project on this vacation (5 days in a row off). What can I say, I work slow. I got some quality time in with the fam and helped my brother a bit with his car. So, that took priority.

I searched all through town for some sort of heatsink paste. AutoZone, advance Auto, O'Reilly's and Walmart turned up nothing in stock. Best buy had this. It ought to do the trick.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/S3YbCVw' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/S3YbCVwl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

It said apply directly on to the surface so this is what I came up with.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/qLJSuMY' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/qLJSuMYl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

Put it all together and it bolts to the inner fender like the factory unit. How far do people go as far as removing the stock igniter wiring and connector? I can't imagine ever reverting.

<a href='http://i.imgur.com/AylteSS' title=''><img src='http://i.imgur.com/AylteSSl.jpg' alt='' title='Hosted by imgur.com' /></a>

I haven't tested yet, but to answer my own question, it seems connecting the red/white wire from the stock igniter harness to the tach out on this j702t igniter *should* give me a working tach. We'll see soon enough.

I will say i am not so sure of myself making a nice pretty bracket to mount the coil on where I want it. I seem to had forgotten my metal working skills and tools are near nil. I made a couple rough drafts but even in card board, they weren't what I want them to be. I may reevaluate this but I really want it where a 240 distributor lives.
 
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