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thelostartof LH 2.4 Chip Feedback Thread

gsellstr said:
Haven't really noticed any change in mileage, though I've still got that wonderful 'knock retard' issue that my car has had for years. One of these days I'll swap the flexplate...

I jumped on it today on the freeway, got a clean pull with 10.8-11.3 AFR's, as the speedo quickly passed 80 in second. It's kinda funny winding it up to 6800...the tach kinda starts going haywire!

Otherwise I'm still getting around 18 in town, haven't done any real long trips to get highway mileage yet.

I'll bug Andrew to post up how he likes his...
Click to expand...
My tach signal doesn't go haywire... At least not anymore. It would lose the tach signal when it hit the redline on previous tunes, which, in my opinion is no good. The car should remain to be limited by the Fuel computer, not the Spark computer... If you're losing spark that means that the limiter in the EZK is set lower than the limiter in the ECU. I'd prefer to have it the other way around.

With my last tune, I was limited by the spark between 6800 and 6900. Now I'm limited by fuel at 7500rpm, as I should be......... :omg: Not going there again until I have a new head and bottom end!!! That being said, the car runs a little richer than optimal above 6000rpm, but that's likely because the engine isn't flowing air anymore.

Regarding gas mileage, mine seems to have gone up a smidge from the last setup I had. Although power below 3000rpm is lower than the B/A/IPDT cams with this RSI cam, gas mileage with the latest ignition chip's advance curve seems to be about the same if not better. I'm definitely using more throttle and rpm than I used to in normal driving... Maybe because the car isn't making as much power, the larger throttle openings are helping out? Who knows. But I got 19.4mpg and 21.0 and 20.4 the last three tanks. None of which were all highway driving or "slow" driving. This current tank I'm trying to actually go for gas mileage with my normal commuting to see what I can do. That being said, for a while before that it was down in the 30s every day. Still, 18-19mpg was the norm for similar driving habits. I'll be going down to Davis next weekend, so we'll see if I can manage over 25.8mpg which is my best ever over the past 3.5 years.
 
My gas mileage just went up about 1+MPG.. but i think it's cuz cali just switched to the summer formulation. I'll give more feedback after another weeks' driving.

Otherwise, things are about the same as when i first reported.. i'd like to up the bewst soon tho. :-D
 
Gary keeps poking me with a stick so I will finally post. It took me a little over a week to run a full tank of juice. Here is my setup in the 940.

- Which chips were you running previously
stock EZK and ECU
- Did you install Fuel, Ignition, or both
Both
- What octane fuel AND what boost level are you running
I always run 91 and right now I am running ~11 psi
- Quick mod list of car
15g
3" turbo back exhaust
IPD turbo cam straight up
Gutted air box with K&N
brown tops @ 3 bar
stock AMM
stock I/C

- Impressions
I had Fred's chips in the 740 and really liked them. Due to the ECU difference I was unable to use them in the 940. Mike's chips gives a wide power band starting around 2K RPM, where Fred's hit hard fast and I can get on the freeway at 80mph without going to 3rd and not hitting red line. The throttle response is a little slow and there is a diapering flat spot around 2800 as the chips learn the curve that is almost gone. I think once my cam gear arrives and the timing is advanced a couple degrees the power band will come down and response will increase because that is where Gary is at now. WOT is grab your butt difference from stock. I will be dynoing the car after the Davis show so I can show real numbers as to power. I would recommend them highly at this point.
 
I've run my car about 700 miles on mike's chips (50/50 highway and city). I'm running 91 octane and around 12 psi (mods in my sig). Throttle response is improved significantly. My car is much faster mid-range RPMs than it was before. The most difference I felt is off boost with these chips. I have not noticed as much improvement on-boost, but then again I'm still running a stock exhaust system which is probably totally choking up at 4000rpms at 12psi. I'm sure once I get my full 3" exhaust I'll see much more gains from these chips at high rpms and 16-17psi.

I noticed a significant increase in mileage on my trip from LA-San Diego (~22mpg doing 80+ the entire way), but I also recently lowered my car and I'm unsure which contributed more to the mileage. Another thing I've noticed is that my Knocksense is going off far less than it used to before i got the chips.

Definitely worth the money paid for these chips!
 
Got mine 1.5 hours ago.

Installed them 45 minutes ago. Took 15 minutes because I needed a f@#king 8mm socket.

Chips went in without an issue. Car started & idled just fine. It smelled rather rich for the first 3-4 minutes. I just let it idle in the parking lot @ work for about 20 minutes & shut it down. I'll take it easy on the way home & report back.
 
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Ursan said:
Installed them 45 minutes ago. Took 15 minutes because I needed a f@#king 8mm socket.

Chips with in without an issue. Car started & idled just fine. It smelled rather rich for the first 3-4 minutes. I just let it idle in the parking lot @ work for about 20 minutes & shut it down. I'll take it easy on the way home & report back.
Click to expand...

I would take it easy until the oil is up to temp and then go ahead and drive the living piss out of it, helps the ECU learn.

At part throttle making peak boost you might notice a bit of a bog/miss around 3000-4000 rpm for the first 100-350 miles while things work themselves out
 
How does driving it at WOT help it learn if it doesn't read the oxygen sensor anymore? That'd be the opposite of training in my opinion... I'd think you'd like to let the car use it's oxygen sensor for feedback and make the necessary adjustments to make it work properly. Hold the car in gear and take it up to higher rpms at lower load levels, etc.
 
WOT will allow the ECU to see the full range of flow thru the AMM. While in CL it'll read the O2 readings for the short-term and long-term fuel trims, to see what it needs to scale the maps to, while the WOT runs set the range of the map.

At least that's my understanding. Mike?
 
I have just found that driving the car hard in and out of boost always worked out quicker than just driving around and staying out of it for a few days, being that you can not stay in boost for long periods of time there is tons of time being off the throttle and at light loads, but when you go to pass someone or leave a light get into the throttle.

LH is an evil beast and I have seen it do all kinds of odd things, I just know what works best for my car and pass that on. Just like how I found that driving around @ 10psi and then turning the boost up to 20psi caused the car to run lean, where as if you start the blank ECU tune/setup running 20psi it runs slightly rich, from there once the ECU figures out what it wants to do you turn it down to 10psi, things run fine, and then back up to 20psi it is rich. Where as if you let it learn at 10psi 20psi=lean.
 
Well, I let it warm up completely whilst I was replacing the gauge cluster lamps.

I noticed an odd click that seemed to coincide with the idling. I didn't notice it while driving, but the tach would be at about 900 & then there'd be this clunk from under the floor in the back seat & the idle would dip just a wee bit.

Clunk isn't the right word, more like a relay engagement sound?

I then did as you said & took the longish way home which is about 5 miles on the freeway. I just went wot until I hit speed. The boost didn't do it's up..up..up..down, down, down, down thing as it used to do, ie, brick wall, but I didn't notice any significant increase in power but that doesn't really surprise me.

I'm still waiting for the 3" t-back you'll eventually get to, but aside from that I'm still a Stage I cam & 55# injectors away from sweet sweet bliss.

I can say this, it's certainly no worse than before. It started first shot with no issues. It is just a wee bit eye wateringly rich still, but then again I've only put 7 miles on it.

Better rich than too lean.
 
Give it a tank or two to get fully learned. Took about 10 miles before we started noticing it on Andrew's car, and I've found it picks up pretty noticeably as you're nearing the end of that first tank.
 
the ECU learns like anything learns.. try x amount of spark timing, y amount of fuel at a given RPM and air flow level. If too lean/rich or advanced/retarded, then it will adjust itself accordingly. when it takes in thousands of readings per minute, it figures out what is best at what rpm and airflow volume.

disconnecting the battery for 10+ minutes resets the ECU.. I think you generally want to do that when making any engine mods otherwise it tries to run old spark and fuel maps on different hardware without much success (my car wouldn't even run for more than 20 seconds with a 3" AMM before I reset the ECU). disconnecting the ECU from the car will reset it as well.
 
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