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IRS Swap for Volvo 240??

stl522013

New member
Joined
May 3, 2018
I understand that this is not going to be cheap or easy, but if I wanted independent rear suspension in a Volvo 240, how would I go about it?
 
Cutting out a bunch of stuff, welding in a bunch of stuff, a lot of sleepless nights, and most importantly, a lot of money.

Where are you sourcing the IRS from?
Why do you want to do this?

Why not just buy a car that has IRS and mod it to your hearts content? Unsure where you are in the world but E36 and MX5s are dirt ****ing cheap these days and have a lot more aftermarket support than some Frankenstein Volvo ever will.
 
I know I could just slap an LS into a Miata and it would be fast, but that has been done before. Idk what I want to source the IRS out of, that is why I came here. What cars have an IRS that would best fit a 240?
 
I'd copy how the hot rod guys are adding IRS to older Muscle cars like the Camaros and Mustangs.

Measure your rear end axle width and hit up the wreckers and see what other cars have a similar width. Start with 3 series BMW and go up from there. Latest generation Mustang has IRS as well. I've seen complete drop out assemblies on eBay for $400... with suspension and brakes.
 
Question still stands though... why?

If you just want to do it because it hasn't been done... I can get on board with that. But if you're trying to make the car handle better or some other odd thought it'd be interesting to know.

You're new so maybe you're one of the ones that still sees Volvo's from the outside looking in but everything has been done in these cars too. RBs 2JZ LSx 302.

But it'd still be interesting to know what your logic is.
 
You’re not going to find a cut and dry how to. I think one or two people have done it. There’s some info on here if you search, but the people who have done it already had some idea of how to do it.
 
Look into the winters quick change IRS options for a 350z. The winters IRS center section, paired with the Porsche cv axles, and the geometry is looking super promising. High torque capacity, great geometry and if you don’t like the ratio, 5 minutes and 1/2 pint of fluid ( if you’re sloppy) and you have a new ratio. Problem.. expensive. Expect to drop 2-4K to get it right.
 
I'm only counting ~40k before labor - $15k for an LT1 connect-and-cruise, about $15k for an Art Morrison IRS subframe, the wheels are probably in the $4k range, and the JRZ shocks are $2kish from Kaplan. Definitely out of even a well heeled Turbobricker's budget, but not quiiiiiite six figures, I bet. What I /really/ want to know... is what's hidden in that Bosch breakerless ignition module :lol:

I've had this conversation with myself - if I've gotta break out a grinder and welder to fit a Toyota or Explorer stick axle when I snap my 1031, I might as well adapt an IRS subframe from something. The shortlist of cars that are roughly the right width, have off-the-shelf diff + 5-lug upgrades, and qualify as "multi-link" (vs. "semi-trailing arm): NA/NB Miata, FD RX7, GD Impreza, E36 BMW, S13/S14 240SX. And... I've got a spare Miata subframe from a friend's parts car sitting next to a '74 145 with rusted out framerails and a demolished panhard rod mount. Miata is always the answer - in this case, for how to make a car I was going to crush anyways even *more* unroadworthy :lol:
 
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I have a complete 2004 GTO IRS take out with all the sub=frame mounts that I saved for something like this.
You would have to shorten the half shafts, and struts.
Was behind an LS1 and 4L60, so should be fairly stout.

Rotor to rotor, with brake calipers and e=brake cables, $250, in western MA.
Not sure where you are, but shipping could be just as much so pick up if possible would be the smart bet.
 
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