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1984 242 lh2.4 swap issues (starts, then dies)

These cars heavily depend on the MAF signal compared to modern cars. It runs with the MAF unplugged!? Next step is try another MAF.

Or.... you may have huge air leaks. I did a headskaget job just about a year ago and I had a loose hose clamp and it barely ran. I recommend you check all you idle air hoses and intake hoses and their clamps. I use a smoke machine. What also works is having it running and hose down areas heavily with brake cleaner and see if you can get it to stumble or stall.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try the smoke trick after work and see if I can find anything and report back!
 
I've tried two methods of finding air leaks, and I found one minor that I've since then fixed, But sadly nothing has helped! I also tried a new MAF today, and just like the old one, the car starts, stutters then dies.
 
Also, I found a blue 2 pin plug that is on the LH harness that doesn't seem to have a place in my setup, could this mystery connector be anything to worry about?
 
Also, I found a blue 2 pin plug that is on the LH harness that doesn't seem to have a place in my setup, could this mystery connector be anything to worry about?
There are two 2-pin ECU configuration plugs right next to the main LH2.4 ECU connector, one's blue and one's black, with brown or brown/black wires. Both are supposed to have jumper wires in them. Is this what you're talking about?
 
There are two 2-pin ECU configuration plugs right next to the main LH2.4 ECU connector, one's blue and one's black, with brown or brown/black wires. Both are supposed to have jumper wires in them. Is this what you're talking about?


No thise arent the connections I was speaking of. There's a blue connector identical to the one that plugs in to the knock sensor, but I don't see a place for it on my car.
 
UPDATE:

I got the new wire for the MAF extension as well as the 4th new MAF and it started and held idle, however, would backfire and have an almost anti-lag sound popping when the RPM changed, as well as a 17.5 AFR. I changed out injectors with a known good set but the car wouldn't start after that. I took out the spark plugs and turned over the car AND WOW IS THERE A LOT OF FUEL SPRAYING OUT! I then tested both sets of injectors out of the manifold and they all four spray continuously at max flow. Did I freak the ECU out somehow? and why would the car idle fine but have hesitation and popping under load? anything would help, thanks.
 
Bump, I swung by last night, the car runs, but it seemed like the timing was off some. I asked him to pull the starter and verify the flywheel was oriented properly at TDC, it is in the correct position.

After that he pulled some plug wires and determined there was no spark to cylinders 2 & 3, Without diving in too far, what could be some potential issues causing a partial no spark?
 
Bump, I swung by last night, the car runs, but it seemed like the timing was off some. I asked him to pull the starter and verify the flywheel was oriented properly at TDC, it is in the correct position.

After that he pulled some plug wires and determined there was no spark to cylinders 2 & 3, Without diving in too far, what could be some potential issues causing a partial no spark?

Follow up on this bit of mystery I have replaced the following: coil, wires, cap, and distributor. I also checked and cleaned all crucial wires that signal the coil to fire and they are good. I now have spark on all four plugs, but it is extremely weak and intermittent. This is strange to me seeing that the coil produces a large healthy spark when the car is cranked! Any ideas are helpful! Thanks!
 
I have successfully replaced everything at this point, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and coil, which he all been tested and found to be operational on a 91 lh 2.4 wagon. I have all timing marking up where it should, and still a very weak spark. I noticed the distributor sparking and grounding to the block a couple times when my friend cranked it over. Is there a sure fire way to set up the distributor aside from using the notch and being at TDC? Thanks
 
The weak spark is not related to distributor timing. Explain more about the distributor sparking.have you checked all of the ground connections,even the negative battery cable?
 
The battery is fully charged and is good to go! Yeah, so when I crank the car I hear all the right little cracks and pops of spark, but I get weak spark from the plugs, and I even saw a large spark shoot from under the cap and ground itself. I'll clean and check all grounds after work! Thanks!
 
Hey yall,

So I bought brand new OEM timing covers back and front and reset all timing to spec. When I checked with the timing light I was on 100% on. I've checked all grounds, cleaned and replaced the contacts, and confirmed a strong spark coming from the coil. The frustrating bit is the weak and inconsistent spark coming from the distributor to the spark plugs. I've replaced the cap, rotor, wires, and tested it all on a running LH 2.4 240 wagon and everything worked perfectly. Is there any way that I have the incorrect distributor? Does the distributor have to be LH 2.4? is there a difference? Anything helps at this point.

Thanks, A man ready to shoot his own leg off for a running car
 
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