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B21FT without turbo is the best
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B21FT without turbo is the best
I been under the impression that the B21F are junk
the b21ft are good and b23s
Uhhh no. As far as I know they both use M rods and are as close to indestructible as a stock Volvo engine gets. But I haven?t done enough research to confirm that.
been wrong on more than one occasion but its not just the rods that make it stout
You’re right. There was a difference in material used in the block casting and they wear extremely well in comparison to the b230 engines (which also wear pretty well).
But mainly it’s the rods that make the bottom end so stout and heavy and slow to rev compared with any design after 1969
Yes also has a lot to do with crank steered vs piston steered rods. Again, just what I've read on here many many times.Very interesting...now you know about cast iron?
Where'd you learn that? Link!
It couldn't possibly be a combination of a better wrist pin locations and longer rods and the resultant reduced tendency for side-thrust from less rod angulation, and pistons wanting to tip?
Why do you suppose everybody else in the world had gone away from pistons with compression heights in the 45-46mm range--except conservative old German Opel by the late 60s? And everything from Japan to USA to Germany and Sweden had gone to pistons with compression heights around 39,5* to 41,5mm...And by the early 80s around 35mm?
And by the 1990 around 30-32mm? Everybody..from Japan to Germany and America.
Do tell.
You have an opinion on everything, that's fine..But tell us some facts..
And you seem certain that the forged steel crankshaft that is bigger in every dimension that a Small Block Chevy crank contributed nothing, it was the rods that made the B21/b23 stout..Hmmmm Live and learn..
*Even Volvo themselves with the introduction 15 years after everybody else of the B200/B230 that had 39,7mm comp height.
The B21s are known for running quietly with 300,000+ miles on them.
Piston material and nickel content in the blocks. The B21/23 engines run quiet almost forever until the bearings wear out and they start knocking. I've seen them with 450,000 miles on them running quietly. Quietly is a relative term. New, they were not a quiet engine. A 6 cylinder whiteblock is so smooth and quiet when in good shape I have accidentally tried to restart one while it was running. It was the first one I owned. A pristine 90K mile 960 sedan. I thought it has stalled after backing it up in my driveway. That was a horrible sound when the starter tried to engage the flywheel at 750 RPM. It's only happened once.
Longevity of b21 and adding a turbo are not the same things
Skinny rod early 230 go forever also
Seen way more b21s with a hole in the block than early b230.
Didn't say they won't go forever, but that doesn't mean they wear as well as a b21. Idc how many redblocks you've neglected and blown up. Makes no difference to me.
Shut up
But you say they are stout and your example is longevity and rods
Nothing was said about me blowing them up
B21F
With a +T longevity.. show me 2 builds
What I claimed is that they weren?t good for a plus T... right or wrong I really don?t know.
The way they came from Sweden and longevity I know about. So gape that TB search engine and show me what you found inside
why tf would a +t not work in the long term?? There is nothing inherently wrong with the NA block or internals. If anything they make a better DD torquey motor. Have fun with a 7.5:1 CR. Kinda sucks when not in boost.
Less typing more gapeing TB
Don't need to gape. Use your head.
Ok just one build then
Oh, lets run this back. It sounds like OP wants simple bolt-ons which are easily sourced and add mid-range grunt; making his free NA, Auto 740 more fun to drive. Right now something as involved as a +T is out of the question.
OP the short answer is there is hardly any "off the shelf" support for any of these cars, turbo or NA. If a +T is out, I assume swapping in a JV sourced longblock is not going to happen.
If you want easy bolt ons, you have what you've found... basically sourcing a turbo exhaust and retrofitting it to your NA for "more flow" and the VX cam. The exhaust really won't do much, but make it a bit louder (I know because I did this to my old NA940) and the VX cam won't do a whole lot, maybe a handful of hp at specific spot on the rev range. You'll lose some low rev power, so you'll have to couple that VX with an adjustable cam gear (Yoshifab, STS Machinine and IPD all offer variations). K&N filter won't do much, especially on an NA... so really yeah that's about it.
Honestly, the biggest bang for your buck when it comes to upping enjoyment would be from suspension mods. Some sport springs, sway bars, chassis bracing and if you want fancier shocks (bilstein or koni)... Be aware though... the older you are and the further you go down that road the less you'll like DDing the car. I recommend fresh gas pressurized shocks/struts, sways and lower chassis braces for a nice handling DD, sport/lowering springs if you want to hunker it down a bit.
That's my no BS 2 cents.
What about gearing?
it's the secret of happiness duuuuuuuuude.
@Vincent Gagnon:
Thanks for the tip. Would like to know more of what you're thinking here
This thread will be closed/cleaned up soon I'm sure, but these should be the main take aways for the questions asked.