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SeanHodgins 1981 242 GLT

Change machine shop. The question should be can I run stock piston in there or I need to go OS1. It would need to have quite some visual wear before needing that big of an overbore.
 
Its kind of limited around here. But I do trust the guys, they're pretty well known, old guys though stuck in their ways mostly, but I basically said "What if they were bored to .6mm" and he said there would still be a lip, and didn't think it would be a good idea to do. He didn't disagree when I said maybe I would just leave the bored the way they are and run the stock pistons. There was visual wear, and a lip you can catch with your finger nail(you can see in the pictures). Its just weird cause the car was owned by an old guy who crunched the car(totalled) still running after, came from a volvo shop who knew him and knew took care of it. Maybe I'm just not a good judge of a bad engine.

Am I stupid for wanting to keep the squirter motor? I don't really want to do the squirter mod on an N/A block, especially cause every one I find has high km.

Its also already been hot tanked and cleaned up... so basically throwing money away if I don't use it.
 
Hodginsa said:
Its kind of limited around here. But I do trust the guys, they're pretty well known, old guys though stuck in their ways mostly, but I basically said "What if they were bored to .6mm" and he said there would still be a lip, and didn't think it would be a good idea to do. He didn't disagree when I said maybe I would just leave the bored the way they are and run the stock pistons. There was visual wear, and a lip you can catch with your finger nail(you can see in the pictures). Its just weird cause the car was owned by an old guy who crunched the car(totalled) still running after, came from a volvo shop who knew him and knew took care of it. Maybe I'm just not a good judge of a bad engine.

Am I stupid for wanting to keep the squirter motor? I don't really want to do the squirter mod on an N/A block, especially cause every one I find has high km.

Its also already been hot tanked and cleaned up... so basically throwing money away if I don't use it.
Click to expand...

Squirter mod is very quick and easy with the JVL kit, getting your hands on the kit is the hard part. knocking off 80+ dollars by getting the block with squirters instead of buying new ones is good though.
 
Just going to take down the ridge and run the block. Maybe if I stumble upon a low km N/A Ill buy it for kicks. You're right, at least I didn't have to buy BMW squirters, which I guaranty are more than $80 here in canada.

So... Today I picked up a rebuilt WC T5 Trans with a bent shift fork for $200, and this...

turbo-1.jpg


GT35R Dual ball bearing, ceramic coated hot side and polished(not my style but whatever), never been used. and other goodies.

edit: The sight of the turbo has to at least make this a three star thread... hahaha
 
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Big day still no car. Hey Roger-Dee I'm going to need a bellhousing adapter soon...


Got the T5 cheap cause the PO thought it had a bent shift fork. He said it had been rebuilt recently, but not I'm not so sure. Everything looks newish though! Except for a couple things. Opened her up and found that the shifters were not bent, I don't think. Forgot to get a shot of the forks to make sure, maybe someone can chime in.

TransTearDown-1.jpg


TransTearDown-2.jpg


Then I noticed something. Third and fourth selection gear was too far foward, and really stuck.

TransTearDown-4.jpg


Hmm, Something isn't right in this picture.

TransTearDown-3.jpg


Yep, I don't think that part is supposed to be in two.

Proceeded to remove the drive shaft.

TransTearDown-6.jpg


TransTearDown-7.jpg


TransTearDown-8.jpg


This is supposed to be like this right? The selection gear tension tooth(I don't know the real name) was cracked in half. It would let you go into fourth but then move and not let it back out. Simple fix! Now where to get parts???
 
Some rod in the motor? I want to put H-beams in but RSI won't respond to my email and I don't want to just order some and have them come in a few months. I also need SS valves and was going to get valve springs and retainers while I was at it. Do you have this stuff in Canada already? Cause I need to buy soon. The shop needs the valves to finish the head.

Oh yeah, reply to my PM! Hah
 
Hmm, what came in it? Some of the translations are throwing me off haha

Prices seem a lot higher aren't they? MLS HG is like $150 more than here

double edit: they sell just rods, at the same price include VAT. sweet.
 
I got the sh*tty scantech top and bottem end gasket and seal kit. I would order the Elring top and bottom kit from FCP personally. See if Lars will knock the price down if you don't go for the gasket and seal kit.

The rods came with ARP bolts and it looks like you get crank and intermediate shaft bearings. It did not turn out to be that different price wise once shipped from what I recall. The benefit was the parts were in stock and communication was much easier than other vendors at the time.

Really it comes down to what you want to do. This is just another option available.
 
Hmm, yeah I've got an order on FCP lined up already(pistons, gaskets and seals, bearings...) and my friend is a preferred 500 customer so hes going to order it for me and get a discount. I only see victor reinz on FCP though. Those were the kits I was going to buy, now that I see you can get the rods individually from the Swedish site Ill probably just get the rods there.

Its probably just that Cometic is a US supplier(I think?) that would make them so expensive there...
It sucks cause I still need an RSI Cam and the Valves from RSI.
We need a Vendor section of this forum.
 
Check with knox for the valvetrain, he was fast to ship when i ordered mine. Send your email to ben at rsi, he answer fast and i would really suggest putting some rods while you're at it.
 
Sent knox an email. I do plan on putting rods in, its whether I get them from RSI or not. Ill try to email ben this time instead of just RSI. The ones from sweden look like they would cost pretty much the same amount in the end. But I need a cam from RSI. Damn lack of suppliers! haha I gotta stop stressing myself out, too many classes to worry about this project!
 
Hmm, well no word yet from anyone! At least FCP has my pistons on the way.

So for my engine harness I decided to do the mil-spec type bayonet connector.
One of these..
RMS%20MS24264R22B12%20MATE%20MS24266R22B12-resized-600.png


Anyone who knows these, knows they are not cheap! So I went to the coolest junk electronics place, and out of a ton of stuff I managed to find one. Just one, and not bayonet but still cool. Got it for 5 bucks! But its not the type with the bolted mount on the one side. So I'm going to machine a mount at my school(getting lots of machine time! -moneys worth)

Milspec1.jpg


Milspec2.jpg


This is where the mount will attach instead of the wire protector.

WireHarnessPlugMount2.jpg


I've got so much stuff that I want to make, and my classes are taking up all my machining time. Not to mention other students doing stuff.
 
So I get call today. Guy from the shop where I got the motor from calls me and says hes dismantling a 94 940 Turbo and wondered if I want the motor, 400k km on it, but running. I obviously say well I just bought one don't really need it, how much? $75 later, I'm driving home with a second 94 motor, not bad for spare parts!
 
Haha, many available? I do not have a car yet. I would love a 242 that doesn't have too much rust.

I've been looking at some and calling this person and that, but nothing that suits my needs yet. Went to look at a 242 near me but it was too rusty, which sucks cause I don't think there is much anyone can do with it. The owner is actually new on the boards here, but doesn't post much I don't think. As much as I would hate to see a 242 go to a scrapers, it may happen. My welding skill level is not up to the task of the car.
 
Anyone know if when replacing the 3-4 synchronizer plates in the T5 trans, it becomes really really hard to shift? I don't have the shifter on yet, but I just know moving the synchronizing ring is really hard now.
 
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