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2.5" vs 3" hoodpipe for b230ft

the OE downpipe is just about 2.5 inches, and not a bad piece. would suggest looking elsewhere/waiting.
 
Broke4speed said:
I learned this lesson a looooooong time ago: If you can't afford to do it right, don't do it.

A hood pipe is far from the best/cheapest answer. If you're hell bent on an open exhaust, get a 90* mandrel bend, the same bend you'd use to make the hood pipe, and point it down instead of up. That way, you'll still have the extreme loudness, and will only get pulled over for noise violations and not safety/emissions violations.

A 3" open vs. a 2.5" open isn't a big deal, IMO. I'd go with the cheaper of the two, depending on what they charge to adapt the piping to the turbo.
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THIS. ;-):cool:
 
maxitoman007 said:
Oh I didn't realize it was the same amount of piping. I thought it would be much longer to do a downpipe. Will there be a big difference between a 3" open downpipe and a 2.5" ? I have much better access to 2.5" at the moment but I'll work out how to get 3" if it shows significant performance gains.
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To do a FULL downpipe makes kind of a square Z shape. To do a simple turn down is just the same as pointing up out of the hood or down at the ground. If you aim it down, WHEN you realize you don't like it... you can just tack the back pieces on and you have your downpipe whereas if it goes out the hood, you have to cut re-weld and then figure out how to address the hole in your hood.

Regarding the 2.5 vs 3. Depending on what turbo you go with... it will make a difference. I believe that Volvo used metric spec piping and the stock turbo exhaust was 60mm (don't quote me on that). IPD turbo exhaust is 2.5 I believe. Most of us are running 3" pipe for our exhaust I believe.

With such a short pipe, I don't think you'll see any gains from one over the other... but 3" is probably more ideal long run.

If you use a Volvo turbo with a conical flange, you'll need the cone part first anyhow.
 
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