240 Should I Run this CPR?

First of all if this forum did not exist I would not be part of the Volvo life style and play with my car, so thank you to each and every TB Guru.

?84 242 Turbo K-Jet I have owned this car for a couple of months, it has 201K miles but the last 13 years it logged roughly 1K, so it sat in the persons garage.

When I got her she had major cold start problems. Did the tune up thing with quality parts, not much change. Ran some 44K through her, noticed a difference. Then we noticed the horrible smell from the gas tank, drained the foul gas and the rust was horrible!! So replaced the tank and everything associated with it. Cold start improved a TINY bit but not much.

She did not pass emissions test here in CO, High HC I think the number was double the limit?

I replaced the O2 sensor last weekend, thought she would pass, NOPE! Same number!

I went to a local Volvo mechanic here in town for first time, he said very quickly that the CPR was bad(I just should have listened to you guys here and done it in the first place ) She was pushing 5.8 bar when should have been I think at 3.2 bar? Anyways that was Friday.

Just now took it off, here it is:


I wonder why it was pushing such high pressure??? JESUS WAS THE SCREEN PACKED

I cleaned it up sorta ok:



So my question is this, should I throw it back on or is there anything inside like the diaphragm that might also need cleaning up?(there?s one in there, right? I?ve looked at a lot of green book schematic?s last few days so maybe not?)

My thought is the screen caught it all, or at least I hope so!?!?

I realize it?s a gamble but do you see any reason why I should not put it back on and see if she runs with any improvement? It?s easy enough to swap out if I need to change it again.

Thanks in advance for the input!!!

A fellow member just suggested something in PM, can I soak the entire CPR overnight or for a few hours or???? Would this help breakup whatever is inside? I’m wondering if this would have an affect on the electrical plug? I could wrap it up with tape I guess?

Check out this write up on servicing the WUR (CPR).

http://b2resource.com/PDFs/wurservicing.pdf

When I first bought my kjet turbo it had a plugged control pressure regulator. The only way to know is what your shop said. He measured control pressure. Mine I replaced with a rebuild. If your area uses alcohol in the gas it might be better to use a rebuild with seals that are hopefully made to work with gas/alcohol fuel. This area uses 10% alkyhol in the gas and I think it is a bit tough on the old kjet system seals.

Will do research on the gas, also where did you get your rebuilt unit 242gt? If you don’t mind me asking? I know there is a Delorean guy in TX that does CIS and he has several rebuilt units but not sure if he has a 128, will check on that later tonight I suppose, he just so expensive! But you get what you pay for, right!?!?

Thank you HiperFauto, I will read that article after I have dinner with the wife.

I was curious and found this brickboard post that shows that the filter screen is actually a stack of filter screens:
https://www.brickboard.com/PRINT/?top=1408833

If you flush both inlet and outlet sides with carb cleaner, without CPR disassembly, is this OK? and will it clean out rust particles? Is it better to follow HiPerf's link and take it apart to flush from both sides?

As far as rust in the system goes, eeuroparts lists this fuel filter as a "higher filtration" alternative to the standard filter:
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/32313/Fuel-Filter-Higher-Filtration-71005/

Will this help get any remaining rust out of the system or does it reduce flow/pressure too much for Turbo K-Jet?

The stock fuel filter is pretty good. I would just change it a couple times to help get the system to a clean level. Use a thread sealant on the fittings so you don't have to torque them too tight. I think the rebuilt cpr unit was one of the big rebuilder places like fuel injection corp. If I have the money I buy them on ebay when they come up.

Interesting brickboard find Bob!

And I too am curious about whether or not this finer filter you found would choke the K-Jet system off??? If not I will put it on, obviously there is more rust and old fuel varnish floating around in the lines that could move around.

Ok the last filter was put on not 50 miles ago so I’ll Just change it again with another stock soon.

The CPR is an extremely simply device not requiring precision anything to clean and restore.

If you determine that the heating coil has continuity take it apart. If not, it probably needs to be replaced.

The filter screens can be cleaned with brake cleaner and air.

The nozzle to disk needs to be VERY clean. Again brake cleaner and air.

No big high pressure seal issues.

Clean it up and fuel pressure test the results. Look up the cool/hot pressure requirement of you device and compare to results.

Don't have the pressure test equipment? Got $30? http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=289775

Ok TestPoint, if I measure the resistance at the terminals, how do I know what should it be? The article from above says 15-30 Ohms is typical. So if it in this range I?m good or should I hit a specific #?(I apologize I don?t know if it should be exacting or not)

And I have the equip to test the fuel pressure.

The article pic?s were reassuring as to whether or not I could tackle taking it apart but I?m worried about opening it and ruining my core charge fee. That stupid sucker is worth $250 undamaged!

So I?m just wrestling with whether or not to buy a rebuilt unit from the DeLorean guy in Tx or gamble.....

A rusty tank can cause lots of problems



The resistance should be something less than 30 ohms. It is just a heating element. It either works or doesn't.

There is no real fuel pressure issues inside the unit, just that the filter and disk and nozzle are clean. There is no real wear at the pressure regulation point just trash concerns.

Rust from the tank especially will blow through the best filter and foul both the CPR and fuel distributor.

I would like to buy all the copper gasket/washers I’m going to eventually need for my fuel system as I work on it. What size gasket/washers should I order?

Any suggestions??

Are the 2 bolt sizes that are on the WUR/CPR the only 2 used on the fuel system? Like on the fuel distributor? I just want to buy everything that I need once.

I never stopped to count them. Most are 8mm, 2 to a connection so that's 16 on fuel lines, plus a couple on the frequency valve. There are various configurations of cold start injectors using 8mm. Six 8mm and two 10mm on CPR lines and four 12mm on the fuel distributor.

You might pull a fuel system diagram to verify or correct the above.

You will find these simple little copper washers very expensive when carrying the Bosch brand. Most reuse after a little sanding on a flat block and heating with a torch. Tightening them down causes them to get brittle and the heating removes that.

Thanks TestPoint, ya you are not joking about expensive when buying Bosch/Volvo. The dealer quoted me $.80 per washer, typical dealer gorilla rape!!! Ouch!

Thanks

80? each is a deal when you check out the list price.

To do everything under the hood it takes:

20-8mm washers part # 947620, list price 90? ea.
2-10mm washers part #18665, list price $1.39 ea.
5-12mm washers part #11994, list price #1.39 ea.

To do the filter you'll need:

2-12mm washers part # 11994, list price $1.39 ea.
2-14mm washers part # 18671, list price $1.39 ea.

That said, I can do all 31 washers for $15.50 (50? ea.) + shipping.

Sounds perfect Hiperfauto, I’ll send you a PM right now!