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Oil temp?

Some of us do...

Depends on what kind of cooler setup and airflow you have. Mine right now with the RX7 cooler, 75C cooler stat from a B21FT, middle of summer in traffic will hit around 210-220F. With the cooler in nearly the same location, different belly pan, it would hit 270F.

The factory oil cooler t-stat is a 95C stat, so that should give you a starting point at least.
 
I've been seeing 110 C lately after getting on it. Last year (with less boost) I was always around 100 C. This is with the stock turbo oil cooler and lines.
 
I saw a max around ~230 F after ten minutes of autocross (read: absolute flogging it in second gear). If I drive it hard on the street when it's 93 F ambient like it has been lately I'll touch 210 F but it drops fast. Stock heat exchanger front-mounted with -10 lines.
 
Stiggy Pop said:
I saw a max around ~230 F after ten minutes of autocross (read: absolute flogging it in second gear). If I drive it hard on the street when it's 93 F ambient like it has been lately I'll touch 210 F but it drops fast. Stock heat exchanger front-mounted with -10 lines.
Click to expand...

Looks like I need to do something about my oil cooler.
 
t8fanning said:
Looks like I need to do something about my oil cooler.
Click to expand...

Think I mentioned to you earlier in the year the next thing I want to play with is some sheetmetal and a brake to make ducting for the front of the car. I think my water temps creep up too quickly. I've got to really run it to build up the oil temps though.
 
Ducting makes a HUGE difference. I played with a ton of options, finally found having a solid bellypan from the airdam to the crossmember resolved a lot of my oil cooling issues (RX7 cooler is mounted right behind the airdam opening).

One other thing I noted as well was a modification to the grille. I added an insert into the airdam opening, a section of grille I snagged from an S40. Purely for aesthetics, but it also helped oil temps. The top part of the slats is about 3/4" wide, the bottom is only 1/4", so it causes some turbulence, pulls air in better. I tried the same concept on the eggcrate, saw the e-fan runs less on the freeway.
 
gsellstr said:
Ducting makes a HUGE difference. I played with a ton of options, finally found having a solid bellypan from the airdam to the crossmember resolved a lot of my oil cooling issues (RX7 cooler is mounted right behind the airdam opening).

One other thing I noted as well was a modification to the grille. I added an insert into the airdam opening, a section of grille I snagged from an S40. Purely for aesthetics, but it also helped oil temps. The top part of the slats is about 3/4" wide, the bottom is only 1/4", so it causes some turbulence, pulls air in better. I tried the same concept on the eggcrate, saw the e-fan runs less on the freeway.
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Photos?
 
Are you guys all running drain plug temp senders? I want to see what my oil temp does and I'm not sure where to locate the sender. Pan, before cooler, after cooler, etc?
 
Stiggy Pop said:
Think I mentioned to you earlier in the year the next thing I want to play with is some sheetmetal and a brake to make ducting for the front of the car. I think my water temps creep up too quickly. I've got to really run it to build up the oil temps though.
Click to expand...

Well when do you it, just go ahead and make two ;-).

What oil do you use? That will likely cause some differences. I'm only using cheapo conventional oil for break in, which apparently has a lower heat capacity than synthetic. That might explain my higher temps.

Tfrasca said:
Are you guys all running drain plug temp senders? I want to see what my oil temp does and I'm not sure where to locate the sender. Pan, before cooler, after cooler, etc?
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Mine is in a fitting I welded to the side of the pan.
 
My Lemons car [94 b230ft, aftermarket sandwich plate that I think is a 90 c tstat] has always ran 105-115 after a few hard laps and will stay there for well over an hour. Have about 3k race miles on it

Tfrasca said:
Are you guys all running drain plug temp senders? I want to see what my oil temp does and I'm not sure where to locate the sender. Pan, before cooler, after cooler, etc?
Click to expand...

I am probing it in the factory oil feed hole on the side of the block
 
pat244ti said:
My Lemons car [94 b230ft, aftermarket sandwich plate that I think is a 90 c tstat] has always ran 105-115 after a few hard laps and will stay there for well over an hour. Have about 3k race miles on it



I am probing it in the factory oil feed hole on the side of the block
Click to expand...

Do you think exhaust manifold temp is affecting the sender there?
 
Tfrasca said:
Do you think exhaust manifold temp is affecting the sender there?
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The first event [which I barely had the car finished for in time with an R sport cluster] I ran it bare and exposed. Worked the whole weekend but the wire got cooked.

I swapped to a different gauge and installed a different sender, and that time I wrapped it in this stuff and routed it close to the block.

High-Temperature-Resistance-Silicone-Rubber-Coated-Fiberglass-Insulation-Fireproof-Sleeve-for-Hydraulic-Hose.jpg


No problems yet. I like not having it at the bottom of the pan, especially on a low car. Gave the rally car the same treatment despite not being low

Crazy Taxi has the probe at the bottom of the pan, both races it has lost the wire. Last race I think someone got curb happy becuase the prong on the sender got smashed off.
 
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Drain plug sender here as well, but I have a skid plate that helps protect it.

Just so happens I have a pic of the grille...
BJkMyscl.jpg
 
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