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Volvo 122 Transmission Seals

For future reference, oil seals like that are fairly generic and can be ordered by OD/ID/thickness, often from any auto parts store. Just need a caliper to measure your bore and shaft. Or clean your old one and get the part number off it.
 
Can anyone tell me how to get the rear main seal out? I heard special tool. Ive tried using a curved pic, but its not budging.
 
Method 1: Get a seal puller like this

98101.jpg


Method 2: Slip a long thin screwdriver between the crank and seal, then pry.

Method 3: Punch a small hole in the seal and insert in a sheet metal screw, then pull or pry on the screw.

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If you meant the trans output shaft seal use one of these

LIL-56750_ml.jpg


or knock it out with a screwdriver from the back side since you have the housing off.
 
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hiperfauto said:
Method 1: Get a seal puller like this


If you meant the trans output shaft seal use one of these

[IMG]http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/LIL-56750_ml.jpg

or knock it out with a screwdriver from the back side since you have the housing off.
Click to expand...


I got that tool from autozone and it popped right off. I have the housing back on and it seemed to be ok. the thinking is that if it was hard to get back on that something could be wrong yeah? So I may be out of the woods?
 
You must have pulled the gear behind the bearing housing out enough to dislocate the shift dogs from the synchros. The dogs must be located in the cutouts in the synchros.

656138.jpg
 
hiperfauto said:
You must have pulled the gear behind the bearing housing out enough to dislocate the shift dogs from the synchros. The dogs must be located in the cutouts in the synchros.

656138.jpg
Click to expand...

Im assuming ill need to drop the transmission now, but is this a difficult thing to get back to working order?
 
It's not difficult for me, but then I do these in my sleep.

You'll need to remove the shift shafts and rear bearing housing to align the synchros. The nose of the trans should be pointing down to keep the synchros in place while you reinstall the rear bearing housing.

If any of the dogs or spring clip fell out, you'll have to completely disassemble the trans.
 
hiperfauto said:
It's not difficult for me, but then I do these in my sleep.

You'll need to remove the shift shafts and rear bearing housing to align the synchros. The nose of the trans should be pointing down to keep the synchros in place while you reinstall the rear bearing housing.

If any of the dogs or spring clip fell out, you'll have to completely disassemble the trans.
Click to expand...

sounds like daunting a task. Getting married in a week and a half and was hoping to use the car. Not looking so likely.
 
Yeah there are loose parts at the bottom of the transmission now. So since I dont even want to attempt rebuilding it on account of my inexperience with these, im pulling one from a local junk yard that just happens to have a '65 sedan with a 4-speed. Any tricks to removing and reinstalling?
 
I was going to say, at this point, there's a chance you bent some of the parts pressing it all back together. I was goig to suggest getting another trans and perhaps keeping this around to rebuild when you have more spare time.

I took my M41 all the way apart once to replace some broken syncro rings, it's a fiddly,tedious task. With a bunch of non-intuitive non obvious steps needed to make it all work.. It all worked properly afterward, but still, I'd rather take a motor apart and put it back together vs. a transmission. All those little spring clips and little fiddly collar keeper things. And all the loose needle bearings. Sheesh.
 
JohnMc said:
I was going to say, at this point, there's a chance you bent some of the parts pressing it all back together. I was goig to suggest getting another trans and perhaps keeping this around to rebuild when you have more spare time.

I took my M41 all the way apart once to replace some broken syncro rings, it's a fiddly,tedious task. With a bunch of non-intuitive non obvious steps needed to make it all work.. It all worked properly afterward, but still, I'd rather take a motor apart and put it back together vs. a transmission. All those little spring clips and little fiddly collar keeper things. And all the loose needle bearings. Sheesh.
Click to expand...


Yeah, definitely overwhelming for me. Is the trans removal and installation pretty straightforward? Im going to get into it today
 
Can't really think of any major gotcha's. I think there's enough clearance to get the trans unbolted from the bellhousing. You at least have more room than I do in the PV.

Just be aware of the 'flange' issue. Volvo used at least 3 different flange sizes on the older cars, generally larger flanges on the more powerful versions (1800), smaller on the less (PV). But really, seems random at times.

Sometimes the flanges don't interchange, then your driveshaft doesn't fit. Hopefully you don't run into that issue. Might pull your old flange and take it with you, see if it matches or will swap onto the trans you're going to get.
 
Might as well try to fix the one you've got.

Can't hurt. Well, it might.

Pull the trans, pull the top cover, pull the shift rods. Then pull the output shaft and see what went back together wrong on that 3/4 shifter collar area.

Here are some nice articles from VClassics:

An intro to the goings-on inside that red trans case: http://www.vclassics.com/archive/tranhow.htm
And the nicely detailed (with pictures) article detailing the sdissassembly and reassembly process: http://www.vclassics.com/archive/tranreb.htm

I def. used that second one when doing the work on my M41. Printed it out, sat it by the work bench, referred to it frequently. I doubt it would have gone well at all without it.
 
In my case I didn't need the press or the 'long' gear puller. I didn't need to take mine all the way apart, I just needed to take the sections of the mainshaft out, but could otherwise mostly leave them together. The bearings (hard to get to, require pressing) didn't need to be replaced, just the cracked syncro rings. Still, it had to come very far apart just to do that. The input shaft won't come out unless you drop the layshaft cluster, and that's a tricky thing to do and undo.

Just like the article says, you need a nice clean uncluttered work surface, some time and concentration and organization. There's not really a lot to it, it's just non-obvious tricky finicky style work.
 
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