• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

240 Running a bit toasty

92White240

New member
Joined
Mar 27, 2020
Location
pnw
So I've started to notice, after bypassing the compensator, my temp reads a bit high. It never gets really uncomfortable hot, maybe a needle-width's above middle most of the time, is this normal? If not, what should I check for the cause?
 
So I've started to notice, after bypassing the compensator, my temp reads a bit high. It never gets really uncomfortable hot, maybe a needle-width's above middle most of the time, is this normal? If not, what should I check for the cause?

this has been beaten to death.
the compensator was used to avoid questions exactly like this.
the cause is bypass of the board.
Did you not read any of the threads talking about this?:-P
as above, use an IR thermometer on thermostat housing to eval ACTUAL temp and correlate to the gauge. the needle will not always be deadlocked on 9pm, actual temps vary slightly.

Short answer, the red zone is bad, below that, relax.

Great rela life demonstration what frustrated Volvo enough to make the faker a thing
 
this has been beaten to death.
the compensator was used to avoid questions exactly like this.
the cause is bypass of the board.
Did you not read any of the threads talking about this?:-P
as above, use an IR thermometer on thermostat housing to eval ACTUAL temp and correlate to the gauge. the needle will not always be deadlocked on 9pm, actual temps vary slightly.

Short answer, the red zone is bad, below that, relax.

Great rela life demonstration what frustrated Volvo enough to make the faker a thing

My compensator was causing the reading to be right under the red constantly, so I removed it, and I tried searching threads and all I could find it stuff on what to replace for a hot car. And I understand there's been many questions on this sort of topic, but, and not trying to be mean or sarcastic, do you really expect there to be a whole set of new content/threads everyday on this site?
 
My compensator was causing the reading to be right under the red constantly, so I removed it, and I tried searching threads and all I could find it stuff on what to replace for a hot car. And I understand there's been many questions on this sort of topic, but, and not trying to be mean or sarcastic, do you really expect there to be a whole set of new content/threads everyday on this site?

compensator "turbobricks"
159 esults on google
And I assume you must have learned a bit about the compensator when you learned that it existed and decided to bypass it.
To me, very puzzling sequence...
How does one learn to bypass the compensator without understanding what happens after
do you really expect there to be a whole set of new content/threads everyday on this site?
yes I do, but I also expect and know most will be rehashed already answered questions by the lazy. '

no worries, sarcasm is not troublesome to me
 
compensator "turbobricks"
159 esults on google
And I assume you must have learned a bit about the compensator when you learned that it existed and decided to bypass it.
To me, very puzzling sequence...
How does one learn to bypass the compensator without understanding what happens after

This is my first car and as such, don't know much about cars. I was told about compensator boards by my dad whos had a fair bit of 240s, and wasn't yet aware of turbobrick's existence, so I just knew it was the problem, and he and I bypassed it. So yea puzzling. Thanks for the feedback, just didn't know to what degree running "warm" was normal
 
In general when you bypass the circuit. It causes the gauge to react properly to the engine. So you'll see the needle move about a bit more like for example as the thermostat opens and then temps level off you can see a spike on the gauge. Or if you are climbing a long hill loading the engine more. You'll see the gauge rise now because you don't have that stupid faker board in there.
 
In general when you bypass the circuit. It causes the gauge to react properly to the engine. So you'll see the needle move about a bit more like for example as the thermostat opens and then temps level off you can see a spike on the gauge. Or if you are climbing a long hill loading the engine more. You'll see the gauge rise now because you don't have that stupid faker board in there.


Makes snese, thanks
 
Back
Top