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YoshiFab Valve Relief Tool How to

No you let the cutter drop down so just the high point of the cutter (tip of tooth) is touching piston, then you space collars .160" fo intake and .135" for exhaust and then cut down into piston.
 
ZVOLV said:
No you let the cutter drop down so just the high point of the cutter (tip of tooth) is touching piston, then you space collars .160" fo intake and .135" for exhaust and then cut down into piston.
Click to expand...

Yes, this is the correct method. This way the cutter will always cut a uniform relief of .160" or .135" into each piston, regardless of how high the piston might be at TDC.... i.e: level with the top of the block or sticking up past the block.

Also you'll find that when rotating the cutter by hand to find the start point on the piston, always choose the highest point on the cutter.
 
Well I pulled it up and measured that way. So to fix this I figure measure the depth of cut where it is the deepest and then set the collars for the extra that I need to go. No reason this shouldn't work right? I already screwed up once so want to double check.
 
cjsafski said:
Well I pulled it up and measured that way. So to fix this I figure measure the depth of cut where it is the deepest and then set the collars for the extra that I need to go. No reason this shouldn't work right? I already screwed up once so want to double check.
Click to expand...

Should work just fine.
 
WindowsBreakerG4 said:
Don't think it matters, as far as I know all this does is make reliefs so that when the piston is at TDC it doesn't hit the valves, nothing more.
Click to expand...

This might be correct too. If so, then you're good. But I don't have the 16v experience to say for sure. If you're using the original hydraulic lifters, then it's kinda hard to test your clearance by turning the motor over by hand.
 
From turning the crank it seems like it may be fine. No reason not to redo it though. I still have the tool and I am using the old headgasket and bolts just so I could mock things together.
 
Is this process for the 16 valve head situation , so the valve won,t clash with piston tops in case of timing belt failure ?? Or for high lift lobes .. ?
 
I was gonna say that too, but I saw your pics in your project thread using NO GASKET when doing the cuts. That is the CORRECT METHOD.
 
Is it possible to use this when you are using bigger valves? Or are the cutters same size as the stock valves?
 
the cutter is bigger than the stock valves, but I haven't measured it to see how much bigger.
 
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