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HUB's 1968 122s Wagon Project

Prepping Fuel Tank for Paint

Got the sway bar prepped and working on the tank.

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Thanks,
 
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Nice work. Is your filler neck loose ? I had mine re-soldered in Kentucky, only requirement was to bring them a tank that had been dipped to remove any risk of explosion from fumes. That undercoating is usually pretty thick, I bet it was no fun to remove.
 
Heat gun and putty knife was the easiest combo I found for removing undercoating. Still took a long time, but my arms and fingers weren't trashed when I was done.
 
matt b said:
Nice work. Is your filler neck loose ? I had mine re-soldered in Kentucky, only requirement was to bring them a tank that had been dipped to remove any risk of explosion from fumes. That undercoating is usually pretty thick, I bet it was no fun to remove.
Click to expand...

I'm still in the process of removing all the $*** caked on it. Haha.

Thanks,
 
Prepping Fuel Tank for Paint

Finally had time to work on the tank some more tonight.

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Thanks,
 
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The discussion about rear wagon springs got me thinking. I have heard grumblings that the IPD rear sway might be a little too stiff for the wagon. I disconnected it and the car rolled a lot more and i felt it handled better with it, but that was with stock springs and wheels. For kicks I disconnected it with the new suspension. I did not notice any additional roll, less likely to spin the the rear tire in tight corners. Front pushes a little earlier than before but still pretty balanced.

I think the combination of the stiffer springs and shocks were too much with the rear sway. Will try the 175 lb springs sans rear sway. I am guessing it will be a nice compromise.
 
carbonmike said:
The discussion about rear wagon springs got me thinking. I have heard grumblings that the IPD rear sway might be a little too stiff for the wagon. I disconnected it and the car rolled a lot more and i felt it handled better with it, but that was with stock springs and wheels. For kicks I disconnected it with the new suspension. I did not notice any additional roll, less likely to spin the the rear tire in tight corners. Front pushes a little earlier than before but still pretty balanced.

I think the combination of the stiffer springs and shocks were too much with the rear sway. Will try the 175 lb springs sans rear sway. I am guessing it will be a nice compromise.
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I don't have a rear sway bar. Don't even have a panhand bar either (will have to make something). I have no idea how it's going to handle for me and nothing to compare it too since this is my first Volvo. I will just have to drive and adjust. I know the setup will be stiffer then what it was ( a lot of worn parts).

Did your setup have poly bushings?

Thanks,
 
HUB said:
I don't have a rear sway bar. Don't even have a panhand bar either (will have to make something). I have no idea how it's going to handle for me and nothing to compare it too since this is my first Volvo. I will just have to drive and adjust. I know the setup will be stiffer then what it was ( a lot of worn parts).

Did your setup have poly bushings?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

New poly bushings. Still have not replaced the hourglass shaped axle mount bushing. I am still a little traumatised from trying to remove bolts rusted to bushing sleeves.

I like the way the wagon handles. It is no racecar but it is a ton of fun to drive in a spirited manner on twisty back roads.
 
Got the car on the ground to take measurements and see what sort of adjustments I'll need to make to the suspension. Still sitting higher than I wanted. Also, don't like the wheel gap.

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Thanks,
 
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Coming along nicely.

I see you may have the same issue I do with my wagon. Gas cap cannot keep all the gas inside the tank. I have tried the OEM seal and a variety of others. What I have that works the best is a thick neoprene washer from the hardware store. Still leaks a bit when I take hard rights with a full tank. I won't even bother to fill the tank if I don't immediately plan on burning a a bunch of fuel.
 
carbonmike said:
Coming along nicely.

I see you may have the same issue I do with my wagon. Gas cap cannot keep all the gas inside the tank. I have tried the OEM seal and a variety of others. What I have that works the best is a thick neoprene washer from the hardware store. Still leaks a bit when I take hard rights with a full tank. I won't even bother to fill the tank if I don't immediately plan on burning a a bunch of fuel.
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That and the damn low filler/non vented tank combo=BURP! I cant count how many times I have had gas attendants pay for my gas when they don't follow directions and the nozzle got burped out of the fill hole... No matter how many times you tell them "you gotta hold it, or let me pump it" they still dont listen.... Although I had a guy who worked at my favorite station who has a 65 mustang and he was the only attendant that could get the pump to shut off before the nozzle would burp out... His trick was to flip the nozzle, and use a dog biscuit to hold the lever open, he told me that was the only way to pump into a non vented tank without it blowing the nozzle out.
 
Ya' gotta move the filler position so it is above the tank. Either straight up using the same cap or mount an after market cap (I saw it on TB somewhere?) or put it inside the left tail light like I did. That's not to difficult to do actually. You have to add a vent to the tank, too!
 
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