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'84 Two fo five tarbo

woodenpudden said:
Sounds good to me. Silver Eastern Shore wagon photo shoot by the Clayton sometime?


Drove the car to work today. My ghetto CBV return tube popped off. Need to work on that - might relocate the valve.
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Sounds good to me! I need to get mine out of the garage and clean the dust off it!
 
slow240 said:
You need to come down to visit. I miss this car, plus it's a good excuse to sit around a drink beer and talk shop
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I'm down. When I get back from Norway I should have some time to stick it on the alignment rack and also get the exhaust finagled a little more firmly in place before a trip past the Great Machipongo Clam Shack, over the bay, and into your territory. Might do motor mounts, too, before any more significant mileage is accrued.
 
Speedometer ponderings

Something I want to tackle sooner rather than later is the speedo. Tempted to try to fix the cable stuff because it's mechanical and mechanical is cool.

BUT
there's an '86 that's essentially a parts car that I could pull the diff cover, tone ring, wiring, etc. from. I also have a couple spare electronic speedometers. This would also mean the eventual TrueTrac would have to have a tone ring added.

I've never poked at the cable speedo setup before, going to start at the cluster and work my way back. Is that stuff available anymore? (plastic gears, yadda)
 
How many miles on this car again? If I end up parting out this turbo wagon, would you be interested in it? I know the odometer worked by proof of DMV records!
 
If you part out that thing I'll be knocking on your door for a few items.

Just tested the speedo, it works fine. Lubed the cable, re-attached, going to test it out. I really don't want to have to replace the driven gear at the M46
 
Speedometer fix: done. Then un-done. Need to shorten the jacket.
High idle: semi-fixed. Still likes to idle high when warm, right at 750 75% of the time.
Squeaky belts: fixed. 15360 belt is the perfect length with a Denso alternator.
Boost gauge: fixed. New vac hose away from check valve, shows 10 psi at full throttle. She goes purty good. CBV ghetto-hoses are holding up very well.

Next I suppose I'll be hosing out the idle motor thingie with gum cutter. Following that, ???? Probably time to stick it on a lift and do stuff underneath/do the things that are easier with a lift.
 
Here's my spectacularly noodly intake arrangement. Yes, I snugged up that short 1" hose to the CBV inlet. Where the CBV outlet hose meets the intake again, I cut off the PCV nipple down to the base where it meets the intake tube. Snugs up nicely, has held on well for a few hours of driving now.
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Last night the voltage regulator burnt up, smelled horrible. 15 mile drive on the battery, yee haw. I have a spare Nippon-Denso in a 940 I could plunk in, or a 100A Bosch to wrestle with, or I could pull this one and see what's up. Haven't decided what I'll do just yet.
 
Weaksauce update:

- alternator smelly stank was the belt, because of wonky tensioner. Tensioner re-anchored, tightened, great success, huzzah
- Grille says "turbo" now, thanks to wonderful 3M adhesives
- Bathed the idle air valve in gum cutter. Idle is now both the correct speed AND consistent.

BUT it still stalls while cold, because the coolant temp sensor isn't doing **** (printed out the lh2.x greenbook, tested all the important components). And it still has an idle/low load misfire.

For now, I'm going to let it ride as is. Going to Norway for the next month - when I return, it's business time. Business is as follows:
- stiffer springs
- 16x8" wheels
- B230FT (already prepped and waiting patiently)
- TrueTrac
- power steering (yanked from Morley or the '86 parts car?)

Right now I'm sitting the fence between these two cam/turbo combinations:
K cam with .63 turbine/.42 compressor T3
B cam with .48/.52 T3

Both would be quite fun but probably completely different animals. Option #2 would probably be best for autocross
 
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Working on getting rid of the crappy idle and bucking on light throttle. Plugs were just fine. Replaced plugs wires cap rotor anyway, because it's cheap. Squeezed intake hose next to the AMM, it's acting right.

Chasing fuel stuff and vacuum leaks next. I can't smell anything because common cold, but Bridget did smell gas at the vacuum nipple on the FPR, so there's that. I really don't want to swap an engine before the hot rod cruise in OC, so I'm trying to make this one as well behaved as possible. It still goes right good when you mash 'er
 
woodenpudden said:
Working on getting rid of the crappy idle and bucking on light throttle. Plugs were just fine. Replaced plugs wires cap rotor anyway, because it's cheap. Squeezed intake hose next to the AMM, it's acting right.

Chasing fuel stuff and vacuum leaks next. I can't smell anything because common cold, but Bridget did smell gas at the vacuum nipple on the FPR, so there's that. I really don't want to swap an engine before the hot rod cruise in OC, so I'm trying to make this one as well behaved as possible. It still goes right good when you mash 'er
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My car has been doing the same light buck every 30 seconds or so when cruising at part throttle. Not sure what it is and it only started after I swapped to LH2.4.
 
UhAudoe said:
My car has been doing the same light buck every 30 seconds or so when cruising at part throttle. Not sure what it is and it only started after I swapped to LH2.4.
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I'm going to fart around with the throttle switch next. Did all the diagnostics from the green book, and it checks out, just might not be speaking cordially with the pedal. If I slowly let off the gas pedal it acts as if it's cutting fuel a good amount before pedal movement is complete. LH2.x is the dumb switch, not the super cool progressive throttle sensor like wot you had in 3.1

In other news: took the car to the shop for maximum lift access this weekend. Motor mounts are done. Finagling the passenger side mount is a huge pain in the ass with the oil cooler sammich plate there. I'm starting to see the light re:filter relocation. Transmission mount is still there, still tired, because the crossmember nut was too tight and we didn't have time to fire up the torch and persuade it further.

Old motor mount - not the worst I've seen but still pretty spectacularly ruined/tired. These things deform like it's their job. I've never seen another vehicle do this so reliably.
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When I started backing it off the drive-on lift it died. That was fun. Got the car back on the lift using the starter. No fuel pump action. While dad was fiddling around the main pump I decided it couldn't hurt to look at the fuse box, sure enough, a fuse popped. New fuse, car runs. Put it in reverse, it dies, blown fuse.

So the next order of business is getting it to stop blowing that 8A fuse when I put it in reverse. Bizarre new weirdness right thar. Reckon I'm going to do some digging in the shift linkage area soon. While I'm under the car, might as well replace the speedometer cable. I also scavenged the earl's oil feed and adapter plate from my B230FT for this turbo, going to replace that and get rid of what looks to be the only substantial oil leak.
 
A .22 round fits perfect to replace those pesky fuses :rofl: Also I'm going to give adjusting the TPS a try this afternoon.
 
I'd suggest the .48 turbine and the .52 compressor. Is that an '89 T3 with the wastegate swingvalve integrated into the turbine housing? Or from some non-volvo? Definitely use a volvo turbine housing for the gasketless joint.

I like the .63 when we used it on our lemons car, but that car spends most of its run time over 3000rpm. For response, the .48 will be a bit better in normal driving.
 
towerymt said:
I'd suggest the .48 turbine and the .52 compressor. Is that an '89 T3 with the wastegate swingvalve integrated into the turbine housing? Or from some non-volvo? Definitely use a volvo turbine housing for the gasketless joint.

I like the .63 when we used it on our lemons car, but that car spends most of its run time over 3000rpm. For response, the .48 will be a bit better in normal driving.
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Thanks for the input. The .48/.52 is a Volvo unit, has the nice Volvo T3 flange. I hadn't poked at the wastegate too closely, should look at that. It's also water cooled, whereas the current turbo is not. Moment of truth: I should probably exert some minor brain power toward actually understanding the airflow limits of whatever a/r and wheel trim combos I have. Or not. Cam swaps are easy enough, could just slap what I have in there and see which one feels best (A, B or K) until I get the urge to email our friends across the Atlantic.
 
Sounds like maybe the fuse block needs to be rewired. I wound up rewiring my car to 1985 specs, mainly because the only real good fuse block I could find was in an '87 at the yard. Old block was severely roached. Fuse #7 would intermittently make contact, once leaving me stranded in a parking lot before I reached down and spun the fuse only to have the car start up as if nothing happened.

-J
 
Blue245Ti said:
Sounds like maybe the fuse block needs to be rewired. I wound up rewiring my car to 1985 specs, mainly because the only real good fuse block I could find was in an '87 at the yard. Old block was severely roached. Fuse #7 would intermittently make contact, once leaving me stranded in a parking lot before I reached down and spun the fuse only to have the car start up as if nothing happened.

-J
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Yea, this one is pretty sloppy. We have an '86 sedan that is turning out to be a parts car (long story) that has a clean, tight fuse box. Dad and I were talking about it a little, and he suggested a modular fuse box.

Right now I'm going to focus on that horrible reverse switch at the top of the transmission. It was fine before we jacked up the transmission to replace the mount, so I'm suspecting the brittle old wires gave way from the excessive movement.

This is probably a big enough pile of words for now. Time for a self-imposed moar pics typing ban
 
I don't have working backup lights on my cars. I'd suggest you do what I always think about doing, and that is to extend those wires and run them under the carpet and up to a switch on the center console. The switch on the top of the trans is difficult to reach and the wires get oily and fall apart or the connector hits the chassis and it's just bad.
 
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