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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Stiggy Pop said:
they also sell thicker shifter gaskets to help isolate rattles from that area. I've been meaning to try one.
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I have been thinking of ways to isolate the shifter. I have some eBay thing with a Hurst handle, and at certain rpms I can just touch the shift knob and the sound from the trans completely changes. I have to think that a fully isolated one would be quieter and help damp some of the high frequency vibes.

I'm thinking about making something out of the stock shifter, which was floating on a rubber bushing.
 
project volvo said:
the upgraded thicker red rubber ones? i think i ran that idk why not sure it did anything, for the shifter handle and under the shifter assembly? that rectangular 4 bolt portion?
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yeah I think that's what was suggested to me at some point

Tfrasca said:
I have been thinking of ways to isolate the shifter. I have some eBay thing with a Hurst handle, and at certain rpms I can just touch the shift knob and the sound from the trans completely changes. I have to think that a fully isolated one would be quieter and help damp some of the high frequency vibes.

I'm thinking about making something out of the stock shifter, which was floating on a rubber bushing.
Click to expand...

Same, I don't really think the gearbox is noisy but I get the rattling through the shifter. I have a... Mcleod(?) short shifter and no matter what flavor of loc-tite I use the four allen screws want to get loose. I've been starting to think of a different shift setup to see if it made any kinda difference.
 
I've got an actual Hurst Billet on mine, rattle is there with or without my hand on it, and that shifter is really nice and snug internally as well. Mine seems to be internal gear noise.
 
The gears themselves definitely make the noise, but touching the shifter changes it. It doesn't silence it, but it changes the pitch and volume. The shift lever also gets really hot after an hour or so of driving. Isolating it can't hurt.

I've also noticed another weird thing that has only happened since I put this trans in. On hard pulls in 2nd and 3rd, I will sometimes smell what is very clearly ATF. I've looked all over with a flashlight and mirror and there are no leaks. The smell seems too strong to be just air coming through the vent. Really weird.
 
Took care of some nagging issues today and I'm currently loving the car. Ever since I did this swap, I haven't had a horn. I got sick of having to yell at people while they almost backed into me in parking lots, so I put some $30 horns in from Autozone and they sound great.

I had also been trying to figure out why LH was intermittently not cutting fuel on decel. Thanks to some solid advice form Gary, I found some frayed/broken wiring at the TPS connector. I suspect it had been going bad for a while, but it was only really apparent for the last week. I went to Pick n Pull today and got a new TPS pigtail - problem solved.

While I was there I was looking for some kind of OEM cooling fan that was slim enough to fit. The SPAL 14" low profile one I have wasn't moving enough air. I found one from a Honda Accord that had a nice metal shroud, and rigged it up. So far temps seem more stable, and it runs less that the SPAL did, but it was also quite cool this evening. Maybe it'll be the exact same as the SPAL, we'll see.

While driving around, I found some space to allegedly do a few donuts to try to get used to the True Trac. I really like the differential, but manual steering makes it a handful once the back steps out. My car has almost 4 turns lock to lock, and I could see 2 turns being ideal. I really need to remember that so I don't get into trouble while giving it the beans.

1Zv87Ca.jpg
 
T5 sounds utterly horrible from all the accounts in here. The only one I've seen in person on this side of the Pacific was destroyed from bearing failure. Not a common trans and it didn't look too big/beefy to me, but... whatever. CD009 will likely be my next trans.

Re turns lock to lock:

  • My turbo truck has stock worm/roller truck manual steering, 5.5 turns lock to lock, super heavy stopped, and only average lock at that.
  • My VW beetles also have worm/roller manual steering, but a very light nose, 2.5 turns lock to lock, light in the hand, and a turning circle about the same as a Volvo :-D

Yours sounds okay to me :-)

You shouldn't be trying to hold the wheel when you go sideways anyway, unless it's subtle, in the truck I can control it well with a flick of the wrist and a well timed catch. No way could you walk it around manually quick enough. Watch some drifters and you'll see them doing the same thing no matter what the lock level/rate. Geometry should take care of you.
 
Tyler's right, the steering boxes on these when paired with meaty tires lend to a VERY heavy wheel when not rolling. I've found the same on mine with 215/45's.

Glad that TPS fix worked out!

Mind throwing some pics of the fan setup in? I've gotta do a radiator in mine, been wanting to go e-fan for a while but there's virtually no room with the stock radiator.
 
I think that heavy steering with big tires is why my early Rsport steering wheel was 15". Bigger than a standard 242gt or 240 turbo type wheel. I'm pretty sure it fit late 140 early 240 series. I sold it to Ian. It's over on your side of the country now. lol.
 
gsellstr said:
Tyler's right, the steering boxes on these when paired with meaty tires lend to a VERY heavy wheel when not rolling. I've found the same on mine with 215/45's.

Glad that TPS fix worked out!

Mind throwing some pics of the fan setup in? I've gotta do a radiator in mine, been wanting to go e-fan for a while but there's virtually no room with the stock radiator.
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The fan isn't perfect, but it seems to move more air and is substantially quieter than the SPAL. I welded some quick brackets to mount it. If it ends up working better than the SPAL, I'll pull it off to clean up the shroud and powder coat it.

8ZZobp5.jpg


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It's very tight to my B23 water pump pulley. Obviously different than on your B20, and I don't have the stock radiator.

aAyECPB.jpg
 
The car is out of commission once again while I continue to chase T5 problems. I think I've made some progress with that, but I'll wait until the bell housing and adapter are back from the machine shop to be sure.

In the meantime, I bought a turbo. I went back and forth for a couple months, and ended up deciding that I couldn't spend Garrett GT money on a turbo. I ended up getting an S252 SX-E, with an AGP t3 .48 turbine housing. This turbo flows more than I need, but it uses pretty modern compressor wheel tech, and should spool ok. Especially with the .48 housing. I plan to weld (have Noah weld) a Tial 38mm wastegate onto the turbine housing and dump it back into the downpipe.

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I just looked up the specs on that turbo; 70mm turbine wheel inducer diameter is quite a bit larger than the (edit) GT2871R or GT3071R turbos you were considering. Was that intentional or a byproduct of what was available in the power range you wanted?
 
Duder said:
I just looked up the specs on that turbo; 70mm turbine wheel inducer diameter is quite a bit larger than the (edit) GT2871R or GT3071R turbos you were considering. Was that intentional or a byproduct of what was available in the power range you wanted?
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The S252 should be a 52mm inducer, 70mm exducer compressor. Which is right in the ball park of the gt3071r, right (53/71mm, if memory serves).

edit: I see you were talking about the turbine wheel. Yeah, it's bigger and I would have gotten something smaller if it was available. I'm hoping the .48 housing helps it spool faster.
 
I'm comparing turbine inducer (major diameter) which is apparently 70mm on the S252.
GT30 and GTX30 inducer diameter is 60.00mm.
 
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