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JB Weld for bodywork

Welding up the holes would be the best thing, but if you can't do that than use body filler. Body filler is designed to be primed and painted, and JB Weld isn't.
 
If you use polyester body filler or JB Weld, they will crack and fall out.

Take the car to a body shop and get them welded with a MIG welder. Then do the finish work yourself (grinding, sanding, priming, painting). You will save some money and have a permanent fix.
 
Ive looked into it with body shops and theyre hesitant to do it, because heat warp in the metal would be a problem with welding. So its not really something they can whip out in a day or two. Plus they said even after, it would need a thin layer of body filler to smooth the inperfections after grinding.

The price tag on doin it right is somewhere around 2000 dollars.
 
Just use fiber glass That's what I did to mine and it's looking good. Use a punch to make the lips of the hole bend in so you get a good surface for the fiberglass to adhear to and make sure it's bare metal and sorta ruff. Best luck to ya:rockon:
 
What Ajax5678 is good. Use a small circle of mat, or better yet, cut some mat up and fluff it up so it is individual strands. Mix it in with polyester body filler and fill. Be sure to bump the holes down first though.

If you were anywhere near Tucson, I would fill the holes for you the right way for $100-200. The danger of warpage is small because the holes are on a raised area (like a ridge). The biggest problems with warpage are in the middle of a large flat panel.

$2000 is absurd. What that price means is that they don't want to do it.
 
You could try using an epoxy. Add some of the fiberglass to strengthen it. If you can get behind the hole, try to get it down to bare metal and apply the filler there also. This will make it more of a plug. After getting the filler on both sides of the hole, put a piece of duct tape on the inside to hold it firm while smoothing it on the outside and to get any air out of the mix. I've had some good results with this method. The less that the metal flexes, the better the patch should hold.

Ed
 
Bondo blows, i will try and never use bondo except on shallow dents.

I m a boat worker and do fiberglass to fiberglass repair, but have never done FG to metal repair. I can do that myself really cheap and easy which is good because i have 78 holes to fill(all the trim is going bye) For the people that have done this, have any of you done this have any of you had anyproblems with them? ever? thanks for the good idea
 
ElPiloto said:
$2000 is absurd. What that price means is that they don't want to do it.


Not really. Think how many holes there are to fill. The shop would charge about $60/hour and that would easily take close to a day to make it look right.

I dont really blame the shop for not wanting to do it, if they warp the panel then they have to fix that and cant charge for it.

I would mig weld it myself but dont get it too hot and let it cool naturally (no water). Once its done it will look good for a long time.
 
I used JB weld to fill a couple body holes that were in my hood. It has been 2 years now and they are startig to crack from the hood being slammed all the time.

Before I started to weld, I took my car to several body shops and I was able to find one that would weld, grind and primer the wholes for $200, as long as I had the door panels and the interior pieces removed first.
 
You would really have to try hard to warp a panel. These are spot welds. You shave door handles the same way- "donuts" of metasl in decreasing sizes- spot welded in. Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld, until you have a continuous weld.

To have them welded, ground, and spot puttied, you'd be looking at some money for sure. Another option is to glue trim clips into all the holes- then cut/grind them flush and then touch up with bondo. Easy, cheap, permantent, no special tools. ;)
 
I can't see what the issue is with the panel warp, if the shop has a decent welder it will more than likely have a spot weld facility where by you can set the length of time you wish to weld, and more to that point if the guy doing it is a decent welder he'll know how to do the job with out distoring the panel.
let's face it, it's not as if he's trying to do a seemless roof chop it's just a very small trim hole.
and I agree $2000 is a "we don't really want to do the job, but if we charge silly money it'll be worth out while" kind of price.
Laters
Nick
 
Green Death said:
You would really have to try hard to warp a panel. These are spot welds. You shave door handles the same way- "donuts" of metasl in decreasing sizes- spot welded in. Spot weld, spot weld, spot weld, until you have a continuous weld.

To have them welded, ground, and spot puttied, you'd be looking at some money for sure.
do this but instead of welding braze them, its a non-structural item. brazing is like a cross between welding and soldering, get a benzomatic from home depot some coated rod, and your there, best would be to rent a oxy/acc setup, but if you practice with a benzo you can get it.
 
Bondo worked very well for me. I'll I did was take a punch to each hole just a bit, filled and sanded smooth. I sprayed sealer over the metal / bondo surface, then primed and painted (base/clear). I drove the car for next couple of years before I sold it. Never a single crack, not even in the hood or doors.
 
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