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Best fit flares for early 242

VB242

I.M. Weasel
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Location
Driving the No Malarkey Bus
Go ahead I'm ready to take the abuse, but I want/need much more rubber on the road, like 315 section width in the rear. Because autocross. I've hacked out the inner fender, hammered it up and welded it back, so the hard part is done I can just get some wheels and hack it the edge of the fender with a cutoff wheel. These remind of the one period correct pic I saw posted on a popular science or mechanics on TB.

images


Are there direct fit flares out there, maybe in the motherland?
 
Take a cut down the butt check and up over the wheel arch then you can pull the rear 1/4 out quite a bit. I pulled mine ~ 1.5 inches at the widest point which was right where the mud flap attaches. It really opens up the back of the arch which is the most constrictive point.
 
I know towery is busy these days, maybe this post will summon him.

He's got a lot of good info out there if you feel like digging for a bit, and haven't done so already.
I.E

Edit because I found the more recent post I was looking for:
It's a lot of work either way. You can move the inside or the outside. I chose to move the body outward and just mash the inner fender in as much as I could. I also ground down the flange on the trailing arm where the tire still rubbed after I hammered on the chassis.

A few pics here where I hammered and ground and then painted white so I could easily spot tire rubs and address further tire rubbage: http://www.pbase.com/towerymt/240&page=25

If you're willing to pull the quarter ~1.5", you can fit a lot of tire w/o rubbing, even when cornering.

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More information on this mod please! My fender lips are rusted and need changing.
Green = Drill out all the spot weld and separate the 1/4 panel from the car.
Blue = Solid cut along the bottom of the 1/4 panel. Wider tires will need longer cut here. Usually sufficient for 275-295's.
Red Dashes = If you are going really wide like 305+, you will most likely have to cut up to near the trim line to relieve the stress on the 1/4 panel. Warning, this looks weird in person. A small stretch to fit 275's-295's isn't bad, but above that you are really moving the 1/4 panel out quit a bit. At that point you should maybe cut the top and move it out also so it doesn't look so weird.

39773663211_a33301712c_z.jpg
 
Body work is one of the things I haven't done much of in my years. How are you guys pulling the fender? Like... physically? Are you welding tabs and pulling it? Are you doing it by hand?

Also that blue car in the OP is one of my fave Volvo's ever.
 
Perfect - thanks for taking the time to doodle that up. It may be a few years before it gets done, but it needs doing. I'll shape it up so it doesn't look weird.

Green = Drill out all the spot weld and separate the 1/4 panel from the car.
Blue = Solid cut along the bottom of the 1/4 panel. Wider tires will need longer cut here. Usually sufficient for 275-295's.
Red Dashes = If you are going really wide like 305+, you will most likely have to cut up to near the trim line to relieve the stress on the 1/4 panel. Warning, this looks weird in person. A small stretch to fit 275's-295's isn't bad, but above that you are really moving the 1/4 panel out quit a bit. At that point you should maybe cut the top and move it out also so it doesn't look so weird.

39773663211_a33301712c_z.jpg
 
Craig, you can always practice on mine first.....


EvilEvo- once the spot welds are drilled out, use a scissor jack inside the spare tire well to push on the fender to the desired location.

Jordan
 
Craig, you can always practice on mine first.....


EvilEvo- once the spot welds are drilled out, use a scissor jack inside the spare tire well to push on the fender to the desired location.

Jordan

Are you finding the spot welds on the inside or grinding or what?
 
Craig, you can always practice on mine first.....


EvilEvo- once the spot welds are drilled out, use a scissor jack inside the spare tire well to push on the fender to the desired location.

Jordan

Get it running and drive it down (gauntlet thrown...or at least casually dropped)! Mine are pretty rusty so when I cut them off and replace them, I will either find a set of front fenders and use them as flares or just do this. Either way, I'd like to be able to go to maybe 245's on this car.
 
Get it running and drive it down (gauntlet thrown...or at least casually dropped)! Mine are pretty rusty so when I cut them off and replace them, I will either find a set of front fenders and use them as flares or just do this. Either way, I'd like to be able to go to maybe 245's on this car.
245's would be really easy since you can do that with rolled fenders and perfect offset.
Here is me playing with 275's on 18x10's with front fender arches:

36352421741_ba1f1a94a6_z.jpg
 
245's would be really easy since you can do that with rolled fenders and perfect offset.
Here is me playing with 275's on 18x10's with front fender arches:

36352421741_ba1f1a94a6_z.jpg

Wish I had those wheels. I may look for something lighter than the Tethys that I have now. I just never see 240's in the JY anymore. If anyone has a set of front fenders they would cut the arches out of - I'd make it worth their while.
 
My parts car is an 87 244. I'm in Raleigh though... might be a bit of a trip to Alberta?

Not too sure how good they are anymore either. The car did good hard duty as my winter car up north before being retired. Can snap pics tomorrow. PM if interested.
 
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