2.2 with Chrysler ign>2.2 with Breakerless (+t)

Sounds like an air/boost leak to me. Double check all the connections

VB242 said:

Sounds like an air/boost leak to me. Double check all the connections

Click to expand...

I did, there are none.

Here's a video of how it responds to throttle with the 2.2 maf plugged in.
<div style="position:relative;height:0;padding-bottom:56.25%"><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tY3Vn_16hZw?ecver=2" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" style="position:absolute;width:100%;height:100%;left:0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>

I was able to drive it with the 2.4 maf today; it didn't run too well but was at least driveable.

I just moved the maf back to the stock location and re installed the iac valve in order to rule out that as the reason it wouldn't idle/rev.

So with the iac and maf installed just like they were from the factory, the car will barley idle and almost immediately die at the first sign of throttle. If I hold 100% throttle, the car sputters and backfires out the maf. Why?

Does this pretty much guarantee a bad maf?

timing off.

Hotdoggin said:

timing off.

Click to expand...

Doubtful. It runs 'good' with the lh2.4 maf, but almost not at all with the 2.2 maf.

I have not touched the timing since it's been boosted.

That being said, I guess it can't hurt to check.

Harry Tuttle said:

If you bypass the ballast resistor your points will burn up! Oh, wait... Why is there a ballast resistor on a breakerless system?

Click to expand...

I think you are thinking of the condenser on a points system. The
condenser (an old fashioned word for capacitor) absorbs the
flyback energy from the coil which prevents arcing across the
points (the arcing burns the contacts).

The ballast resistor limits current through the coil. Breakerless
has no dwell control, so if the distributor happens to stop with
a finger under the sensor, the coil will remain energized, which
leads to an overheated and ultimately failed coil or power stage.
A breakerless power stage (a big transistor, essentially), will
get quite hot if you overdwell it. Either the coil or the
ignition amplifier will fail in this situation.

The same will happen to the coil on a points system, if the
distributor stops with the points closed, your coil overheats
without the resistor.

The ballast resistor does reduce the spark energy.

When cranking, the ballast resistor is bypassed, to allow for the
hottest spark when trying to start the engine.

Breakerless is a nice upgrade from points, but spinning weights
and vacuum cans can't touch computer spark timing control.

Converting to computer mapped ignition timing was probably the
single greatest improvement I've made to my engine.

Find a wiring diagram and reproduce it. Breakerless is pretty
simple. Sometimes the ballast resistor is located near the
battery rather than the passenger strut tower.

I installed a used 2.2 maf and the car idles very very (when warm) and revs easily. It seems that somehow our original maf had failed. Still stock ignition right now, and we just installed a good used 13g to replace our blown 15g. Gotta fab up a wastegate bracket and see how it reacts to boost.