F
frpe82
Guest
I have been thinking about the EZ116K ignition ECU´s (LH2.4) for a while and I thought that this was the time to bring this up. This is interesting for many of you so please bare with me...
When it is "chipped" with my chips it gets a more ideal ignition curve to make power. The EZ117K (LH2.2) is not chippable with better maps yet, but it will be sorted in the future. The EZ117K/LH2.2 however can be statically advanced/retarded by turning the distributor as you may know. But what I am about to say may also apply to EZ117K...
Well, it would be nice to get the same possibility of statically advancing/retarding the EZ116K as well. And I beleive it is possible. All that is being said below will of course apply to all EZK´s, not only the chipped ones (even though this will have the best maps to alter) or the turbo ones. The NA EZK´s should have the same capabilities.
Why advance/retard the EZ116K timing?
* Advancing the entire map may be beneficial to power on some occations. For example when driving on high octane gas at the strip or track, when taking advantage of Somender Singh´s groove theory, and/or when you have converted to E85 (like me).
* When the EZ116K is chipped it already has a very good map for making power, but unfortunately it is not as smart as the LH2.4 ECU. It adapts a little, but not much. The map is ideal when running 91-93 octane gas but when you want to make some power and go beyond the 100 octane mark you really want to make use of it by advancing the timing, even when not under full boost.
* The option of advancing/retarding will be very beneficial when you have raised the compression or if you are using another head (16v perhaps? maybe not ideal but could be made pretty good).
* An easy way of retarding the entire map in the EZ116K may be desired when driving the car on bad gas or in very hot weather. And an easy way of advancing the entire map in the EZ116K may be desired when driving on high octane gas or other mods have been done to the engine. This is possible to do if you install a few easy accessible buttons in your car.
How to change the statical advance/retard:
* The EZ116K has 4 pins in the 25-pin connector called "selector pins" on pin 18, 19, 21 and 25.
* The EZ116K also has 2 pins that are internal analog/digital ground on pin 11 and 12. The flywheel sensor is grounded on pin 11 and the knock sensor is grounded on pin 12. They can still be used as common grounds if desired.
* By grounding one or more pins you will be able to get -6° to +12° in 3° increments.
This I know:
* By grounding pin 18 you will get -3° (retard).
* By grounding pin 19 you will get -6° (retard).
* By grounding pin 18 and 19 you will get +3° (advance).
But here is where I need some help from you guys:
* I don´t know which of the pins mentioned (or combination of pins) to ground to get the other presets...
* How much advance/retard will you get if you ground the other two pins (21 and 25) respectively?
* Is it possible to ground more than one pin at the same time to get a specific advance?
* The big question is: Which pins do what and how much to the retard/advance???
All the mentioned pins (18, 19, 21, 25) are protected so you won´t get a short-circuit if you do anything wrong.
Anyone who wants to try it out? I want to know what grounding all combinations of pins will do?
Test if grounding pin 18 and 19 respectively, and grounding pin 18 + 19 will do what I have claimed they would do?
Grounding pin 18 + 21?
Grounding pin 18 + 25?
Grounding pin 18 + 19 + 21?
Grounding pin 18 + 19 + 25?
Grounding pin 18 + 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 18 + 19 + 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 19 + 21?
Grounding pin 19 + 25?
Grounding pin 19 + 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 21?
Grounding pin 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 25?
It would really be nice to have a button on the dash where you could choose the ignition advance/retard, don´t you think?
When it is "chipped" with my chips it gets a more ideal ignition curve to make power. The EZ117K (LH2.2) is not chippable with better maps yet, but it will be sorted in the future. The EZ117K/LH2.2 however can be statically advanced/retarded by turning the distributor as you may know. But what I am about to say may also apply to EZ117K...
Well, it would be nice to get the same possibility of statically advancing/retarding the EZ116K as well. And I beleive it is possible. All that is being said below will of course apply to all EZK´s, not only the chipped ones (even though this will have the best maps to alter) or the turbo ones. The NA EZK´s should have the same capabilities.
Why advance/retard the EZ116K timing?
* Advancing the entire map may be beneficial to power on some occations. For example when driving on high octane gas at the strip or track, when taking advantage of Somender Singh´s groove theory, and/or when you have converted to E85 (like me).
* When the EZ116K is chipped it already has a very good map for making power, but unfortunately it is not as smart as the LH2.4 ECU. It adapts a little, but not much. The map is ideal when running 91-93 octane gas but when you want to make some power and go beyond the 100 octane mark you really want to make use of it by advancing the timing, even when not under full boost.
* The option of advancing/retarding will be very beneficial when you have raised the compression or if you are using another head (16v perhaps? maybe not ideal but could be made pretty good).
* An easy way of retarding the entire map in the EZ116K may be desired when driving the car on bad gas or in very hot weather. And an easy way of advancing the entire map in the EZ116K may be desired when driving on high octane gas or other mods have been done to the engine. This is possible to do if you install a few easy accessible buttons in your car.
How to change the statical advance/retard:
* The EZ116K has 4 pins in the 25-pin connector called "selector pins" on pin 18, 19, 21 and 25.
* The EZ116K also has 2 pins that are internal analog/digital ground on pin 11 and 12. The flywheel sensor is grounded on pin 11 and the knock sensor is grounded on pin 12. They can still be used as common grounds if desired.
* By grounding one or more pins you will be able to get -6° to +12° in 3° increments.
This I know:
* By grounding pin 18 you will get -3° (retard).
* By grounding pin 19 you will get -6° (retard).
* By grounding pin 18 and 19 you will get +3° (advance).
But here is where I need some help from you guys:
* I don´t know which of the pins mentioned (or combination of pins) to ground to get the other presets...
* How much advance/retard will you get if you ground the other two pins (21 and 25) respectively?
* Is it possible to ground more than one pin at the same time to get a specific advance?
* The big question is: Which pins do what and how much to the retard/advance???
All the mentioned pins (18, 19, 21, 25) are protected so you won´t get a short-circuit if you do anything wrong.
Anyone who wants to try it out? I want to know what grounding all combinations of pins will do?
Test if grounding pin 18 and 19 respectively, and grounding pin 18 + 19 will do what I have claimed they would do?
Grounding pin 18 + 21?
Grounding pin 18 + 25?
Grounding pin 18 + 19 + 21?
Grounding pin 18 + 19 + 25?
Grounding pin 18 + 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 18 + 19 + 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 19 + 21?
Grounding pin 19 + 25?
Grounding pin 19 + 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 21?
Grounding pin 21 + 25?
Grounding pin 25?
It would really be nice to have a button on the dash where you could choose the ignition advance/retard, don´t you think?
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(at least, they look the same, just gotta find out if they fit..)
