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"Abby Normal" 67' 220

Good call on that. Sweetness. I am glad it seems to be coming together. Oh and i might have just the boost gauge for you. It is from the 60's off of a commercial AC Chiller (basically a huge freon compressor) and goes from 20 on the vacuum side to like 25 on the pressure side. The best part other then that fact it looks totally old school? It's 4"! Hang on i'll take some pictures and post them
 
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Cool picture man, I have 2 little girls myself and one of my favorite pictures is of the 2 of them sitting in the front of my 242 "driving in the garage".
 
I R Srus Fabricator

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Slotted plates.
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Nuts brazed onto either end of a rod with 1/4 20' screws (would like to replace with allthread) run into them then ps straps. Needs some tack welding and a trip to the hardware store for the right stuff. but it's surprisingly solid for mock-up and retains the stock slider.
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Beaker kicking it.. Old school.
 
Make no mistakes about it ladies and gents' the paint that was on it was plain ugly. I think it might have been green at some time until someone paint brushed and rolled on some white paint. So at a distance the color was what could best be described as "green booger suspended in white phleghm".

so now we're just trying to float some paint over the rough spots and smooth it out, it looks 100% better now.

it's comin along pretty quick too, a lot faster than any of my projects. :-D
 
Setback

Wanted this post to be a picture of it in the engine bay, which is dangerously close.. But instead let's detour with engine troubles. Noticed a ton of crank walk while trying to wrestle the motor into place.

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So.. I need a new crankshaft. And to my untrained eye it looks like they just threw it in there with a ton of slop. I'll be better able to measure once I've got another crank though. ****ing Volvo.
 
He needs one for a 230ft i do believe. Sorry to hear things are fubured dude. If you need some help let me know. I am trying of a place to snag a crank shaft from. If there is anything i can do let me know.

BTW I vouch this car has a monumental amount of rust. I had gone and looked at this car about 6 or 8 months ago and yea tons of rust but he's fixed a large amount of it but there is still more. The flat black is a big improvement. When I looked at this car, I was told it had 378k on it.
 
WindowsBreakerG4 said:
BTW I vouch this car has a monumental amount of rust. I had gone and looked at this car about 6 or 8 months ago and yea tons of rust but he's fixed a large amount of it but there is still more. The flat black is a big improvement. When I looked at this car, I was told it had 378k on it.
Click to expand...

monumental means you would fall through the floorboards, this rust is superficial at best. when austen, jj and i had it on a lift we checked the frame for true, and it was only out by about an 1/8th of an inch. which is better than a lot of new cars. and no rust where it actually counts, like floorboards, rocker panels, etc.
 
hehe when i went and looked at it in MB it had a lot more rust then when you all picked it up ;) But glad to hear it is clean underneath. When are we fixing this engine eh? I want to see this car run!
 
Curious how you got it in there without wedging the oil pan on the crossmember and the head on the firewall. And how does your oil pan clear the lower A-Arm on the driver side? It's relatively obvious how you cured the issue of the bellhousing not fitting in the tunnel...

I just went through this whole exercise a week ago and those three issues convinced me to stand it up and use a B20 oil pan...
 
245gti said:
Curious how you got it in there without wedging the oil pan on the crossmember and the head on the firewall. And how does your oil pan clear the lower A-Arm on the driver side? It's relatively obvious how you cured the issue of the bellhousing not fitting in the tunnel...

I just went through this whole exercise a week ago and those three issues convinced me to stand it up and use a B20 oil pan...
Click to expand...

Once you clear up the tunnel it doesn't wedge so much. I want to do a little bracing before I finish murdering the firewall. I'd like to see if the motor can be slid far enough back to keep the stock turbo arrangement. It's not really binding on the head (until it's flat against the firewall) so much as the pan on the xmember and the bh at tunnel opening. I got it to slide in just with a little massaging with a ballpeen hammer. And going in in two pieces is no sweat But I'd rather just redo the tunnel and firewall and have something serviceable.

The biggest problem as I see it with the slanted engine is it might have to have a custom manifold to clear the upper a arm.
 
A little more progress.

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Interior's out. except for the headliner. Going to start stripping all the sound deadening this afternoon. And get it ready to start welding.

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Old and crusty..

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Meet new hotness. 3.54 locker jag rearend with 30k miles, 11.25 brake rotors. By rough measurements it looks like it needs to lose four inches.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d50/Tick0101/Picture233.jpg

edit: Oh, and I've got a good crank I need to send out to be polished.
 
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