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240 / 7mgte swap

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http://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201749
 
Wow !!!! thanks guys for the help.
I went today and removed the engine again to redo the oil pan. It does not clear the hood. I will have to recut and re weld again and add an extra bump towards the rear for more oil due to the fact that the 7mgte needs plenty of oil with the turbo and squirters and also I will possibly be cutting some of the center support as well as trimming the rack and pinion.I got some more metal scrap from work today for free to use it in the center support and the motor mounts. I gotta find out how much is the booster and if the one on the 740 fits. Another predicament is the heater core upper outlet. It is in the way o the egr valve. I might have to solder a 90 degree elbow and extend it either sideways or upwards. Gee it is a lot of work and my wife is not too happy. Again thanks a million guys or your support.
DZ
 
hi just giving an update, Ive been sick as a dog. I went around the local junkyard and got some ideas in replacing the fat tank( break booster) assembly with some thing thinner.
Just wishing you all a safe christmas
DZ
 
brickcupra said:
hi just giving an update, Ive been sick as a dog. I went around the local junkyard and got some ideas in replacing the fat tank( break booster) assembly with some thing thinner.
Just wishing you all a safe christmas
DZ
Click to expand...

I have a couple of 16V thin boosters if you ever need one.
 
Hello Poularis ,Thanks I will keep you in mind.
Happy new year guys .Finally I got to do some measurements and I might just clear the intake. I might have to cut the main support about an inch if I dont clear the hood. I got about an inch 2 play but the hood support might touch the intake.I am already recutting the oil pan to the max. My concern now is the rack and pinion. I gotta measure to see if it clears or will end up drpping it about an inch as well. For sure the sway bar is gonna have to go and use the one I pulled from the cressy. I wonder how the orange volvo has the 7mgte oil pan set up.
Ok If you guys have any idea, please sent me a reply.
TTyl.
DZ
 
more pictures

Hi , this are some more images of the motor mounts done and installed. They cleared the center support and I did not have to do anything with the rack <WHOOHOO!!!!.Can anyone send a copy of the electrical specks on the ECU for the engine?
Also the last pictures are from the pipe that connects to the heater core. Had it tigged and I gave a new coat of paint
ENJOY!!!!
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brickcupra said:
BillyMaysHere said:
get to reading:
Old info and discussion about the swap
Hi bill.im redrilling them myself.I used the rotor of a 2002 infinity and the center hole fits iperfect to make the pattern .Im using Chevy trailblazer studs complements of the local junk yard. I got one done already.
Click to expand...

What model of Infiniti did the rotor come off of? I've been pondering a switch to 5x114.3 for my 242, so this would be good info to know.
Click to expand...
 
infinity I 35 2002 front wheel drive. The rotor fits perfect in the hub and I used smaller drill bits to guide the big one. Once done I hammered the new studs complements of the local junk yard from trailbrazer. I gotta finish the rest of them as I am finishing the motor and tranny mounts. Good luck
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the first pix is the volvo hub drilled using a nissan rim as a guide to keep the studs in place. I used the lug nuts to pull them with a air gun to place.
the second pix is the rim in place. Just barely missed the strut, it cleared about 1/2 inch.
 
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Love it! Pretty easy to get power out of the 7mgte. Has some oiling issues, (shim the oil pump), has some fuel issues (j pipe back to fuel tank, is a huge restriction-on the block, and needs larger fuel pump), and they suffer from too much ignition timing in general. Of course the head is so long it has to have studs and metal gasket, really even if its not getting leaned on. That r154 is the bees knees!!! I recommend a to4e 54 trim wheel stuffed in the ct26 cartridge and clip the hot side a few degrees, gave me 373 wheel at 15psi on stock stuff(hks fcd, walbro 255, and a cheap intercooler). Great, fun, street turbo.

I look forward to reading more on this, Good luck!
 
hey!!!!

Hello haltechsupra!!! thanks for reading my blog!!!! I know bout the oil leak issues. did not know bout the oil pump. I do know bout the fuel pump, I have a Bmw one. Is a lot thicker than stock pump. I am using the return line from the Volvo. The r 154 is the best. It fitted about 95 % in the tunnel, I just need to bang the right side with a rubber mallet to clear a notch. Clutch pedal assembly still on the works with a combination of Toyota pedals from a Celica, echo, supra and cressida as in using a lilttle bit of all of them. I gotta figure out the driveshaft thing and I am wondering if the universal joint is the same size from the volvo and the r 154 due to the fact that the Volvo transmission is a jap, Aisin brand. Today I got the slave cylinder cause I was using on for a bmw but it was crappy and not centered.
I WILL BE POSTING MORE pictures soon as I am in the process of moving the Cupra to another location. Gotta be in cause I have 2 work at 5 am
Take care
DZ
 
Wow this is epic. I can only dream of doing a motor swap into my Volvo. Do you get to keep the stock air conditioning or will you need to fabricate it?
 
Stock A/C

Hey , the factory a/c went caput!!! It was already non-operational due to the rust on some of the lines and the condenser hit the fan, or the fan hit the condenser and scraped the hell of it.
I have seen the 740 a/c system and I might work something out with it. For now I am trying to get the cpu and the plumbing done, and today I got a new place where to park the brick cause where I had it was rented and I was in a rush to get a place to put it. Thank God I talk to a friend and he has a friend with an empty garage which is garage and a half with plenty of space for a 4 cab Ford f 450 and alarmed too!!!!.
Iam also finishing the lug pattern and I have the right done. The Nissan Maxima 7 spoke 17 inch wheels fit like factory in the back, no rubbing at all. I put another car inside the brick because it was almost all the parts from the cressida except the front seats and some more crap I have kept for the project. Will do more pictures as soon as I get a break. I dont have to wake up a t 4 am cause I am off Woohoo!!!'See ya!
 
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Hey Guys , I have been working on the volvo for 4 days in a row mostly on the clutch, brake pedal assembly. I got the master clutch cylinder installed and the bracket for the pedal.Also I finally got a new slave cylinder because the one I had was from a beemer and was not sitting strait. I reused the same brake line I had on the Cressida cause it has a braided spot. It was rusty so I wire wheeled and used shrink tubbing to protect it a bit from the rust.
The clutch pedal assembly took a little to make it stiff cause It is from a Toyota as well and had to cut and grind and add brackets as well as welding some extra items in the brake pedal , yes I used the brake pedal from the cressida cause it is heavy duty and required less bending with the hammer compared to the clutch pedal from the Cressida and Echo. The brake pedal has to be reworked due to the fact that ( I am listening to Sade remixes) the booster stud is longer and I had to cut some of the pedal to make it fit. I was able to reinforce it wit a piece of 1/4 steel complements of the scrap metal at work, in which also supplies the welding machine( my work station,lol). I broke the brake switch plastic tip cause I did not know the car had 2 switches. I figured that the one in the bottom was for the cruise control so I pulled it out to the side 4 now and I had switches saved from the junk yard and I had 2 from a Subaru wrx and I moved it to the bottom. Very simple and even the plugs worked with the new switch.I had to add a bracket because since the booster stud was slightly to the left, I shaved some of the pipe to center the bracket and I added the 90 degree plate to make the new switch work.Now I just need to do the gas pedal cause I don't think the Volvo pedal works 4 it , or Cant It work? It might cause almost everything fits easier that I have thought of before the project. I brought the shift assembly maybe in the hopes of rearrange it for a stick shift lever. thats another time.
Here are some more pics!!!!! enjoy. ( some might be repeats, sorry bout that )
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See ya!!!
DZ
 
Hi , just a quick note, I was able to use the same gas pedal and I converted to the Cressy combo using the gas pedal wire form the toyota. Also I am using a GM alternator to get more amps( Toyota 70/80 amps, GM 105 amps) and I custom made a bracket for adjustment. I began putting things back like the radiator support and I also cut about 3/4 inch in front of the harmonic balancer for clearance on the timing belt change. Later I will post pictures. Is 4 am here
See ya
Dz
 
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