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Porting stock B230FT head?

What would I do with the flanges though, like why is it worth it for that? I do have a pre 90 manifold and a a 90+ manifold, but it has a hole that water can pass through in it. I'd also have to get it machined flat and do a bunch of other modifications in order to get it to fit the wastegate adapter plate I have. So for me it's just deciding between the three with cost in mind for machining etc. the thing I liked about the eBay manifold was that it is through-bolt style and already machined flat saving me lots of money and effort to make it work with the adapter plate.
 
Having ported/polished and gasket matched a head I'll throw in my 2 cents...

The most important suggestion I have is to find a machine shop and do a proper head rebuild. Get a 3-position valve grind and install new valve guides. Hand lapping valves and deck is not the same as having a machine shop do it.
And if you are changing the cam, do you need heavier springs? And the springs should be shimmed to properly fit the new cam.

Headwork is the starting point. Otherwise, you could be throwing money into a motor that will cook the head.

Porting/polishing can be done with a Dremel but it is very time consuming.

There is tons of info on head porting/polishing on the web as it is a classic hot rodding modification. The techniques used on an American V-8 heads apply to a Volvo 530 head.

When you look in the head ports you can see where the crisp edges are from the factory production. Those are the most important areas to smooth out.

The intake side should NOT be polished smooth but retain a slight texture to create rough air for proper air/fuel mixture. The exhaust side should be smooth.

If you are going to the trouble of porting/polishing then gasket match, but with quality OEM gaskets.

Good luck
 
Yea I don't think I can afford to bring it to a machine shop, after all this is a super budget build so I'm doing everything myself where possible. So would you suggest gasket matching if I have to do it with a dremel? Did you see any significant performance improvements? Also if I weee to use a dremel, how time consuming would it be, like how long are we talking here? Also what bits would you use?
 
maxitoman007 said:
super budget build
Click to expand...

Super budget would be slapping that head back on and go to town. Any grinding materials are going to cost money. Once you pull the head apart you might as well do a valve job and stem seals, guides are probably good enough. Again, more money.

Just boost that thing and spend money on a cam down the road.
 
Well I already have valve lapping compound so I might as well do that. I also have a full head gasket and seal replacement set which has hushers and guides so I might as well install those. As for porting the head I'm still indecisive.
 
I literally had my head milled flat, pressure tested, dipped (to clean) and a 3 angle done for approx $200 including all gaskets end of last year.

Porting is different, but if you're talking about not having the money to put $200 into the car, put the head back on and push it into a lake.
 
Lol I think pushing it into a lake would be a bit excessive. Its just a fun budget project to learn more than anything. Honestly even if it only runs for an hour I'll be satisfied. Here's hoping it runs for longer than that though.
 
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The guy isn't a user on turbobricks as far as I know. I found the ad on my local classifieds site. I think I might start a new thread discussing my manifold problems because those are unrelated to porting, but in a nutshell, I don't know how I could use the wastegate adapter plate I have with a 90+ manifold, It would be much easier to work with a through-bolt style manifold like the pre 90 or the header. So until I find a way to use the 90+ I have (would have to get a hole repaired). I have to decide between the header which requires a lot of work apparently or the stock pre 90 manifold. Like how much of a difference in HP are we talking here? My goal is 300 is that possible using a pre 90 manifold?? Should I start a new thread discussing my manifold problems specifically, considering this thread was supposed to be about DIY head porting (still cant decide what to do, might just use my dremel and try to gasket match)?
 
maxitoman007 said:
The guy isn't a user on turbobricks as far as I know. I found the ad on my local classifieds site. I think I might start a new thread discussing my manifold problems because those are unrelated to porting, but in a nutshell, I don't know how I could use the wastegate adapter plate I have with a 90+ manifold, It would be much easier to work with a through-bolt style manifold like the pre 90 or the header. So until I find a way to use the 90+ I have (would have to get a hole repaired). I have to decide between the header which requires a lot of work apparently or the stock pre 90 manifold. Like how much of a difference in HP are we talking here? My goal is 300 is that possible using a pre 90 manifold?? Should I start a new thread discussing my manifold problems specifically, considering this thread was supposed to be about DIY head porting (still cant decide what to do, might just use my dremel and try to gasket match)?
Click to expand...

I made 300whp thru an auto with a stock b230f, stock 530 head, ipd cam, pre-90 mani, and an ebay turbo at 21psi. On LH2.4 and e85. cheap used ls9 injectors, kjet main fuel pump.

However, I've since upgraded to a ported 90+ and definitely could tell a difference. I run out of injector around 26-27psi on that setup, not sure what the power is at that point but I'm sure efficiency is dropping. The only problem the engine has had was a blown headgasket after I sold it and that guy decided to hook up a different boost controller backwards.. glad I bought it back from him.

It's not rocket science.
 
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