- Joined
- Aug 7, 2003
- Location
- San Francisco
I went at it through the gauge cluster opening. The angles made it weird. Turns out I'm just doing it wrong! Derp
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^No.
1990+ electrically laden USA SRS knee bolster model slows up the show a bit, but good wobble extension and semi-deep 13 and I can have them out in 5 mins, and then take the swivel socket once I can angle the booster toward the passenger side and zap the master out with that and snip the brake lines (junkyard).
Did you always dislike the heavy feel, or did it only become noticeable when you started driving newer cars regularly? I always liked it. When I briefly used a 960 throttle body on the yoshi adapter, it was SO light that I added an extra wind to the spring in the tb.Another thing checked off the list that has been bugging me for a while. The throttle has always been heavy from extra drag on the throttle cable. The routing combine with age wasn't doing me any favors. I bought a new Gemo cable and shortened it.
Found new barrel ends and dip soldered it on. Turned out really well and the throttle is oh so smooth and light now.
Not seen, it matches the trunk. Much shame.Your brake booster looks like crap and not worthy of this vehicle.... I think you should over-engineer a replacement ASAP.
I think more than heavy it always just felt a little sticky. Having a newer car to compare it to might have led to me noticing it more. I dunno.Did you always dislike the heavy feel, or did it only become noticeable when you started driving newer cars regularly? I always liked it. When I briefly used a 960 throttle body on the yoshi adapter, it was SO light that I added an extra wind to the spring in the tb.
Not seen, it matches the trunk. Much shame.
Hubs look great. Did they come with studs?
Yep. Bearing races were already pressed in too.
Thanks, I'll probably pick some up.
Don't you have ABS though? Just going to re use tone rings?
No ABS but I have ABS struts. Thought I might implement traction control but that's pretty low on the list.
I should probably test as well. Been having an irritating shimmy for 4 years that all new consumables have not fixed.
Now that you’ve got a new Jurbo, potentially non-hooptie boost control for a “cruise control on/fuel economy setting”, fixed cruise vac leaks and a new throttle cable, will it cruise/drive pleasantly going slow/relaxed/lazily as well as fast?
The brake rotor runout on the passenger side wheel was in
excess of 9 thou laterally. I suspected the hubs at first, replaced
those with new ones from the Volvo dealer. After hub replacement the
rotor runout on the passenger side was reduced to 6 thou TIR. TIR at the
hub flange was less than 5 tenths. Well within spec. The passenger side rotor still
had excessive lateral runout though.
I brought both front rotors in to work to be checked on the surface
plate in our QC dept. (I can show you numbers if you want) the rotors
also checked out. Within 5 tenths of each other. I put both adapters
on the surface plate. The drivers side adapter was flat within a thou.
The passenger side exhibited a distinct bend (high spot is along a
straight line across the adapter). It only rocks in one direction. I
measured 6-7 thou of displacement while rocking the adapter back and
forth on the plate.
I put the known flat adapter on the passenger side hub and the rotor
ran true. Less than a thou runout. I installed the bent adapter on the
drivers side and the runout issue in the rotor followed the adapter.
Not the rotor. I’d guess the bent adapter was taking up a good chunk
of lug clamping load and unevenly clamping the rotor, forcing it to
warp.