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"Boat", the 1992 240 Wagon

Rear axle removed,
New diff bearings, axle bearings & seals, pinion bearings & seal installed, all timken & SKF
Trutrac installed, speedo ring from Ben
Next up is a rear caliper replacement, spherical TAB install, and axle repaint, followed by STS center bearing & new U-joints
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New springs arrived in the mail: moog cc780
Ipd overloads on left for comparison. The moogs have a spring rate of 125lb/in, much closer to stock. Should ride better unloaded than the IPDs. They're 2.25" taller, so should have similar load capacities.
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This will be where the droop stops via limit straps. A good 3" or more at the axle.
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Tackling a frozen U-joint
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Had to get creative with the pinion yoke, whose outside ears are not parallel.
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Yahtzee!
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The moog springs have a wider pigtail than the volvo springs, and require reshaping. I chose to accomplish this via torch, anvil, & hammer. Sand blasted the paint off the area of impact prior.
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Before, left. After, right.
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Before
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After
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Repainted bottom coils where I had sandblasted
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Sewed some limit straps from 850 seat belts. Tex 105 should be fine
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Only had 3 anchors, so one limit strap loops around the long spacer on the shock. I added some bartacks for extra strength.
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Axle going in
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Full articulation
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rear axle !!!

Hey I've heard about the dana lock form the 740 s and 940 s fit into the 240 rear end pumpking housing, Right or wrong?
I see you lost the rear right reverse cover on the tail. I am doing a used and new tails in mine plus a million things.
Looking good in your project. Mine is coming along well after almost 12 days in a row working weekends and afternoons
Take care
DZ:rofl:
 
brickcupra said:
Hey I've heard about the dana lock form the 740 s and 940 s fit into the 240 rear end pumpking housing, Right or wrong?
I see you lost the rear right reverse cover on the tail. I am doing a used and new tails in mine plus a million things.
Looking good in your project. Mine is coming along well after almost 12 days in a row working weekends and afternoons
Take care
DZ:rofl:
Click to expand...

I think you're right, there's been several how-tos on swapping to a g80. I chose the trutrac.

I have the tail light cover, just removed it because it was loose, and needed regluing. It's back on there now.
 
Nice work. Looking forward to seeing it all properly lifted. If I could convince the Mrs. I'd ditch the Tacoma for a lifted 245 or 965.
 
Casualties so far include a sticky EGR valve (will delete soon) and frozen water supply. I didn't realize how much 8200 ft elevation affected baseline intake vacuum measurements too. Normally idles at 20 in Hg in Texas, that turns into 14 in Hg at 8200 ft. Tires inflate more too... had to let some air out to get better traction. Despite a weird whine while turning & coasting, the truetrac seems to be doing it's thing.

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Doggo is loving the snow
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Driving uphill (7% grade) @ 11,000+ ft really pushes the b230f to the limits.
Intermittent starting issue now... sometimes I'll get no response when I go to start, no click or anything. Sometimes it'll turn over, and right as it's about to catch, it stops. Seems like a failing starter to me. I've already jumped the neutral safety switch, it's not the problem. Swapped computers too, no dice. Right now the solution is just to wait, then it starts right up. Hope I don't have any chewed up flywheel teeth
 
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Added butyl dampening and fat mat to the underside of the hood. Butyl to cut down noise ( I didn't notice a difference), fatmat to keep some heat off the hood and protect the paint, and reduce noise a bit.
 
The camp spot
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Some findings at the camp spot
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Ended up turning around at this stream, not having a map and not knowing how much further the trail went. The trail was definitely side by side width, with a little evidence of jeeping. Speed was limited to about 5 mph because of the rocks and brush. Reverse gear was giving me issues too, and crossing the stream and coming to an impasse would mean having to drive in reverse across the stream which would have been bad news for the 250K aw70.
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Also had my starter (or related wiring??) give out on the way back. I measured full voltage from negative battery terminal to positive starter terminal, but only 10V from the spade connector to the negative battery terminal when trying to start the car...

Guess I have some ohm testing to do...
 
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Got a chance to knock out some little things:

Stance simulation via jack stands:

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That's about 2" added front and rear, for a total of about +2-3" front and +4" rear. Rear would be accomplished with eibach 20" long 125lb springs. Front would require Ben's coilover's. Planning on 100-125# in the front

I think I'd still have about 5" of droop in the rear and around 3-4" in the front

Also got to install a USB charger voltmeter, freeing up a gauge slot for something else

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Ipd poly bushes for stock bar with some zerks

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And another idea cooking - removing center vents in favor of two smaller ones opening a middle slot for a sixth gauge. The vents will require some trimming but seem like they'll drop right in once they're the right size. I'll have to find a good way to secure the gauge in place, but I've got some ideas :)
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PSA: if you think your car is rust-free, you're probably wrong
Found a couple tiny spots underneath the driver's & passenger's butyl damping sheets. About half the butyl damping in the car was completely brittle and not adhered to the primer. I scraped what I could up, and am contemplating heating up the rest and going ahead with removal, to be replaced with new butyl damping sheets. The brittle nature tells me that they are no longer doing their job, and boy would I love this car to be quieter. Also found one of the floor plugs had popped up... gonna be a few weeks before I get this finished

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