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5.3 + CD009 in 242

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The transmission bellhousing came in, and I got work chopping the trans up and fitting the Collins adapter kit.

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Since the stock T56 slave leaves the clutch bleeder in a terrible spot, I picked up a remote bleeder kit.

After the transmission surgery was done, the 242 was put on jack stands, front end dissembled, and the engine/trans pulled out. Side note, I forgot to drain the transmission and spilled its guts out on the driveway :oops:

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Next, the engine bay needs some love in a few spots with surface rust removal and fresh paint. After looking at Hackster's build, I might have to go for the shaved engine bay look.
 
Time for another update

I went ahead and started removing stuff from the engine bay, and gave the bay a quick pressure wash. While removing stuff, I was somewhat surprised to see the state the engine wiring was in, but the car ran good, being a K-jet B21 and all.

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Then, I took off the front bumper/clip to make room for my incredibly short Harbor Freight engine hoist. There's a phallic joke somewhere in that line.

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Next, I wanted to test fit the engine and do all the hammer work before the bay gets painted. So, I enlisted the help of my dad to use a BFH and make room for the mighty CD009. Surprisingly, only minimal bashing was needed. Then, we bolted the STS mounts to the engine, bolted on the trans (without the clutch installed), and the combo went in without much fuss.

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Here's where the end of the transmission lines up with the motor mounts adjusted to be in the forwardmost position. It looks like a plate mount or a very forward mounted shifter could work.

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Also, I will probably have to flip the steering shaft or grind the header, as they are practically touching.

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Finally, the last clearance issue is with the tall truck intake manifold. The tabs that mount the plastic "Vortec" cover need to be ground off to make the Coffin hood close, but flathoods are cool. So now I'm on the hunt for a lower profile intake manifold.
 
just buy a round steering shaft from column racing. Its the same ones that STS are selling minus up charge.
 
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That isn't a collapsible column, it's just there to add a little NVH cushioning.

The collapsing part is from the breakable aluminum u-joint s and the out-of-alignment angles on the shaft.

That's my take on it after looking at it, at least.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, but I will try to grind a little off the header first as I want to keep a collapsible steering column.
This has been covered in a few thread's, but that is an NVH mitigation piece. The collapsible part is further up. But understand. I left mine as from the factory.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, but I will try to grind a little off the header first as I want to keep a collapsible steering column.

Don't bother. I tried that at first and and realized that if grinder any farther then I did I would of grinded all the way through. I ended up moving the steering rack over to the drivers side an inch then I bought that column and all is good.
 
After taking another look at where the shaft is touching, I just went ahead and ordered the Coleman Racing steering shaft. Thanks to all of you who recommended that piece, and informed me that the OEM shaft is not the collapsible piece.
 
Progress has been slow the past few days due to heat and humidity. But, I got the dash pulled out and all of the engine bay wiring was pulled through the firewall. I need to go through the wiring and strip out all of the engine related stuff. I'll probably add a connector to the under dash wiring for main power and switched ignition to the LS ecu.

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When I got the dash out, I found out why my windshield wipers didn't work on the car, a previous owner removed the passenger side cam and linkage arm.

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This heat has made my dad and I consider sticking modern AC into the car, so we ordered a vintage air kit (Gen 2 Compac) to replace the factory heater/ac/blower motor. The unit is almost the exact same size as the Classic Auto Air unit that a few other V8 swaps have used, but is cheaper. Also got a JEGS radiator, Energy Suspension trans mount, and a few other miscellaneous parts ordered.
 
Another dash/wiring update: The blower motor/heater core is out, and the removal of all the extra wiring is 99% complete.

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I have removed the AC/blower motor relay, overdrive relay, clutch fan relay, fuel pump relay, ecu connectors, constant idle test connectors, and a bunch of wires for them. I also removed the 2 fuses for the fuel pumps and the fuse for the blower motor, as these will be replaced with new fuses and relays. The only thing I still need to figure out after looking through wiring diagrams, is a pinout of this grey 8 pin connector shown below. This is one of the two firewall connectors to the engine (the other of which was connected entirely to the ecu connectors). I found a pinout for a later model 240, but the wire colors are different. If anyone can help, that would be much appreciated.

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http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/240%20Wiring%20Diagrams/TP30414-1%201982%20240%20260%20Wiring%20Diagrams.pdf

That's for the '82 model year. I found a plug on the diagrams, page 13 if it's a b23e, that looks like it might be it, assuming it was in the engine bay and near the center top of the firewall.

That's definitely the right plug, but my car originally had a b21f in it. I've been basing most of my wiring off that manual you linked, and I can't find that plug on the b21f wiring.
 
That's definitely the right plug, but my car originally had a b21f in it. I've been basing most of my wiring off that manual you linked, and I can't find that plug on the b21f wiring.

My gut tells me that plug is for the gauges and such, should be wiring for the alt exciter wiring, and the oil pressure sensor?
 
I finally got the transmission to bolt into the car, as it was previously sitting on a jackstand. To get the trans bolted in, I modified the factory cross member. The center section was cut out and 2 pieces of angled steel were welded in. Sandwiched between the cross member and the transmission is an Energy Suspension 3.1108G trans mount. Now, I just need to clean up the welds and send the cross member off to get powder coated.

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Once that was squared away, I could pull the engine and transmission out and get to work on the engine bay. The first task was to clean up the battery tray, but the more I wire wheeled the tray, the more rust I found. I cut out the worst of it and will need to work on patching it back up. I also had my dad weld in a few bolt holes that are no longer necessary.

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Due to unforeseen rust, I picked up a trunk mount battery kit. A 200 amp fuse, terminal covers, and a new distribution block were added to complement the kit.

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I decided to mount the battery in the passenger side "butt cheek". 4 rivnuts were added along with a pair of steel L brackets to support the battery.

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I mounted the fuse on the plastic filler neck cover and added a wire post-fuse for the fuel pump relay that I will move to the trunk. The rest of the cable was run through a hole in the bottom side of the trunk/back seat divider.

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I had to enlarge the hole a little so I could add a rubber grommet to protect the wire.

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I need a new battery as the current battery is a non-vented, wet cell battery. Also, my trunk mount isn't NHRA legal because I do not have a cut off switch.
 
DocHow - I've got an 82 with an LS3 in it, Classic Auto Air A/C, battery in the passenger side butt cheek, manual transmission. I've got all the idiot lights and gauges working correctly - using the Lamda Sond light as the CEL. Completed it in the fall of '16. If I can help reach out to me via PM.

Confirm - the steering shaft is rubberized for NVH reduction - the rack is solid mounted so they had to have something to reduce noise/vibration. My car had a Ford 5.0L in it for 19 years prior to the LS. That gray 8-wire plug on mine had only 4 of the 8 slots with wire in them on the engine/Ford side of that plug...on the chassis/Volvo side my notes on wire color match your picture above perfectly. I did away with that plug completely during this swap and re-wired everything directly.

The 4 slots that were connected to something on mine matched up this way --- the yellow wire with blue stripe went to the Ford starter relay trigger connection...this fired the starter over when the ignition switch was turned to 'start'. The black wire went to the idiot light side of the oil pressure sender/sensor. The yellow wire went to the Volvo coolant temp gauge sender. The red wire went to one of the pins on the alternator -- I believe it was connected to the alternator light in the car and used to energize the alt on startup - but I never confirmed that as I had to completely alter that circuit to get a working alt light with the LS3/E38 ecu.

Keep in mind - since mine had a 5.0L in it before the LS, it's possible that those wire colors I identified above had been moved around. But since your plug matched up wire color-wise with mine, perhaps nobody moved anything on mine. On mine the other 3 wires - blue, green and orange/brown (was hard to tell the color on mine) weren't connected to anything on the engine side of the plug, so I removed them as a part of this conversion. I did a TON of wire tracing as part of the conversion -- the original Volvo ECU was still on the passenger side along with the Mustang computer. I removed every wire that wasn't connected to something. Did most of my tracing with a small 9V battery (think smoke detector) and a 12V test light. Plenty of juice to confirm continuity but not enough to hurt anything if I put voltage to something that was grounded or didn't react well to 12V+ from a big battery.

Hope that helps.
 
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