View Single Post
Old 01-13-2018, 10:08 PM   #8
Can play the blues
dl242gt's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.

Thank you, doing my best half blind. I would start at the relay under the dash. That bypasses the switch and has an always hot feed to power the headlights. If you look at the schematic goto terminal 30 at that relay. If there is no power there. You will have to work back to the fuse box to the always hot side which is fed from the power distribution. Looks like fuse six and seven. The left side of the fuses.

Now turn on the headlights with the key on. You should have power at the terminal 87 on the relay under the dash. If you don't then troubleshoot the headlight switch and power to the relay from the headlight switch. The headlight switch turns on the relay at terminal 86 where you should measure power with the switch on and ground for that is terminal 85. Make sure that ground is good because no headlights.

If terminal 86 has no power then the headlight switch or the feed to it has problems. The headlight switch gets switched power from fuse 1.

I would always start to troubleshoot at the under dash relay since that provides power for both high and low beams to the step relay when the lights are turned on. Looks like the yellow in the diagram.
You can check all this with a test light.

You can also check the step relay function by sticking the probe for the test light in terminal 31b looks like a brown wire marked BN which could also be black. lol. The one coming from the turn signal lever. It grounds the step function side to change from high to low beam and putting the probe in there gives the relay the ground through the light bulb in a test light.

Hope that is a bit more helpful.
1982 242 turbo. 340k miles. Good stuff and lots of rust.
1993 245 Classic, 420k miles, enem V15. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. sbabbs ezk chip. Been a good road warrior. Genuine Volvo rebuilt leaky M47.
dl242gt is offline   Reply With Quote