The EFI/Mopar/EZK electronic ignition cars have a ballast resistor on the top of the coil and a fatter shorter coil for lack of a better description than the old bosch breaker-less ignition 4cylinder cars. "Blue" coils cover a variety of models so it's hard to say on those exactly.
I have no clue why you'd bother to buy a new one really, they basically never ever go bad/give plenty good enough spark to work within the confines of the stock spark plug gap spec and reasonable cap & rotor service life while returning decent performance and economy and last seemingly indefinitely.
If you need more spark, likely your car is poorly setup/tuned and/or if upgrading skip distributor based spark systems entirely IMO. I'm sure someone here has a used coil or one can be sourced easily/cheaply enough without wasteful blind new part consumption/oil part waste/landfilling with very very little risk/thought/inconvenience with a picture and a part #.
Usually someone will replace them parts-cannnoning trying to diagnose something by replacing the coil which is basically never the source of non-running/spark issue malaise on these. I always get a chuckle walking past cars in the junkyard with a brand new shiny coil on them since I've replaced exactly 0 coils that went bad on their own as "normal wear and tear" /without some severe disturbance/hackery that's usually blatantly obviously apparent on ~2000 RWD cars in the last decade +.
The crank angle sensor/ignition power stage and/or chinesium/similarly terrible aftermarket Cap & Rotor or a corroded fuse box or wiring connections/beat up wiring harness on the other hand...
The car should take this one/this Bosch # coil and ballast resistor assembly (there may be a newer interchange part # IDK), but don't take my word for it:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-240-...ash=item3d5aec6887:g:dEsAAOSwjY1ak2Vx&vxp=mtr
Though used and greazy/dirty is probably a-ok 99.99% of the time in my experience for function if you don't need a shiny NOS one for 100-point numbers-matching 'restoration' of a worthless/born ugly/obscure/lowly Volvo.
Others with similar saturation times/capacities and similar ballast resistor regulated voltage would probably work "fine"/not cause any issues whatever too...YMMV...